Anyone tried printing this with a bigger nozzle (.6mm .8mm etc)? Can anyone see any issues with that?
|
   
   
|
|
Anyone tried printing this with a bigger nozzle (.6mm .8mm etc)? Can anyone see any issues with that?
Been out of the game due to training, but does anyone have any suggestions as to which switch to purchase? I'm gonna be assembling mine for 9mm and 40 here in the next week or so.
For the drop tubes? I recommend using the light barriers ones and these two items:Originally Posted by Followme438
GERI 12V Light Control Switch The Photoresistor Plus Relay Module The Light Detection Switch Photosensitive Sensor
LAOMAO 1 Pack (20 Bulbs) 5mm 12V DC White LED Pre-Wired Round Top Bulb Lamp For DIY Car Boat Toys Parties (5mm, White)
It's working well in my initial testing using MBF motor setup. If you need any help let me know and I'll try to help as much as I can. It has been trial and error for me trying to assemble this thing, as I am not getting much response or feedback here or on Thingiverse.
Is anyone selling the 3d printed parts to assemble a bullet collator? I don't have a 3-d printer but would like to assemble a 9mm bullet feeder for my Dillon 650XL.
I guess I'm late to the party but I just started building the bullet feeder. I just completed printing the 9mm collator plate. Took over 18 hours. I used .16 height, and 80% fill. What settings is everyone using to get acceptable products in less time?
Yeah I'm also late to the party, and was having some challenges mounting the motor shaft to the collator plate. I am using the JGY-370 12V 10RPM Motor. Has anybody here used that motor to successfully turn the collator plate? I'm not 100% how I can mount the plate to the shaft without needing to weld something to the shaft to turn the plate. Quite stumped here....
I have the same question. In looking at a number of YouTube videos it appears that the drive for the collator plate is just a cross pin through the shaft. So the collator plate slides on the bottom of the bowl. There is a 3d printed driver for the JGY-370 motor on Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3202207) but I have not printed it to see how well it works.
Well I printed the drive device for the 370 motor. It seems to fit well and has a shoulder to raise the collator plate off the bottom of the bowl. Not knowing the torque available from the motor or the torque load from the bullets I can't comment on how well it will work long term. If this fails I'll machine something from brass that is more robust. FYI the thread down the center of the motor shaft is M3 X 0.5.
Well sad to report the printer collator plate driver failed right below where the wing connects to the shaft. The shaft is hollow at this point. A small tweak to the CAD model would fix this.
Does the collator plate ride on the bottom of the bullet feeder case or is there a spacer on the motor drive shaft that spaces it above the case? In looking at the MBF motor there does not appear to be a shoulder for the collator plate to ride on above the case bottom.
You get everything figured out?
I had a buddy of mine print everything for me, and for the mounting method I have the bf_v2_mount_hang_cf_side and the corresponding bf_side.
How are you guys attaching these? At first glance I assumed a bolt all the way through (coaxial to the round mating surface) but the hole isn't drilled through. Are you using a 3/8" diameter threaded rod about an 1.5" long, and then 4x set screws on each piece to pinch the rod?
Good luck getting a reply here. This whole thread is just plain dead.
Seems that way. Is there anywhere better on the web you know of? I haven't found anywhere.
NO this is pretty much the only thread I've ever seen. There are so many mount and motor combos, that finding someone that has used your specific setup is gonna be hard. You might try some of the facebook Dillon and Hornady groups. These 3d printed bullet feeders pop up now and then.
The easiest solution I’ve found is to just use the mrbulletfeeder motor. I also use their switch.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
SAME. For the price it's awesome. But you can't forget reloaders are some of the cheapest people on earth and if there was a way to hook up that old Ford 390 in the backyard to the Bullet Feeder they would be crying for an adapter.
Just in case anyone else is googling for an answer, I used a threaded M10 rod cut to length to join the sides of the variable mount. One side printed out tight enough that I could tap it to M10 and thread the rod into it, and the other side was a tight press fit so I secured it with some set screws. I had to cut down the inside leg of the casefeeder side mount to work with the Dillon casefeeder.
As of today, Mike's Design of this on Thingverse has been taken down
This is sad news, wonder if its because of threat of copyright infringement or he was just overwhelmed with all the updates and requests....
Unfortunately for MB, if its copyright, it wont slow down an individual from being creative, im sure there are 100s if not 1000s of Mikes files on computers all over the world...
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Posting Permissions
| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |
Reply With Quote
Lakehouse2012