Making that Bullet Collator

[Fil131]

Got the 223 plate Tyler posted. Will give a testing tomorrow. Also got the 223 bullet feeder done and it drops bullets but I can’t get it to only drop one at a time, like to do 2 or more. I think I need to figure where wnd what hole to use the bearings in. Anyone have experience with this?

Worst case I’ll order a DAA die...waaaaaaaaaaa

I went with the DAA dies just to be able to start reloading. Just have to make sure they “collapse” and do not stay raised when case is no longer raising the die insert, either by weight or springs as many designs have. Also helps if your press is very sturdily mounted with as little movement as possible during operation. Also if the one you are using has higher and lower levels for the bearings it’ll depend on the size or grain of projectiles you’re using.

[j_dude77]

Hate to say it but I have a 223 collator plate stuck on my hex shaft. Thinking of getting rid of hex and drilling the motor shaft.

It's not an easy chore at all to remove the collator plates when they get stuck.

I was running the motor at a very slow speed because if I run very fast at all and the LED tube fills up and a couple or few drop together they would jam up at the top of the LED tube.

I had the same problem with the hex shaft. What I had to do was turn a bit and pull up and kept doing that until it popped off.

[AmmoMike83]

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[TylerR]

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He's back!

[GWS]

Super Cool! Maybe this is a good Omen......like maybe the gun control lovers will lose in November and maybe my .223 plate will finish without issue this morning......been going all night.

I printed it without slots and with raised ribs just for testing at the small size. I did my rampless design for APP .45 sizing for others.....since I don't actually have a lead furnace for casting or sizing yet. But I do need a .223 collator bad. This one's for me.

If it works at the small size it'll work at the big size. That plate maker is amazing.....but learning OpenScad is daunting for an old guy like me....trying. Thanks AmmoMike and TylerR too for all you've done.

[lablover]

I went with the DAA dies just to be able to start reloading. Just have to make sure they “collapse” and do not stay raised when case is no longer raising the die insert, either by weight or springs as many designs have. Also helps if your press is very sturdily mounted with as little movement as possible during operation. Also if the one you are using has higher and lower levels for the bearings it’ll depend on the size or grain of projectiles you’re using.

Yea, the bearing location was the key. His model only uses the weight of the bullet column to keep it down. Might try to incorporate a spring or something. I’d love to see a model which is specific to the Tyler drop tubes.

The 223 plate worked well with the ridges, the last few bullets in the bowl still just ride the top of the plate at the bottom. The ridges do not disturb them enough to move them correctly. It’s kind of funny, the bullets look like little boats riding the wave.

[lablover]

I had the same problem with the hex shaft. What I had to do was turn a bit and pull up and kept doing that until it popped off.

I wonder why I’m not having any issues yet with the hex shaft? I wonder if it’s because I added a thin washer between the plate and bowl? I put it on the plate circling the hex hole. Raises the plate just a tiny bit.

[lablover]

Super Cool! Maybe this is a good Omen......like maybe the gun control lovers will lose in November and maybe my .223 plate will finish without issue this morning......been going all night.

I printed it without slots and with raised ribs just for testing at the small size. I did my rampless design for APP .45 sizing for others.....since I don't actually have a lead furnace for casting or sizing yet. But I do need a .223 collator bad. This one's for me.

If it works at the small size it'll work at the big size. That plate maker is amazing.....but learning OpenScad is daunting for an old guy like me....trying. Thanks AmmoMike and TylerR too for all you've done.

Small world, I got home from my pistol league last night and my 223 plate was finished. Started another and it should be done shortly. Had to try he 223 last night with the printed bullet feeder die and was very happy with the results

[GWS]

I was afraid of that. What about making an ^ shape just at the end between the holes about 20mm high and 20mm deep, sorta like a mountain chain. For mine I'm going to just do the vertical steel rod trick I did on my last green .45 nose down one for bullet sizing. Probably won't reprint my .223 for another 12 hours. Too bad I didn't know you were printing it. Oh well. At least on this one I've learned how to reduce stringing.

[lablover]

I was afraid of that. What about making an ^ shape just at the end between the holes about 20mm high and 20mm deep, sorta like a mountain chain. For mine I'm going to just do the vertical steel rod trick I did on my last green .45 nose down one for bullet sizing. Probably won't reprint my .223 for another 12 hours. Too bad I didn't know you were printing it. Oh well. At least on this one I've learned how to reduce stringing.

I like the rod trick, might do that to my 223 plate. Those slick little 223 bullets are like little torpedoes...hahahaha

All this printing I may have to get more filament. Whew

[TylerR]

Super Cool! Maybe this is a good Omen......like maybe the gun control lovers will lose in November and maybe my .223 plate will finish without issue this morning......been going all night.

I printed it without slots and with raised ribs just for testing at the small size. I did my rampless design for APP .45 sizing for others.....since I don't actually have a lead furnace for casting or sizing yet. But I do need a .223 collator bad. This one's for me.

If it works at the small size it'll work at the big size. That plate maker is amazing.....but learning OpenScad is daunting for an old guy like me....trying. Thanks AmmoMike and TylerR too for all you've done.

We can only hope! I got my fingers crossed.

So you are saying the ribs worked well for bullets?

[TylerR]

Yea, the bearing location was the key. His model only uses the weight of the bullet column to keep it down. Might try to incorporate a spring or something. I’d love to see a model which is specific to the Tyler drop tubes.

The 223 plate worked well with the ridges, the last few bullets in the bowl still just ride the top of the plate at the bottom. The ridges do not disturb them enough to move them correctly. It’s kind of funny, the bullets look like little boats riding the wave.

