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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #461
    Boolit Buddy J. DIEGO's Avatar
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    No companion I'll stick with the companion of Mike It is more versatile!
    Best regards

  2. #462
    Took a trip to Microcenter ... Had been hearing good things about their Inland PLA's ... prints nice and good prices - so I decided to give it a go. Their blue is MUCH closer to Dillon Blue fyi 0 than I have come across in person. Im printing extrusion calibration cubes and such atm for this filament. Will report back if the color post printing is better match and how she goes ...

    Anyone using their stuff for any of this ?

  3. #463
    Spent yesterday printing calibration cubes and other random stuff to get a feel for the printer as it sits now. The collator bottom plate/main body whatever its called is 12% completed. Gonna take about 40 hrs according to Cura. I slowed the print and movement speed down a tad.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #464
    well scratch that. Had tape lift and a jammed nozzle. Time to make some changes.

  5. #465
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    OK, which die are you guys using for this? Sounds like most are trying to keep from buying Mr. Bs, so what else will work?

  6. #466
    Quote Originally Posted by shibbykins View Post
    well scratch that. Had tape lift and a jammed nozzle. Time to make some changes.
    Boooohhhh ... Sorry man thats a bummer! Ive never printed on tape before.

    What material are you printing ?

    Have you tried PEI sheets to print on - im loving them. Looking forward to trying out the BuildTac FlexPlate System - just need to yank this PEI sheet off and glue the magnetic surface plate down to the heatbed. I have a few of the BuildTac flex sheets ... buildtac on one side - PEI on the other and I will have one that will have PrintBite and PEI on opposing sides.

  7. #467
    Gave up on the Inland PLA for now - blue wasnt close enough match to Dillon Blue make it worth the headache... I couldnt get it to stick first layer across the whole bed - it was just too fussy ... Tried a lot of calibrations - and they seemed to work good - but I couldnt get it to work across the entire bed for 1st layer smackdown. Hatchbox just worked 1st go ...


    Click image for larger version. 

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    Back to the Hatchbox PLA - printing real nice just hope I have enough.

    This is the new design .stl

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  8. #468
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    I'm posting here, couldn't decide which thread, but as this isn't machine specific, I thought it would be best here. Caviot, I've limited experience, and might be missing a setup point, but I'm using Repetier-host to connect USB to my printer. Inside it can use various slicers. Cura was the default and works pretty well. SLIC3R is another option. I've tried several prints with SLIC3R and have never gotten a really nice print. Even with fine settings, there are all sorts of strings bleeds and poor handling of bridging. Yep, I've got a layer fan and Cura bridges just fine as long as I don't speed too fast. I did two back to back and using 0.3 and 10% fill, the Cura was decent, the SLIC3R even taking twice as long, looked like garbage. So if you are having issues and using SLIC3R, try a different slicer.

    Sent from my KFAUWI using Tapatalk

  9. #469
    Quote Originally Posted by Handloader109 View Post
    I'm posting here, couldn't decide which thread, but as this isn't machine specific, I thought it would be best here. Caviot, I've limited experience, and might be missing a setup point, but I'm using Repetier-host to connect USB to my printer. Inside it can use various slicers. Cura was the default and works pretty well. SLIC3R is another option. I've tried several prints with SLIC3R and have never gotten a really nice print. Even with fine settings, there are all sorts of strings bleeds and poor handling of bridging. Yep, I've got a layer fan and Cura bridges just fine as long as I don't speed too fast. I did two back to back and using 0.3 and 10% fill, the Cura was decent, the SLIC3R even taking twice as long, looked like garbage. So if you are having issues and using SLIC3R, try a different slicer.

    Sent from my KFAUWI using Tapatalk
    r u using Inland PLA filament ? Thx for the heads up - Ive used Cura. Its pretty nice but it doesnt play well with my PC ... either of them - it smashes my video drivers and crashes on layer by layer preview - which I like ot use alot.

    This issues is not Slic3r - as i merely just dropped the hatchbox spool on the hook and and re sliced - with the working profile I have for Hatchbox PLA and it worked first go.

    I struggled with Slic3r ... the main fork - but the Prusa Edition has been rockin for me across a handfull of filaments Slic3r PE [ prusa edition ] works great for prusa i3 clones too which mine essentially is.

    .3 layer height ? Good to know - may give that a whirl - contrary to some of the early posts I read in this thread ... smaller / higher resolution layer heights do not always equate to better strength ... typical rule of thumb - taller layer height like .3 would have better layer bonding and strength - just not as much resolution and details as .1 or .15

    Im getting 8.5 hrs print time at .25 layer heights with Slic3r PE

  10. #470
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    Quote Originally Posted by InfringedNSocal View Post
    r u using Inland PLA filament ? Thx for the heads up - Ive used Cura. Its pretty nice but it doesnt play well with my PC ... either of them - it smashes my video drivers and crashes on layer by layer preview - which I like ot use alot.

    This issues is not Slic3r - as i merely just dropped the hatchbox spool on the hook and and re sliced - with the working profile I have for Hatchbox PLA and it worked first go.

    I struggled with Slic3r ... the main fork - but the Prusa Edition has been rockin for me across a handfull of filaments Slic3r PE [ prusa edition ] works great for prusa i3 clones too which mine essentially is.

    .3 layer height ? Good to know - may give that a whirl - contrary to some of the early posts I read in this thread ... smaller / higher resolution layer heights do not always equate to better strength ... typical rule of thumb - taller layer height like .3 would have better layer bonding and strength - just not as much resolution and details as .1 or .15

    Im getting 8.5 hrs print time at .25 layer heights with Slic3r PE
    I've used several brands but not inland. Material that came with machine was pretty bad, no clogging but not great prints. Using cheap century off ebay works OK, solutech off Amazon has been really good. I've got a couple of rolls coming from maker geek, supposedly good, but customer service and shipping is terrible. Stock is not real time. This is pretty bad in this day...

    Sent from my KFAUWI using Tapatalk

  11. #471
    Boolit Master jmorris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by InfringedNSocal View Post
    Gave up on the Inland PLA for now - blue wasnt close enough match to Dillon Blue make it worth the headache... I couldnt get it to stick first layer across the whole bed - it was just too fussy ... Tried a lot of calibrations - and they seemed to work good - but I couldnt get it to work across the entire bed for 1st layer smackdown. Hatchbox just worked 1st go ...
    I would be interested in how that one works. What is that, 20% infill?

  12. #472
    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    I would be interested in how that one works. What is that, 20% infill?
    .25 layer height
    5 Perimeters
    5 Bottom Layers - rectilinear
    6 Top Layers - rectilinear
    25% Infill - Grid pattern
    215 C / 65 Bed
    80 mm/s w/ exterior perims @ 50%
    Top Layer @ 40 mm/s
    infil @ 80 mm/s

  13. #473
    AmmoMike ...

    Thanks man ... this new model is printing really nice - I really like the modified design. That chamfer on the bottom perimeter is sweet too.

    Attachment 218641

    Cant seem to get that lettering tho' ... You guys getting that nice and clean ?

    Might be cool to make it easier to get good clean lettering - perhaps change font / size ?

  14. #474
    Finished - 9 hrs 31 minutes ... Plenty of filament left for a few other key parts too - woot woot

  15. #475
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by InfringedNSocal View Post
    AmmoMike ...

    Thanks man ... this new model is printing really nice - I really like the modified design. That chamfer on the bottom perimeter is sweet too.

    Attachment 218641

    Cant seem to get that lettering tho' ... You guys getting that nice and clean ?

    Might be cool to make it easier to get good clean lettering - perhaps change font / size ?
    These letters?


    Sarcasm: the ability to insult idiots without them realize it.

  16. #476
    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoMike83 View Post
    These letters?


    Ummm ... yeah them - LOL ... Showoff - LOL

    What are your settings and materials ? Thats a gorgeous lookin print sir ...

  17. #477
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by InfringedNSocal View Post
    Ummm ... yeah them - LOL ... Showoff - LOL

    What are your settings and materials ? Thats a gorgeous lookin print sir ...
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Material is "Ultimaker Black PLA"
    Sarcasm: the ability to insult idiots without them realize it.

  18. #478
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    Quote Originally Posted by InfringedNSocal View Post
    Boooohhhh ... Sorry man thats a bummer! Ive never printed on tape before.

    What material are you printing ?

    Have you tried PEI sheets to print on - im loving them. Looking forward to trying out the BuildTac FlexPlate System - just need to yank this PEI sheet off and glue the magnetic surface plate down to the heatbed. I have a few of the BuildTac flex sheets ... buildtac on one side - PEI on the other and I will have one that will have PrintBite and PEI on opposing sides.
    Well, after printing a pile of stuff successfully, I started the 9mm plate. Two tries and two lifts after 3 layers....just before getting to infill. Ok, added 10mm brimmmmm. And trying again.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

  19. #479
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    Quote Originally Posted by Handloader109 View Post
    Well, after printing a pile of stuff successfully, I started the 9mm plate. Two tries and two lifts after 3 layers....just before getting to infill. Ok, added 10mm brimmmmm. And trying again.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
    Material? Bed type? bed temp?
    Sarcasm: the ability to insult idiots without them realize it.

  20. #480
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoMike83 View Post
    Material? Bed type? bed temp?
    Glass just cleaned, heated, and hair spray. Light coat, little more second time, more for third. Solutech pla. 205 nozzle, bed 45 degrees. Yep, I have had zero lift running as low as 30. And two and 6 inch high parts. Finishing second layer now. Brim filled in center hole dang it, but nothing is moving yet. I've used half a spool of their black and about half of this spool so far. No problems..... I'm watching for a while, had glob on nozzle after first incident. I stopped 2nd.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check