Making that Bullet Collator

[djinnpb]

OK, so I forget who it was, but someone posted a while back about a very unique slide plate they created for 6.5 Creedmoor bullets. I took a stab at creating it tonight, and think I have something workable. Only thing is I don't load 6.5 creedmoor, so if anyone wants to test it and report back please do. I have labeled it Slide_Feed_Nose_Up_#11. It is designed to match up with the large rifle bullet plate.

Here are pics of mine in green and the original in gray.

Attachment 271094

That me was :P But really for any long bullet. I use that on the original am base with that for the 300blk subs (247gr cast). I'm anxious to try that out. I also have some 6.5 creed so I'll test that out and give feedback. Thanks for this!

Yes! As a matter of fact, once I get it printed out I am going to test with my 230gn 300BO cast boolits.

That will work a treat. I tried all the Tom adjustable ones and could never get them to feed without that deep dip like that slide. Also now that I think about it that might be where my side tilting of the base came from in attempts to get them to drop correctly.

[noacess]

Yes! As a matter of fact, once I get it printed out I am going to test with my 230gn 300BO cast boolits.

Awesome, I'd love to see a video of that when its done!

[Falconpunch]

Shop didn't have metric bearings >< so I'll have to order. Is it the same size of bearing for all the feed inserts, 9,45,223,308? I thought I saw 2.5mm but just want to make sure.

[TylerR]

Shop didn't have metric bearings >< so I'll have to order. Is it the same size of bearing for all the feed inserts, 9,45,223,308? I thought I saw 2.5mm but just want to make sure.

3.5mm. Same for all yes.

[noacess]

Anyone using either of these motors with TylerR's feeder with success? I think they'd fit the 634JS base. I'd like to avoid gambling if I can and not have to reprint the base to use the more expensive motors

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FGWRDD2...lig_dp_it&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YBXMTWC...v_ov_lig_dp_it

[TylerR]

Anyone using either of these motors with TylerR's feeder with success? I think they'd fit the 634JS base. I'd like to avoid gambling if I can and not have to reprint the base to use the more expensive motors

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FGWRDD2...lig_dp_it&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YBXMTWC...v_ov_lig_dp_it

The second link shows the motor spec and it is the 634JS.

[lablover]

GWS

That print sure is off to a good start. Very good finish

[GWS]

GWS

That print sure is off to a good start. Very good finish

Not bad at all, except for the occasional string scar. I've tried everything to stop that....it's gotten better, but it still happens. Clueless.....I've tried lowering temp, raising temp, increasing speed between, messing with every retraction setting....nothing stops it totally. But it's strictly cosmetic......but I'm a bling all my brass with lemishine and pins in a wet tumbler kind of guy.......IOWs anal.

The quality of the walls is way smoother than my A.M. small base, which was all done at .20 high layers. I'll post another picture at the 24 hour mark. You can't hardly tell which layers are .25 or .12 or somewhere between. This variable layer height is interesting.

[Andar]

This is not directly related to the Tyler/AM design so please don't shut me down right away lol

I print with a 0.8mm nozzle and what I gain speed, I lose in precision especially for precision fitting parts like this project.

When I had a 0.4mm nozzle, I still had tolerance issues.

What are you all doing to resolve this?

Tyler, I would love to hear your thoughts since you are the 3D printing guru here :P

Check to make sure your printer is calibrated. Print off some calibration tests like the cube and measure it to make sure everything is correct. Your extruder steps could be slightly off causing over or under extrusion which will throw off the size. Make sure your belts are also tensioned properly and aren't rubbing. Check your bearings and wheels to make sure everything is moving freely and aren't forming grooves, lastly make sure the machine is square.
Lots of guides online on how to do this with specific machines. Lastly try another slicer if that doesn't solve the issues.

[lablover]

Not bad at all, except for the occasional string scar. I've tried everything to stop that....it's gotten better, but it still happens. Clueless.....I've tried lowering temp, raising temp, increasing speed between, messing with every retraction setting....nothing stops it totally. But it's strictly cosmetic......but I'm a bling all my brass with lemishine and pins in a wet tumbler kind of guy.......IOWs anal.

The quality of the walls is way smoother than my A.M. small base, which was all done at .20 high layers. I'll post another picture at the 24 hour mark. You can't hardly tell which layers are .25 or .12 or somewhere between. This variable layer height is interesting.

I want to play with that more. My .2 layer height for some reason looks terrible! Even replaced the nozzle etc. I’ve got something set wrong someplace. .12 layer height looks great. Printers almost took a shotgun blast today I swear...hahaha

I always find fresh rolls of pla always print better for me. I may have toasted the pla I had in the filament heater. Left it on for like 3 days cooking. Lol

[djinnpb]

Here is my latest addition. I added a slider to the brass feeding plate to account for rifle brass. This allows you to adjust the width of the drop hole, which is needed for different rifle calibers.

Attachment 270996

printed and a little grease as you recommend and it's perfect. All the pieces are starting to come together. Printing the 300bo plate currently.

[TylerR]

printed and a little grease as you recommend and it's perfect. All the pieces are starting to come together. Printing the 300bo plate currently.

Awesome! I did redesign the small rifle brass plates to be 6mm high instead of 8mm, but that shouldn't make a big difference. I also noticed some issue with crows feet, so I once again modified the generator to add a bottom bevel. On yours you may want to take an xacto knife to the bottom ridge if you notice any issues.

[TylerR]

I was looking at the 6.5 creedmoor/.308 stuff some more, and did a little testing with a bogus rifle plate I had. One of the issues is getting the really long bullets to fall in the vertical hole. I saw that the one on thingiverse had a custom collator plate, and I wondered if I could reproduce something similar in the generator. The concept is to spread the holes out further, and have a ridge that stops the bullet right at the far edge of the hold so it will drop in. This is what I came up with. Original in gray, mine in yellow. Adding the sliding slots is optional as always.

Looking for feedback.....

[GWS]

I want to play with that more. My .2 layer height for some reason looks terrible! Even replaced the nozzle etc. I’ve got something set wrong someplace. .12 layer height looks great. Printers almost took a shotgun blast today I swear...hahaha

I always find fresh rolls of pla always print better for me. I may have toasted the pla I had in the filament heater. Left it on for like 3 days cooking. Lol

One of the few perks for living in dry as hades New Mexico, is that I haven't had a problem with water wicking..... Thought I would a couple of months ago when I had my evaporative cooler going (cools, but puts moisture in the indoor air), but it wasn't a problem.

My print is now past the 24 hour mark (at which I took more pictures, below).

I am documenting this print closer than any other, because of the variable layer height feature I implemented. It may be a useful learning experience for you folks as well as me....to help with decisions about whether that feature is useful or not....in spite of the 6 hour? increase in print time. 39 hours is the projected length of this base print.

Here's the overall picture of the ongoing as I post, print....will it ever get done!:


I also measured the speed of wall building.....a whopping 1/8" per hour! At my age this is a trial....my patience waiting (except for death and taxes) is getting thin as get within 30 years of the century mark!


Once again look at the screen shot of how IdeaMaker handles layer height on this print, then pay attention to the visible bands in the following pictures that denote changes in layer density. (in the IdeaMaker projection, green is .20, blue is .1 or .12) :

Attachment 271166


None of the layers look that rough do they?

Notice the marks to the right of the hole....layer stops and starts? The setting is random....but it isn't that random if that's what it is.

I'm curious about the vertical lines......not those that denote flats on the .stl circles, but the ones only 1/32" apart? Just curious why?

[GWS]

I was looking at the 6.5 creedmoor/.308 stuff some more, and did a little testing with a bogus rifle plate I had. One of the issues is getting the really long bullets to fall in the vertical hole. I saw that the one on thingiverse had a custom collator plate, and I wondered if I could reproduce something similar in the generator. The concept is to spread the holes out further, and have a ridge that stops the bullet right at the far edge of the hold so it will drop in. This is what I came up with. Original in gray, mine in yellow. Adding the sliding slots is optional as always.

Looking for feedback.....

Tyler, what if you add another slide at each hole, from each hole's centerline, at a 45 degree angle from the existing slides, for which to slide bullet toward the holes and their stops from two directions. One stop being the base wall, the other stop being the raised edges you added?

[lablover]

One of the few perks for living in dry as hades New Mexico, is that I haven't had a problem with water wicking..... Thought I would a couple of months ago when I had my evaporative cooler going (cools, but puts moisture in the indoor air), but it wasn't a problem.

My print is now past the 24 hour mark (at which I took more pictures, below).

I am documenting this print closer than any other, because of the variable layer height feature I implemented. It may be a useful learning experience for you folks as well as me....to help with decisions about whether that feature is useful or not....inspite of the 6 hour? increase in print time. 39 hours is the projected length of this base print.

Heres the overall picture of the ongoing print:


I also measured the speed of wall building.....a whopping 1/8" per hour! At my age this is a trial....my patience waiting (except for death and taxes) is getting thin as get within 30 years of the century mark!


Once again look at the screen shot of how IdeaMaker handles layer height on this print, then pay attention to the visible bands in the following pictures that denote changes in layer density. (in the IdeaMaker projection, green is .20, blue is .1 or .12) :

Attachment 271166


None of the layers look that rough do they?

Notice the marks to the right of the hole....I think layer stop and starts? The setting is random....but it isn't that random.

Yea that print is looking real good. I want to like ideamaker but it’s crashed on me a few times. Then again I’m using a Mac sooooooo. I keep going back to cura but still liking the print quality in Prusa slicer. Just curious, what are you all printing drop tubes at? Layer height I mean. I did one at 2 and it sucked but good.
I think tomorrow I’ll crack ope a new spool of overture and give this one a break...lol
Also going to try the acetone on the creality bed. Just got a new plate for the ender 3 and it’s the same as yours

[Ban]

Neat stuff there guys.

[TylerR]

Tyler, what if you add another slide at each hole, from each hole's centerline, at a 45 degree angle from the existing slides, for which to slide bullet toward the holes and their stops from two directions. One stop being the base wall, the other stop being the raised edges you added?

Check this out. I think this is the ticket right here.

[GWS]

Yea that print is looking real good. I want to like ideamaker but it’s crashed on me a few times. Then again I’m using a Mac sooooooo. I keep going back to cura but still liking the print quality in Prusa slicer. Just curious, what are you all printing drop tubes at? Layer height I mean. I did one at 2 and it sucked but good.
I think tomorrow I’ll crack ope a new spool of overture and give this one a break...lol
Also going to try the acetone on the creality bed. Just got a new plate for the ender 3 and it’s the same as yours

Can't even comment on Apple (allergic to them).....but,I'd email Raise3D and ask them about it.......they responded to my email, complaining about the dark interface, and now I get to use it with a light interface.

The new Creality plate has a lot of brownish gunk on it which the acetone will take off (alcohol did too but slower). But don't worry, it worked better with it gone, IME.

My drop tubes were printed at .2. But the next one is going to be .12 all the way.....I'll just have to find a diversion while it's printing.

Check this out. I think this is the ticket right here.

Maybe, maybe..... The worst part is waiting for the plastic to print. Personally I'd be tempted to make one from wood using a drill press and a Dremel tool, and pound nails vertically behind the uprights, and glue the uprights (also wood) in front of them. .....then throw it away if it didn't work! I know wood shops, but this plastic factory is neat, slower than frozen grease...but I don't have to work....just watch impatiently or get the heck away from it.

But it's worth a try.......if too slow add the other slider trough.

[lablover]

Check this out. I think this is the ticket right here.

Dude, you are out of control! Epic work my friend