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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #581
    Boolit Buddy
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    You may need to setup the center of your print bed. The best solution is to upgrade to Marlin Firmware and then center your printer bed in the Firmware configuration files. But, upgrading the newer Anet A8 1.5 boards can be difficult.

    I don’t know of any center/offset settings in the Anet Firmware but you can definitely add center/offset commands in your slicing software (Cura). In Cura the settings are in the same area you set your printer type. Just print a centering target (lots of these on Thingiverse) and measure how far off the center of the bed your currently printing.

  2. #582
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    If the part moved on the table, that’s not a program(ing) problem but a bed issue.

    If it started out in the wrong place and you had it in the right place before slicing, I imagine you have a configuration problem and Cura thinks you have a larger bed than you do.

    I would double check the configuration and likely print a tiny simple part in the center and see where it actually prints. If nothing else I could tell where Cura thinks the center of my bed is.

  3. #583
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    Here is an update for anyone following my earlier issue.

    I did small part position tests, and it appears to be related to the position in Cura. I have the bed X&Y size 220mm. But for some reason I have to put the part at -28,-28 in Cura, in order to get it to print on the center of my actual bed...

    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #584
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lakehouse2012 View Post
    Here is an update for anyone following my earlier issue.

    I did small part position tests, and it appears to be related to the position in Cura. I have the bed X&Y size 220mm. But for some reason I have to put the part at -28,-28 in Cura, in order to get it to print on the center of my actual bed...

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Change your machine settings to your print bed size.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Or use finished profiles like this:
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2442909
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  5. #585
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoMike83 View Post
    Change your machine settings to your print bed size.
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	220803

    Or use finished profiles like this:
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2442909
    I'm not following you Mike. The actual bed measures 220×220, why would I use 300x300?

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  6. #586
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lakehouse2012 View Post
    I'm not following you Mike. The actual bed measures 220×220, why would I use 300x300?

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    That are the default values for the CR-10S. If you use them with 300x300 mm bed, it will move you object in the upper left corner during print. Change that to 220x220 and use that cura profile.

    clear now?
    Last edited by AmmoMike83; 05-22-2018 at 09:19 AM.
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  7. #587
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lakehouse2012 View Post
    I'm not following you Mike. The actual bed measures 220×220, why would I use 300x300?

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    https://4noobs.de/viewtopic.php?t=101
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  8. #588
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoMike83 View Post
    It appears I have a different issue... When I setup the machine All Home wasn't working. Diagnosing, it appeared that switching the X & Y limit switches on the MB, got me to printing. However, now I'm noticing that Cura is rotating 90 degrees from where I thought I was setting parts on center. I have the tub at 54% right now, so can't verify until tomorrow night, but appears that I have more wires crossed than just the switches, maybe motors need to move as well?.....

  9. #589
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lakehouse2012 View Post
    It appears I have a different issue... When I setup the machine All Home wasn't working. Diagnosing, it appeared that switching the X & Y limit switches on the MB, got me to printing. However, now I'm noticing that Cura is rotating 90 degrees from where I thought I was setting parts on center. I have the tub at 54% right now, so can't verify until tomorrow night, but appears that I have more wires crossed than just the switches, maybe motors need to move as well?.....
    Interesting that switching the x and y limit switches helped initially as they’re identical limit switches. Sounds like you may very well have your X and Y stepper motors reversed though. It’s easy enough to swap those connectors on the motherboard once your print finishes.

  10. #590
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    You NAILED is razorfish! I returned limit switchs to factory position, but the stepper motors were wrong from the factory. I traced the wires back to each motor and verified the label on the board, they were wrong. I ran a small print and now it's right on center of the bed, my problem of part positioning on the board goes away!!!

    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by razorfish View Post
    Interesting that switching the x and y limit switches helped initially as they’re identical limit switches. Sounds like you may very well have your X and Y stepper motors reversed though. It’s easy enough to swap those connectors on the motherboard once your print finishes.

  11. #591
    Boolit Mold
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    I'm curious about the spring connectors to the main body, there are large and small ones. I assume the sizes listed are for the diameter of the bullet. Also noted on the drop tubes. Question is, does the inner size matter as much on the spring connector at the top or is there more of a chance of the bullet flipping before it drops into the spring?

  12. #592
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwwright View Post
    I'm curious about the spring connectors to the main body, there are large and small ones. I assume the sizes listed are for the diameter of the bullet. Also noted on the drop tubes. Question is, does the inner size matter as much on the spring connector at the top or is there more of a chance of the bullet flipping before it drops into the spring?
    large = large spring (pistol calibers)
    small = small spring (rifle calibers)
    It's just the cone that changes, not the spring connectors. They are always identical. Same with the drop tubes. It's just the INNER tube, that changes.
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  13. #593
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    Ok, thanks. I'm still chugging along on this. I did end up ordering the springs for MBF, much more flexible than the spring benders and I'll need the extra length that they can provide too. Tonight I was printing up an enclosure for the PWM and light/relay. Hopefully I can get it all running this weekend.

  14. #594
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    Question about base turning plates do you have to use different ones for different bullets and do you have to adjust it in and out until it is consistently turning the bullets or just push it all the way flush? Also I think I have come up with a solid mounting idea for Dillon 650 users and I will share with pics once POC is working.
    Last edited by shep; 05-30-2018 at 06:37 PM.

  15. #595
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    Yes, you need the “wheel” to fit the biker you are collating because it does need to consistently pace the tip of the bullets in the same spot in the arc and yes you need to adjust the part that drags the tip of the bullet outward, if it’s nose down (and you are going for base down), so it catches the tip of the bullet to drag it outward but will let a base down bullet pass by.

  16. #596
    Boolit Mold
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    Do you recommend small spring or large spring for 9mm ammo? Also I assume match in ID with the bullet diameter and then choose appropriate one with the spring you use. Meaning use bf_v2_drop_tube_light_barrier_id9mm_small_spring for 9mm with the small spring.

  17. #597
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    Quote Originally Posted by shep View Post
    Do you recommend small spring or large spring for 9mm ammo? Also I assume match in ID with the bullet diameter and then choose appropriate one with the spring you use. Meaning use bf_v2_drop_tube_light_barrier_id9mm_small_spring for 9mm with the small spring.
    No. Small spring is for rifle bullets. Large for pistol bullets. And 9mm =.355 = 9,017mm -> id10mm drop tube with BIG spring.
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  18. #598
    Boolit Bub
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    unless you're doing very small 9mm or 380 bullets use the large spring for pistol. I have to use the small spring for anything under 100 grains or the bullets are able to flip end over end in the large spring. Thankfully I only use one that small, a 95gr bullet and it is by far the hardest to get to flip reliably and drop trouble free.

  19. #599
    Boolit Bub
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    What are people using to pin the shaft of the motor for the uxcell? I have gone through a bunch of bits and can’t get a good straight hole through the shaft with my drill press. I have tried titanium and cobalt bits and best I got was a hole offcenter as the bit kept wandering.

    I also bought an aluminum rod and couldn’t get the bits to drill that straight either.

    Any help would be appreciated, I am getting really frustrated with this last piece.

    The plate I have has a 10mm diameter and all the brass couplers I am finding on Amazon and EBay are 11.5. I am thinking about drilling out to the shell plate rather than fight with this anymore.
    Last edited by r4ndy; 06-05-2018 at 08:43 PM.

  20. #600
    Boolit Master
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    To not wonder around, you may want to give a tungsten end mill. They have no point like a regular drill bit, but they will cut on the tip, just not as quickly as a drill bit does.

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
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