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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #4221
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperMoose View Post
    I'm back with more silly questions.

    Does anyone have pictures of the entire set up (even if sectioned off like the collator w/ electronic box, spring to drop tube, etc)? My speed controller arrived today but it won't fit in the small electronic box I printed (so I'm about to start printing the large one). Sometimes visuals help me more than anything.
    The download itself has an images folder that has basically what you are looking for.

  2. #4222
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    The download itself has an images folder that has basically what you are looking for.
    Ah ha!

    Thank you Tyler!

    ETA: One other question. On the switch drop tubes, how difficult would it be to modify the STL to put the distance between the openings on the side (for where the screw go) to 9mm center to center? That's what mine measure.
    Last edited by SuperMoose; 02-28-2021 at 02:44 PM.

  3. #4223
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperMoose View Post
    Ah ha!

    Thank you Tyler!

    ETA: One other question. On the switch drop tubes, how difficult would it be to modify the STL to put the distance between the openings on the side (for where the screw go) to 9mm center to center? That's what mine measure.
    Those were provided by Andar. I do not have the source files for them.
    Last edited by TylerR; 02-28-2021 at 05:22 PM.

  4. #4224
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    Quote Originally Posted by Titansfan2104 View Post
    Has anyone tried something like this
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KXNZHCQ...ing=UTF8&psc=1

    And replaced the start switch with the prox or microswitch while using the power switch we are using on the incoming power to the module?
    I’ve used that PWM speed control on my annealing machine, I have a spare that I planned on testing on the bullet feeder.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #4225
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    Tri Color...

    I am experimenting with "pause at level" in cura.....

    This will be my "merica" case feeder when it's complete.....

    I was worried the change over was going to mess with something..... But it went flawless!

    Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #4226
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anuccite View Post
    I am experimenting with "pause at level" in cura.....

    This will be my "merica" case feeder when it's complete.....

    I was worried the change over was going to mess with something..... But it went flawless!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hi,
    You can also use "Filament Change" script in the same Post Processing Scripts extension, and it works very well. I think the main difference is the Filament Change script sends commands to the printer to pause, then retract the filament, and signal you to feed in the new filament. It's what I used to add the gold cannons to my hub button.
    Ed

    Click image for larger version. 

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    ______________________________________________
    Growing old is mandatory, growing up is totally optional!

  7. #4227
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedlegEd View Post
    Hi,
    You can also use "Filament Change" script in the same Post Processing Scripts extension, and it works very well. I think the main difference is the Filament Change script sends commands to the printer to pause, then retract the filament, and signal you to feed in the new filament. It's what I used to add the gold cannons to my hub button.
    Ed
    I do love those buttons Ed. really nice touch.

  8. #4228
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedlegEd View Post
    Hi,
    You can also use "Filament Change" script in the same Post Processing Scripts extension, and it works very well. I think the main difference is the Filament Change script sends commands to the printer to pause, then retract the filament, and signal you to feed in the new filament. It's what I used to add the gold cannons to my hub button.
    Ed

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Actually, I think that is the option I picked.....

    Final Product

    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #4229
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anuccite View Post
    Actually, I think that is the option I picked.....

    Final Product

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Beautiful!!! That really came out nice...great job!
    Ed
    ______________________________________________
    Growing old is mandatory, growing up is totally optional!

  10. #4230
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    Awesome Tyler off to the 3d printer will report back

  11. #4231
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anuccite View Post
    Actually, I think that is the option I picked.....

    Final Product
    That is a work of art.

  12. #4232
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anuccite View Post
    Actually, I think that is the option I picked.....

    Final Product

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Very great turnout, I can see that being handy in a lot of prints.

  13. #4233
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    Quote Originally Posted by TylerR View Post
    Use the wiring diagram for the proximity sensor and just place the switch between the incoming 12 volt power and everything else. All of the rest of the diagram stays the same. I may redo that diagram to include a separate switch.

    Here you go. This would be a 3 wire led rocker switch.
    Attachment 278682
    I hate asking a question I know has been talked about, but for the life of me, I cannot find where this was discussed. I think there has been discussion about the significance of the size of the wire (thin/thick) in the wiring diagrams. Are the thin wires feeders off of the main wire?? I couldn't find that discussion and want to make sure of getting wired correctly. Any additional insight would be appreciated.

