Making that Bullet Collator

[Caster3845]

Tyler,
I am not sure how to upload a video. The above pic is what I have modified so far. That is the #8 BND slide plate. As you can see I had to make the upright post thhicker to keep the bullet from falling forward into the hole and jamming the feeder. I also had to cut a groove into the plate in an attempt to catch the edge of the base so the bullet would flip nose down. If that groove is not there the bullet just drops down and catches on the high part of the plate and gets pulled out of the collator plate. Then after 5 or six, they just fall on the floor.
I started reading this thread from the beginning about a week ago. I can't believe how much information is posted here and how much work you and AmmoMike and everybody else has put into this. It is really appreciated not only by myself but by everybody else that is making use of you guys's genius.
I tried to get the hang of Fusion 360 but quickly got lost. To many things to remember at the advanced age of 73. My head doesn't work like it used to.
I went down the rabbit hole several months ago and purchased an AnkerMake 5. Sweet printer! It took just a little under 9 hours to print the main base, while I'm hearing that some of the printers are taking 30 to 40 hours to print the same thing. My standard speed is 250. When I measured the 20mm calibration cube that I printed, the only axis that was off was the Z axis and it was only off by .01 mm, so I called it good to go.

[TylerR]

Tyler,
I am not sure how to upload a video. The above pic is what I have modified so far. That is the #8 BND slide plate. As you can see I had to make the upright post thhicker to keep the bullet from falling forward into the hole and jamming the feeder. I also had to cut a groove into the plate in an attempt to catch the edge of the base so the bullet would flip nose down. If that groove is not there the bullet just drops down and catches on the high part of the plate and gets pulled out of the collator plate. Then after 5 or six, they just fall on the floor.
I started reading this thread from the beginning about a week ago. I can't believe how much information is posted here and how much work you and AmmoMike and everybody else has put into this. It is really appreciated not only by myself but by everybody else that is making use of you guys's genius.
I tried to get the hang of Fusion 360 but quickly got lost. To many things to remember at the advanced age of 73. My head doesn't work like it used to.
I went down the rabbit hole several months ago and purchased an AnkerMake 5. Sweet printer! It took just a little under 9 hours to print the main base, while I'm hearing that some of the printers are taking 30 to 40 hours to print the same thing. My standard speed is 250. When I measured the 20mm calibration cube that I printed, the only axis that was off was the Z axis and it was only off by .01 mm, so I called it good to go.

pm sent

[TylerR]

I got your videos and the issue is clear to me. not nearly enough angle on the feeder. you have to tip it back a lot more.

Also, you should start with a fresh print of the slide plate. The material that was removed is not going to allow the bullet to flip. Also, you might want to try going down a number slide plate to get more ridge for them to ride on.

Here are links to the two videos:
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/w2sqi...nodu7ia3p&dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/1lzl4...vtlsfd0rs&dl=0

[JStuhlmiller]

I am in need of a brass collater for a rollsizer I just ordered. I was thinking about making a Mongo collater but what would the recommendation be for motor?

[Gillie Dog]

TylerR,

I am trying to determine the difference between the Drop Hole Adapter; Angled, Angled Slide and Angled Body.

Looks like angled and angled slide are same with mounting holes such that they "point" 45 degrees to slope of collator and the angled body with its mounting holes "points" inline with slope of collator.

What is the difference between them?

Thanks

GD

[TylerR]

I am in need of a brass collater for a rollsizer I just ordered. I was thinking about making a Mongo collater but what would the recommendation be for motor?

Either 634JS or the ETZGMP38 will work.

[TylerR]

TylerR,

I am trying to determine the difference between the Drop Hole Adapter; Angled, Angled Slide and Angled Body.

Looks like angled and angled slide are same with mounting holes such that they "point" 45 degrees to slope of collator and the angled body with its mounting holes "points" inline with slope of collator.

What is the difference between them?

Thanks

GD

The hole patterns are different on the main body and on the bullet nose down slide plates, so there is one for each.

[Gillie Dog]

The hole patterns are different on the main body and on the bullet nose down slide plates, so there is one for each.

Thank you,

I have never looked at a nose down bullet slide plate to catch that.

GD

[TylerR]

Thank you,

I have never looked at a nose down bullet slide plate to catch that.

GD

The angled drop hole is nice if you are running the collator at very steep angles and you want to limit the bend on the spring. otherwise not necessary.

[Gillie Dog]

The angled drop hole is nice if you are running the collator at very steep angles and you want to limit the bend on the spring. otherwise not necessary.

Understood, printing one now even though I run not that steep on bullet collator, it will come close to making spring vertical.

Many thanks, I very much appreciate and am amazed at all you have done here.

GD

[GWS]

......I very much appreciate and am amazed at all you have done here.

GD

You and all the rest of us....... I wouldn't even have a 3D printer if not for TylerR's efforts here. If an old fart like me can follow his pioneering vision and direction anybody can.

[Caster3845]

I spent most of the day trying everything from shallow to steep angles and moving the plate in and out to get that H&G 130 bullet to feed nose down for the Star Sizer and it's just not going to feed. I tried a fresh print of the #8 BND slide plate and the #8BND slide plate that I modified came closest to working like it should if I kept the angle shallow(15 degrees or so). If I raised the angle much past 30 degrees , the bullets would do nothing except go around and around. I had to keep the shim on the upright post or the bullet would just fall forward into the hole and jam things up. I also tried different slide plates from #5 BND to #10 BND.
I feel like I'm missing something or doing something wrong.

[JStuhlmiller]

before I go off the rails is anyone using the mongo collater for brass?

[TylerR]

before I go off the rails is anyone using the mongo collater for brass?

Yes, I am.

[HuskJ]

Did you ever get this to work Lablover?

[GWS]

Did you ever get this to work Lablover?

Haven't heard from Lablover here since August last year........miss his posts.....hope he's well......

[TylerR]

Haven't heard from Lablover here since August last year........miss his posts.....hope he's well......

Yes, it's been a long time. Always enjoyed his posts.

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !
Just me that is getting an hole inner diameter of +27 mm of the Mount_Post_Base.stl, and thus getting a rather loose fit on a 25 mm pole ?

[Gillie Dog]

Dear Team !
Just me that is getting an hole inner diameter of +27 mm of the Mount_Post_Base.stl, and thus getting a rather loose fit on a 25 mm pole ?

It measures 28mm in the stl file so what you are getting looks about right. The pole I use is about 26.8MM (3/4" pipe) and seems to work fine with clamp screw just finger tight.

GD

[rogerandre]

It measures 28mm in the stl file so what you are getting looks about right. The pole I use is about 26.8MM (3/4" pipe) and seems to work fine with clamp screw just finger tight.

GD

Thanks alot. I thought that a 1" pipe (25.4 mm) was to be used. I will go figure to remove the wobble.