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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #4241
    Boolit Master GWS's Avatar
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    Question to Anuccite and Ed on color changing:

    So I understand the pause and change to a point. Retracting too. But on a normal print beginning, after changing to a new roll, there is a transition that the initial purge line and skirt take care of unless the part is really small. Meaning, for example changing from white to red, you get a little pink for a bit.....

    So in the case of changing color midstream, there is no purge line nor skirt......so do you just hand push the filament until the color is pure?....then press continue? Or am I missing something?

  2. #4242
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    Question to Anuccite and Ed on color changing:

    So I understand the pause and change to a point. Retracting too. But on a normal print beginning, after changing to a new roll, there is a transition that the initial purge line and skirt take care of unless the part is really small. Meaning, for example changing from white to red, you get a little pink for a bit.....

    So in the case of changing color midstream, there is no purge line nor skirt......so do you just hand push the filament until the color is pure?....then press continue? Or am I missing something?
    My change color script, actually purged WAY more than necessary..... there was no color bleed...

    after the retraction, I pulled the filament the rest of the way out.... replaced it like I always do, till it was coming out with the new color.... Then I hit the continue button.... and it purged even more... next color, I just put the new color in, and got it to nozzle, and let the auto purge do it's thing

    EDIT: it moves the head away from product to do the purge as well

  3. #4243
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    Question to Anuccite and Ed on color changing:

    So I understand the pause and change to a point. Retracting too. But on a normal print beginning, after changing to a new roll, there is a transition that the initial purge line and skirt take care of unless the part is really small. Meaning, for example changing from white to red, you get a little pink for a bit.....

    So in the case of changing color midstream, there is no purge line nor skirt......so do you just hand push the filament until the color is pure?....then press continue? Or am I missing something?
    Hi GWS,
    I'm sure there is a little bleed over, but it's insignificant. Even with the small buttons, I really couldn't tell if there was color bleed. If you are concerned, you can certainly push the new filament by hand to purge. My advice would be try it on something smaller using relatively distinct/different colors and see if you have an acceptable result. If nothing else, it's a cool tool to have in your box.
    Ed
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    Growing old is mandatory, growing up is totally optional!

  4. #4244
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anuccite View Post
    My change color script, actually purged WAY more than necessary..... there was no color bleed...

    after the retraction, I pulled the filament the rest of the way out.... replaced it like I always do, till it was coming out with the new color.... Then I hit the continue button.... and it purged even more... next color, I just put the new color in, and got it to nozzle, and let the auto purge do it's thing

    EDIT: it moves the head away from product to do the purge as well
    Autopurge? In the script, right? Can you list the commands in the script?.....I'm using another slicer so would have to create my own.

  5. #4245
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    Autopurge? In the script, right? Can you list the commands in the script?.....I'm using another slicer so would have to create my own.
    It's a post process script.... I'm not sure how to get you the commands it's actually using (as they don't list them)

  6. #4246
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    Autopurge? In the script, right? Can you list the commands in the script?.....I'm using another slicer so would have to create my own.
    If you guys were doing the Marlin updates manually you would have this option on your screen. You would pause the printer then replace filament, that's where you can purge until the color you want comes out. Once that is completed you can then resume the print.

    I recently purchased and Ender 5 Pro and kept everything stock, well I added the glass bed that comes with it and mounted a bltouch. Then I did away with the stock firmware and upgraded to all the latest Marlin updates. Once updated I saw that option to pause and replace the filament, had to do it once and it works pretty good. Creality disables too many of the advanced features and they are very far behind in updates.

  7. #4247
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    Quote Originally Posted by stanford View Post
    If you guys were doing the Marlin updates manually you would have this option on your screen. You would pause the printer then replace filament, that's where you can purge until the color you want comes out. Once that is completed you can then resume the print.

    I recently purchased and Ender 5 Pro and kept everything stock, well I added the glass bed that comes with it and mounted a bltouch. Then I did away with the stock firmware and upgraded to all the latest Marlin updates. Once updated I saw that option to pause and replace the filament, had to do it once and it works pretty good. Creality disables too many of the advanced features and they are very far behind in updates.
    I have a Ender 5 on stock firmware from about a year ago. I have the option to change filament mid print. I have never used it for color changes, but I have used it to replace a roll that was running out. Has always worked great for me.

  8. #4248
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    Quote Originally Posted by stanford View Post
    If you guys were doing the Marlin updates manually you would have this option on your screen. You would pause the printer then replace filament, that's where you can purge until the color you want comes out. Once that is completed you can then resume the print.

    I recently purchased and Ender 5 Pro and kept everything stock, well I added the glass bed that comes with it and mounted a bltouch. Then I did away with the stock firmware and upgraded to all the latest Marlin updates. Once updated I saw that option to pause and replace the filament, had to do it once and it works pretty good. Creality disables too many of the advanced features and they are very far behind in updates.
    I use Th3D's EZABL Pro bed leveler on my CR10 V2 and so am using their Marlin-based firmware. I'll have to see if there is an update. I love the bed leveler, and I've seen an option to pause, but never equated that to changing filament colors midstream, only to do as Tyler just posted....replenishment. Guess I'll post a question or two there.

    However, if their firmware doesn't have the autopurge as part of the pause, I love the autoleveler enough to purge by hand. Pause is enough if it comes to that.

    Anuther "however"..... I have yet to find an itch strong enough to change colors in a print, but I do like having the option if I ever want it.
    Last edited by GWS; 03-04-2021 at 10:07 AM.

  9. #4249
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    All the videos that were linked in the user manual are gone ��

  10. #4250
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    Quote Originally Posted by Titansfan2104 View Post
    All the videos that were linked in the user manual are gone ��
    They have been moved. Grab the latest version.

  11. #4251
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    I use Th3D's EZABL Pro bed leveler on my CR10 V2 and so am using their Marlin-based firmware. I'll have to see if there is an update. I love the bed leveler, and I've seen an option to pause, but never equated that to changing filament colors midstream, only to do as Tyler just posted....replenishment. Guess I'll post a question or two there.

    However, if their firmware doesn't have the autopurge as part of the pause, I love the autoleveler enough to purge by hand. Pause is enough if it comes to that.

    Anuther "however"..... I have yet to find an itch strong enough to change colors in a print, but I do like having the option if I ever want it.
    I used to use the TH3D when I first started out, but once I got brave enough enough I started messing with marlin myself. There are some things that he didn't turn on (maybe to protect the user). Tyler will have no issues messing with marlin since he is a coder, pretty much just two files to mess with and a ton of #defines which is easy. I really like everything about the Ender5, I will probably give my cr10s away and get an ender 5 plus.

    I mentioned the smart filament sensor before, with this sensor you can use all your scrap filament and once the sensor doesn't detect any filament it will park and you can insert your choice of color. I do this from time to time because I haven't found a dual extruder that I really like.

  12. #4252
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    i have a tronxy xy-2 and just got an anycubic chiron the xy2 was my workhorse after fiddling with it for a bout a month getting it dialed in for the last 2 years it has run flawless just got the chiron but after tighting all the screws and putting a better fan duct it is doing well just bit the bullet and bought the tronxy s5a-400 kit will be putzing with that for a couple weeks i bet but will be nice once i get it worked in

  13. #4253
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    Quote Originally Posted by greekman View Post
    i have a tronxy xy-2 and just got an anycubic chiron the xy2 was my workhorse after fiddling with it for a bout a month getting it dialed in for the last 2 years it has run flawless just got the chiron but after tighting all the screws and putting a better fan duct it is doing well just bit the bullet and bought the tronxy s5a-400 kit will be putzing with that for a couple weeks i bet but will be nice once i get it worked in
    Most interesting....had to go look up this brand that I'd never heard of before.....great prices to be sure. I'd enjoy experimenting with a second printer......but I don't think my wife will give up her side of our combined hobby room....her sewing/quilting machine space.....

    On the Clutch Lids.....

    TylerR just posted my 2nd improved version lid/cover below his signature under contributors........Now you have two choices. He posted Ed's fancy one a few days ago. Maybe if you beg he'll get Ed to add the cannon cover to it. No separate cover on mine.....one piece plain Jane.

    Attachment 279266Attachment 279267

    One small caveat, see the little red cylinder-like glob in the back of the following picture? Support under the handle....but it's trivial...a flick of my finger and it landed over there.... way better than the old handle pictured....as you can see.


    Love this TylerR #11 plate! I ended up cutting my 1-1/4" long machine screws off a little with an electrician's stripper with a bolt shear, since this picture.
    Last edited by GWS; 03-09-2021 at 05:28 PM.

  14. #4254
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    On the Clutch Lids.....

    TylerR just posted my 2nd improved version lid/cover below his signature under contributors........Now you have two choices. He posted Ed's fancy one a few days ago. Maybe if you beg he'll get Ed to add the cannon cover to it. No separate cover on mine.....one piece plain jane.
    GWS, I am definitely going to print and use your handles. I was messing with the machine over the weekend and boy is it hard to get the plates in and out without a handle. The tolerances are so tight that the entire setup has to be right in front of you in order to get the plate up and out.

  15. #4255
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    is there a file to download this

  16. #4256
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    Go to a TylerR post.
    Click on "Downloads" at the bottom of his post.
    Click on "Contributors"
    Click on either GWS clutch handle.stl or RedlegEd clutch ring zip file
    So I finally bit the bullet and came up with my own collator plate handle. As I tend to do, I have taken great ideas from both my friends Ed and GWS. It is very much like GWS's with one exception. You have the option to connect it using the main screws that are part of the clutch, or you can just use a couple of machine screws separately. Also, being a divergent like my friend GWS, mine is designed to be printed on its side. Like this:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	handle.png 
Views:	26 
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ID:	279025

    The clutches themselves have been modified to have pre-drilled holes that line up for the machine screws.
    Last edited by TylerR; 03-05-2021 at 01:09 PM.

  17. #4257
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    New design is out there. I did not increment the release #

  18. #4258
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    So I finally bit the bullet and came up with my own collator plate handle. As I tend to do, I have taken great ideas from both my friends Ed and GWS. It is very much like GWS's with one exception. You have the option to connect it using the main screws that are part of the clutch, or you can just use a couple of machine screws separately. Also, being a divergent like my friend GWS, mine is designed to be printed on its side. Like this:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	handle.png 
Views:	26 
Size:	99.2 KB 
ID:	279025

    The clutches themselves have been modified to have pre-drilled holes that line up for the machine screws.
    I need a raise lol

  19. #4259
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by o416 View Post
    I need a raise lol
    Haha. Just tell em to slap it on and screw it down. lol

  20. #4260
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    Haha. Just tell em to slap it on and screw it down. lol
    GWS already convinced me to make a minor change, so don't do anything yet.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check