  14. #4234
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    Quote Originally Posted by yoterunner View Post
    I hate asking a question I know has been talked about, but for the life of me, I cannot find where this was discussed. I think there has been discussion about the significance of the size of the wire (thin/thick) in the wiring diagrams. Are the thin wires feeders off of the main wire?? I couldn't find that discussion and want to make sure of getting wired correctly. Any additional insight would be appreciated.
    The thinner lines in the diagram would be fine with 24 gauge wire. 18-20 gauge is a good choice for the thicker ones. If you were to describe the diagram in simple terms. Everything can be grounded directly to the incoming 12 volt negative. The relay and the motor are two exceptions. The relay ground in comes from the proximity sensor signal wire. The motor ground comes from the speed controller. Then just follow the flow of the red positive wires and you should be good to go.
    Last edited by TylerR; 03-02-2021 at 09:37 PM.

  15. #4235
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    Nice design of the handle GWS, I do like that the plate closes everything off. Couple of good options for folks to choose from.

  16. #4236
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GWS View Post
    Not as flashy as RedlegEd's center piece, but I promised someone who asked for the .stl that I was upgrading my plate handle to be more versatile and less plate specific.....and better all around.

    I pleased myself at least.......here's some pictures and a video to show what I have done. I don't have a clue how to add it to the database without sending it to Tyler first, but give it a see....

    Sorry for the miss-centered footage and the challenged hand dexterity....I've deteriorated a bit since youth... But I think it gets the method across. Notice the last shots where the tightness was tweaked....it only required turning the screwdriver at the bottom, since the square nuts don't move and the top Nyloc only turns in place as long as I keep the socket away.....which is the point. I used 6-32 hardware. Machine screws 1-1/8" long would be better than my 1-1/4", but that's what I have and it's works for me.

    Better than my original, and works equally well with no additional parts for any plate thickness. Does not overlap the plate, and the bigger finger pull helps.

    The .stl is available if anyone wants it.
    Looks great GWS. I still have yet to come up with my own thing, so between you and Ed people have some good options to choose from now.

  17. #4237
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    Thanks Tyler, then I take it the positive wire from the sensor goes to the positive IN on the relay? Looks like small red (+) wire gets lost in the diagram on the big red (+) wire running from switch to Relay out +. Is that right?

    Sorry to have to have it spelled out so much!

  18. #4238
    Boolit Master TylerR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yoterunner View Post
    Thanks Tyler, then I take it the positive wire from the sensor goes to the positive IN on the relay? Looks like small red (+) wire gets lost in the diagram on the big red (+) wire running from switch to Relay out +. Is that right?

    Sorry to have to have it spelled out so much!
    No. And I don't claim to be the best at creating wiring diagrams. Let me try to break it down.

    From the 12 volt power source:
    -Negative(ground) will go to the switch negative, sensor negative (blue wire), and speed controller negative-in.
    -Positive (red) wire will go to the switch positive (outside pin) and that's it.

    From the switch:
    -Positive out (middle pin) will go to the relay-in positive, relay-out positive, and proximity sensor-in positive (brown wire).

    From the proximity sensor:
    Sensor wire out (S- black wire) will go to the relay negative-in.

    From the relay:
    -Negative-out will go to the speed controller positive-in. (This is what confuses people, because its not really a negative current flowing out. It is just a switch that connects positive from the 12 volt source to positive of the speed controller).

    From the speed controller.
    -Both negative and positive wires connect to the motor. Switching these two wires at the motor will control the direction it turns, CW or CCW

  19. #4239
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    For anyone who wants to understand more about how relays work, this is a decent video. Think of a relay just as a simple switch, but the way that switch gets turned on or off is by applying a low current power source. This way a high load current can be turned on or off using a low current source. The video talks about mechanical relays, but of course we are using a solid state relay. Same concept though.

    https://youtu.be/1_YfuH_AcxQ

  20. #4240
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    Thats perfect Tyler. I appreciate you writing it all out. I had a feeling some of those positives were feeders. I am a woodworker trying to learn some of this other "trades" stuff, so the more plain, the better.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check