I can make the ribs bigger if we need to. I could also look in to adding a nub at the outside edge like one of the other guys did. That would function similar to the wire rod GWS is using. For me personally, I am not so concerned about the last few bullets hanging around. I never really run the collator completely empty anyway.

[djinnpb]

Printing the small pistol base down plate anyone tried that with 300blk brass? Wondering if it will work for that or if I need to generate one that is a touch taller.

[lablover]

I can make the ribs bigger if we need to. I could also look in to adding a nub at the outside edge like one of the other guys did. That would function similar to the wire rod GWS is using. For me personally, I am not so concerned about the last few bullets hanging around. I never really run the collator completely empty anyway.

I have the same train of thought as you do, I never run it dry and takes a few seconds to reach inside and grab em if need be. I don't know if we need to recreate the wheel

[TylerR]

Printing the small pistol base down plate anyone tried that with 300blk brass? Wondering if it will work for that or if I need to generate one that is a touch taller.

If you give me a bit I can test it.

Nope. Does not work. I think you want the plate to be about 1/3 the height of the brass. So probably 11-12mm would work. Have not tried it myself.

[GWS]

This print was a learning experience! I'm glad I printed the small one first!
I used the new PLA Pro (same as the blue stuff you guys have been raving about)
The directions that came with it suggested some things to minimize stringing....so far I've only dropped the nozzle temp from 210 to 200 and it helped alot. I used 18% infill, 4 walls, 3 top and bottom solid layers.

Below: I also decided to try "ironing".....maybe it works better on a simple flat service......it ironed before the ridges started and that ironing took 2 hours passing between each spot a ridge was going to print after the ironing! Increased printing from 12 hrs to 14 hrs....not worth it for this application. IdeaMaker's time prediction of 12 hours obviously did not consider ironing.

Below: Ironing really caused more trouble than it was worth....it messed up the clean holes which now have to be cleaned up.

Below: From a distance it looks pretty good.....

Below: Up close it's work I would not have had to do.......live and learn....now I know.


TylerR: I won't be able to test it until tonight, but from what lablover says it'll work, just not a good fast empty like my Hornady Mod.....but I'm not through... I know you don't think it's important....but it's the principle. I think the ridges might work better every other hole and instead of half moon a right triangle with the vertical going first to knock the bullets silly (or a square). I don't like trains going nowhere, nor soldiers in formation doing nothing at the bottom of my collator. We will get this.

What I do like? The rest of it....and the OpenScad file that made it.....wonderful!

One more thought......maybe the ridges if you use them at all would be better just 1 inch long around the edge and way fewer. I guess I don't see the value in moving bullets (or cases) upward to possibly have them interfere with the important stuff going on at the top....and more things to have to knock back to the bottom. I would prefer to have the bullets just agitate around the bottom. Yours thoughts?

[TylerR]

TylerR: I won't be able to test it until tonight, but from what lablover says it'll work, just not a good fast empty like my Hornady Mod.....but I'm not through... I know you don't think it's important....but it's the principle. I think the ridges might work better every other hole and instead of half moon a right triangle with the vertical going first to knock the bullets silly (or a square). I don't like trains going nowhere, nor soldiers in formation doing nothing at the bottom of my collator. We will get this.

What I do like? The rest of it....and the OpenScad file that made it.....wonderful!

One more thought......maybe the ridges if you use them at all would be better just 1 inch long around the edge and way fewer. I guess I don't see the value in moving bullets (or cases) upward to possibly have them interfere with the important stuff going on at the top....and more things to have to knock back to the bottom. I would prefer to have the bullets just agitate around the bottom. Yours thoughts?

Those ridges look very rough.

I am open to making changes. Keep in mind I created these ridges for brass feeding, not bullets. I just modeled it after my dillon plates with ridges. I could change it from a half cylinder to rectangular, and make them taller. We can definitely modify them to only come halfway up. What is the advantage of having them every other hole?

[TylerR]

TylerR: I won't be able to test it until tonight, but from what lablover says it'll work, just not a good fast empty like my Hornady Mod.....but I'm not through... I know you don't think it's important....but it's the principle.

Not sure I am following this one. Not as fast because of jamming in the top of the drop tube? Or some other reason.

[lablover]

I’ll get pics of my plate in a little bit. Aftermarket Inland pla. It was moist and sat out for awhile so also wanted to run it thru the filament dryer and see if it did better....it did. Almost pitched that roll.

I like the idea of the ridges just only a few inches long, also the shape need to not be half moon like as the bullets just swim over them. I’ll also try to do a video as I know that helps Tyler and his design mind.

I’d for sure give up on ironing! For this application it’s a no go after GWS testing. Not sure why you’re running the pla pro at 200? You getting cleaner prints? Less stringing I’m sure which is odd as I’m running it at 220 and get hardly any stringing. Maybe a retraction setting?

I love this forum I swear!

[TylerR]

I’ll get pics of my plate in a little bit. Aftermarket Inland pla. It was moist and sat out for awhile so also wanted to run it thru the filament dryer and see if it did better....it did. Almost pitched that roll.

I like the idea of the ridges just only a few inches long, also the shape need to not be half moon like as the bullets just swim over them. I’ll also try to do a video as I know that helps Tyler and his design mind.

I’d for sure give up on ironing! For this application it’s a no go after GWS testing. Not sure why you’re running the pla pro at 200? You getting cleaner prints? Less stringing I’m sure which is odd as I’m running it at 220 and get hardly any stringing. Maybe a retraction setting?

I love this forum I swear!

Yeah I was wondering that as well. For pla+ I print first layer at 220 and the rest at 210. No stringing at all.

I could do something like this: