Originally Posted by Fil131
Great tip on the loctite! I also had to shorted the little lock screw as it was too long. Keep the plates, you never know. I also need to print some 223 hex plates.
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Great tip on the loctite! I also had to shorted the little lock screw as it was too long. Keep the plates, you never know. I also need to print some 223 hex plates.
Might be a good idea to source the connectors in steel or anything stronger than brass, we'll see how it goes and shortening the allen screws was easy but a PITA definitely use loctite I can't stress that enough... My press should be arriving Thursday so hopefully I'll be setup to reload by the end of the weekend. I know the RL1100 is pretty quick and easy to put together but I'll have to ready my bench and make it sturdier than it is currently. I also have to decide what to do about the overhead shelving that will be in the way of my bullet feeder and case feeder. I'm using a harbor freight wood bench for now, all of this while installing my own solar on my house... No rest for the wicked.
Which motor are you using again?
I ended up buying the McMaster because it seems to be the best. I had bought a JGY-370 but kept it in the box unused since you stated it would be underpowered for your bigger build.
Why did you have to drill the motor shaft when using the hex coupler?
The allen screws were too long and rather than find an assortment of different lengths and being that the hex adapter is brass I felt it necessary to drill at least a dimple where each screw attached to the shaft, the rest of the length I shaved down with my angle grinder so it would fit within the plate.
Maybe Tyler could incorporate a small notch in the hex plate to miss the set screw? I just ground mine down till it was flush with the brass hex coupler.
Second Tyler feeder is printed and ready to go. Gonna try the proximity sensor this time
God I love these things. Complete roll of pla gone!
Without drilling the dimple, how far our does the set screw stick out in mm?
On the round side it's more than the flat side, but I'd rather buy shorter allen screws or shave them down myself. I'm sure they(Hex adaptors) are not all created equal so I would hate to ask for the design to be modified.
TylerR
I have a request. Ive printed GWS excellent proximity sensor rig and after I was done and went to install I realized something. It's set up at the top of the feeder so it leaves a very long column of bullets in the spring etc. Would it be too much to create the same thing as GWS did but have it set on top of the DAA die like the light sensor tube does? The way it is now it wont fit on the die correctly. I really like the Proximity sensor idea and its clean. Just a thought. I know you mentioned you were also interested in his idea.
I added the option to create a slot for the screw to the plate generator.
I would have to take a look at it. The one issue is its not a one size fits all. Any tube the bullet travels thru (or more importantly stops in) has to be caliber specific for the most part. It is basically a replacement for the drop tube. Or the drop tube modified to mount the proximity sensor housing. Can you post a link to the stl files?
Hmmm, never thought of that. GWS, sent me the .stl files. Not sure how I can get them to you. Again, may not work at all now that you mention it.
Might be easier to stick with the light sensor
What size screws is everyone using for the drop hole adapter and the ramp?
Bought one of these. Decent assortment.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1001-p...use-67628.html
Not really a replacement for the drop tube, because you don't have to make one for each caliber. The reason I prefer to mount the sensor near the feeder is for that very reason. Look at all the drop tubes you have to print for different calibers for the light sensor. I don't have to touch the proximity sensor no matter what caliber I want to feed....just the bullet collator parts....maybe....and of course the feeder die on the press and the tubing that fits it. You just reduce to that. That's the easy part.
What I do, I've been doing long before I bought the 3d printer. The stl's I sent you will work for any caliber until you get past the sensor. Then you have to step it down with reduced tubing to mate with the feed die on your press.
I did this, for example, for .40 s&W:
My .40 kit.....the die and reduction tubing.
Before I marked them with labels:
another view another caliber this time .45ACP:
If these 3 pictures don't show up please let me know and I'll attach them.
Like I said this was before I found 3d printing....now instead of gluing telescoping tubes I can print those parts....but I don't have to move the poximity sensor.....it doesn't care what caliber, the way it's mounted.
TylerR, if you want any stls, dwgs or whatever, just email me and I'll send them.....or I can email RedlegEd and he can pass them on.
If you don't want them, that's okay too. Not trying to change anybody!
Last edited by GWS; 10-14-2020 at 07:38 PM.
For those wondering, I am at 95% on my long 5 day extra fine print.
If it dies tonight I will still be fine as it’s pretty much done.
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Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
Yeah, Hatch! On pins and needles waiting for the finish line! Really interested to see it. Wish you and the print well. Expecting to learn something.
BTW, do you know why my pictures posted with "[IMG][\IMG]" sometimes don't show up? Should we "attach" them instead for a reason?....again, learning.
Not really a replacement for the drop tube, because you don't have to make one for each caliber. The reason I prefer to mount the sensor near the feeder is for that very reason. Look at all the drop tubes you have to print for different calibers for the light sensor. I don't have to touch the proximity sensor no matter what caliber I want to feed....just the bullet collator parts....maybe....and of course the feeder die on the press and the tubing that fits it. You just reduce to that. That's the easy part.
What I do, I've been doing long before I bought the 3d printer. The stl's I sent you will work for any caliber until you get past the sensor. Then you have to step it down with reduced tubing to mate with the feed die on your press.
I did this, for example, for .40 s&W:
My .40 kit.....the die and reduction tubing.
Before I marked them with labels:
another view another caliber this time .45ACP:
If these 3 pictures don't show up please let me know and I'll attach them.
Like I said this was before I found 3d printing....now instead of gluing telescoping tubes I can print those parts....but I don't have to move the poximity sensor.....it doesn't care what caliber, the way it's mounted.
TylerR, if you want any stls, dwgs or whatever, just email me and I'll send them.....or I can email RedlegEd and he can pass them on.
If you don't want them, that's okay too. Not trying to change anybody!
Totally get it. I like it. Time to hit fusion and make some adapters. Thanks a million sir
I love the idea of the fewest parts possible. That is definitely the goal. And I love seeing new ideas and people designing new stuff!Not really a replacement for the drop tube, because you don't have to make one for each caliber. The reason I prefer to mount the sensor near the feeder is for that very reason. Look at all the drop tubes you have to print for different calibers for the light sensor. I don't have to touch the proximity sensor no matter what caliber I want to feed....just the bullet collator parts....maybe....and of course the feeder die on the press and the tubing that fits it. You just reduce to that. That's the easy part.
another view another caliber this time .45ACP:
I am not sure I completely agree the sensor set up you have working for all calibers. Looking at the picture, if you were try to feed .223 rifle bullets in to that wide tube at the sensor would they not stack side by side and block feeding to whatever eventually is reducing it down to .22? Bullets just passing through a tube that is too wide is not such an issue, but if they are stopping in that tube things get clogged up. That is ultimately why there is a smaller feed spring and a drop tube that reduces down to the correct caliber (or close enough), whether is .45 or .22.
Unless I am missing something, which happens more and more the older I get. lol
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