Making that Bullet Collator

[RedlegEd]

Ed, I do like that. So this is just being used for the second part along with the center clutch piece and not a separate piece. Is this in the latest contributors files yet?
And does it just fit the 6-32 nut?

Thanks,

Jason

Hi Jason,
Yes, it just replaces the flat upper clutch retainer ring. I wanted it to still use the 6-32 - 1/2" screws & nuts, but it also works with an M4x12mm screw and nut. The "button" is just a separate flat piece that fills the center space. Totally unnecessary, but adds a nice touch. I can add them to the contributor's files. The center clutch hub remains the same, it's just the height of the top ring that changes. I can post a few different heights that should fit most of the stock plates. The button is just friction fit, and is easily popped out from the bottom.
Ed

[greekman]

if anyone is interested in my handle let me know happy to share

[yoterunner]

Hi Jason,
Yes, it just replaces the flat upper clutch retainer ring. I wanted it to still use the 6-32 - 1/2" screws & nuts, but it also works with an M4x12mm screw and nut. The "button" is just a separate flat piece that fills the center space. Totally unnecessary, but adds a nice touch. I can add them to the contributor's files. The center clutch hub remains the same, it's just the height of the top ring that changes. I can post a few different heights that should fit most of the stock plates. The button is just friction fit, and is easily popped out from the bottom.
Ed

Thanks Ed, yes I will be looking forward to using this for my taller plates.

[RedlegEd]

Thanks Ed, yes I will be looking forward to using this for my taller plates.

Hi Jason,
Ok, I uploaded the .stls to the Shared Documents folder.

[Edit] the files have been moved to the "Contributors" folder in TylerR's "Download" link.

Ed

[yoterunner]

Hi Jason,
Ok, I uploaded the .stls to the Shared Documents folder. Here's the link:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...B-?usp=sharing

Ed

Thanks again Ed.

[TylerR]

Hi Jason,
Ok, I uploaded the .stls to the Shared Documents folder. Here's the link:
Ed

Hi Ed,

First off thank you for holding the fort down here.
I moved your files to the contributors folder for anyone wanting to use them going forward.

[wrinkles]

ah ok. thank you kindly for getting me on the same page. i feel like i kind of have an idea of whats going on now. those hex couplers were a brilliant addition. the motor im using still isnt supported in terms of the bolt pattern. but i think i can get by simply drilling my own holes. Not sure how precise my shaft alignment will be but ill manage. Also im kind of curious if the main body for the version were discussing has different dimensions than what i already have. guess ill just print a few layers and see.

I had a spare motor that wasn't supported. What I ended up doing was using a .09 kydex plate to match the holes and then attach the motor to the kydex. Sort of a diy adapter plate. Been working great.

[yoterunner]

I had a spare motor that wasn't supported. What I ended up doing was using a .09 kydex plate to match the holes and then attach the motor to the kydex. Sort of a diy adapter plate. Been working great.

Good job. I have a couple of "other" motors too, but decided for now to just buy a couple of the supported ones. May need to try your method in the future for these. Pics would probably help someone out in the future.

[TylerR]

MOLD DC 457-405-F
Details

Lee Double Cavity Mold produces a .457 diameter 405 grain Flat nose bullet suitable for cartridges like 45-70 Caliber Rifle.

Click here to view parts



length 25.5mm tip to tip
length 20mm to start of rounding of nose
diameter 11.9mm

Have you tried the latest version of the .44 mag die? I believe it will probably work.

[TylerR]

I just posted a 45-70 die set. It is basically the 45 with longer body for the longer case length.

[yoterunner]

I had a question about wiring the proximity sensor with the speed controller. I do want to keep the speed set constant, so want a separate switch for power on/off. I see the wiring diagrams, but don't see the proximity diagram with the speed controller involved. I read about the importance of the relay and ordered those too. Anybody give me pointers on this? I thought that GWS had done this, but couldn't find the specifics or diagram. Thanks.

Jason

[TylerR]

I had a question about wiring the proximity sensor with the speed controller. I do want to keep the speed set constant, so want a separate switch for power on/off. I see the wiring diagrams, but don't see the proximity diagram with the speed controller involved. I read about the importance of the relay and ordered those too. Anybody give me pointers on this? I thought that GWS had done this, but couldn't find the specifics or diagram. Thanks.

Jason

Use the wiring diagram for the proximity sensor and just place the switch between the incoming 12 volt power and everything else. All of the rest of the diagram stays the same. I may redo that diagram to include a separate switch.

Here you go. This would be a 3 wire led rocker switch.

[yoterunner]

Printed a second base now, and having same issue with bullet and brass plates getting stuck on the upper Left and lower Right areas like a couple other guys have reported also. With some slight sanding I've got them to spin freely, but tonight I noticed another issue with the base(s) that may be related and looking for feedback on. I printed a slide plate and noticed there is a gap (out of square) on each of the base(s). I took pictures of both of them, with the same slide plate inserted on each of them. Pretty much the same gap on each of them. Feedback would be welcome & appreciated Do you think my printer is not printing these correctly? I think they will work once I modify slightly, but not perfectly done.

Here's the pics.

[yoterunner]

User the wiring diagram for the proximity sensor and just place the switch between the incoming 12 volt power and everything else. All of the rest of the diagram stays the same. I may redo that diagram to include a separate switch.

Here you go. This would be a 3 wire led rocker switch.

Much appreciated. Electronics not my strong suit, but I muddle through it.

Jason

[TylerR]

Printed a second base now, and having same issue with bullet and brass plates getting stuck on the upper Left and lower Right areas like a couple other guys have reported also. With some slight sanding I've got them to spin freely, but tonight I noticed another issue with the base(s) that may be related and looking for feedback on. I printed a slide plate and noticed there is a gap (out of square) on each of the base(s). I took pictures of both of them, with the same slide plate inserted on each of them. Pretty much the same gap on each of them. Feedback would be welcome & appreciated Do you think my printer is not printing these correctly? I think they will work once I modify slightly, but not perfectly done.

I am not really sure what to say. The being out of square/round is definitely not built in to the design. So that really only leaves the printer. I know there were a lot of suggestions on how to calibrate it when this came up a few pages ago.

[yoterunner]

I am not really sure what to say. The being out of square/round is definitely not built in to the design. So that really only leaves the printer. I know there were a lot of suggestions on how to calibrate it when this came up a few pages ago.

I'll have to check on that (calibrating). My prints have all been spot on except these bases. Not sure????

[TylerR]

I'll have to check on that (calibrating). My prints have all been spot on except these bases. Not sure????

The only other variable would be the slicer. The slightly out of round is one thing, but the out of square on the slot for the slide plates doesn't really make any sense. It is definitely not part of the original 3d cad or stl file.

[RedlegEd]

Printed a second base now, and having same issue with bullet and brass plates getting stuck on the upper Left and lower Right areas like a couple other guys have reported also. With some slight sanding I've got them to spin freely, but tonight I noticed another issue with the base(s) that may be related and looking for feedback on. I printed a slide plate and noticed there is a gap (out of square) on each of the base(s). I took pictures of both of them, with the same slide plate inserted on each of them. Pretty much the same gap on each of them. Feedback would be welcome & appreciated Do you think my printer is not printing these correctly? I think they will work once I modify slightly, but not perfectly done.

Here's the pics.

Hi Jason,
You said that's the same plate, so could it be your plate is slightly out of square and not the bases? I'd print another slide plate type and check, and/or use a square to verify the base you have is printed true. If you get the same gap using a different plate, then it's probably the base and might be a calibration problem. I'm using the exact same slide and base, and mine fit true.
Ed

[Titansfan2104]

Has anyone tried something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KXNZHCQ...ing=UTF8&psc=1

And replaced the start switch with the prox or microswitch while using the power switch we are using on the incoming power to the module?

[SuperMoose]

I'm back with more silly questions.

Does anyone have pictures of the entire set up (even if sectioned off like the collator w/ electronic box, spring to drop tube, etc)? My speed controller arrived today but it won't fit in the small electronic box I printed (so I'm about to start printing the large one). Sometimes visuals help me more than anything.