Making that Bullet Collator

[g1500]

Have you tried printing a proper hex adapter with a flat in it?
I didn’t get the depth right on this one so I was printing another when I lost power.

Sorry for the crappy images but I’m working with a headlight on.

Negative, I looked into some adapters previously and heard a lot of people say that they tend to break easily. Plus, making that is way outside of my skill set, all I have made so far was an adapter for an endoscope and a foot for a swing; both were very rudimentary things yet took me a LONG time to make not having any knowledge of CAD. lol

The plates I re-printed with the new dimensions worked perfectly.

[TylerR]

How big a UPS do you have?
So far it went out for 2 hours this afternoon and it’s been out again since 7:00pm and the estimated restoration time is 10:30pm.

I can understand a few hours worth but anything longer than that you probably need a generator.

Yeah i am on house genertor too so that helps

[g1500]

Any professional opinions of removing some the the plastic between the sensor and the metal? Will that make any difference?

I think you will just get the sensor closer to the brass/bullets, the closer to the object the better. We use the big 30mm proximity sensors on trucks at work to cut out the PTO when things are open or in use, they are generally 3-5mm away from the ladders etc. so they like to be very close.

One could always run a spade or forstner bit through an old drop tube for testing instead of designing a new assembly.

[Macscotts56]

Doesn't the copper jacket impede the detection of the sensor? I believe the reduction in sensitivity can be as much as 75% when detecting copper. So if the range is normally 12mm when detecting copper it could be as low as 3mm. Additionally the shape of the object matters as well, the IEC spec for these sensors is determined by using a square flat piece of 1mm thick carbon steel that is equal to the surface area of the sensor. In other words you could completely remove the plastic of the drop tube and the limiting factor would remain the copper jacket and the shape of the bullet. I don't think there is much that could be done other than getting a bigger sensor.

[Macscotts56]

I'm trying to attach the bullet feeder to my dillon case feeder using the dillon hang brackets. Do I need to drill a hole through the dillon case feeder in order the attach the bracket? I'm struggling to understand how the two brackets work together.

[thump_rrr]

I'm trying to attach the bullet feeder to my dillon case feeder using the dillon hang brackets. Do I need to drill a hole through the dillon case feeder in order the attach the bracket? I'm struggling to understand how the two brackets work together.

Going by memory the way I see it is that it hooks onto the Dillon and bolts to the collator.
Look at the very first picture in the manual.
You can see it hooked onto the Dillon case feeder.

I have a Hornady myself.

[thump_rrr]

Negative, I looked into some adapters previously and heard a lot of people say that they tend to break easily. Plus, making that is way outside of my skill set, all I have made so far was an adapter for an endoscope and a foot for a swing; both were very rudimentary things yet took me a LONG time to make not having any knowledge of CAD. lol

The plates I re-printed with the new dimensions worked perfectly.

Barring another power failure I should have one printed in the next 45 minutes.
I’ll post pics and if someone wants a copy of the STL file I’ll find a way to send it.

[Macscotts56]

Going by memory the way I see it is that it hooks onto the Dillon and bolts to the collator.
Look at the very first picture in the manual.
You can see it hooked onto the Dillon case feeder.

I have a Hornady myself.

Yeah, I saw that but I was hopeful that I was just missing something, I really didn't was to drill a hole through my casefeeder.

[TylerR]

Yeah, I saw that but I was hopeful that I was just missing something, I really didn't was to drill a hole through my casefeeder.

Drilling the hole is optional. It should just hang off the side.

[TylerR]

All drop tubes have been modified to have 2mm clearance between the sensor and the hole itself. If you have a sensor that cannot reliably detect 2mm I would suggest using another sensor. As I have said I have no issues using the suggested Autonics PRD18-14DN2, or the one originally posted by GWS.

[GWS]

Me neither.......I was a little concerned about .223 cases, but I finished the build except for putting the electronics into my bigger box. (with the relay, and am using the little 5v power on the 12v motor, and it runs cool, slow, and perfect....no speed control.) So, I was surprised that I am having zero problems. Now, I did add another sweeper to the base.....two is better than one.....no more soldiers trying to get fed at once, no more jams and the collator shuts off every time.....and this is .223 even.

Video below to prove it..........thanks TylerR! your base and my proximity switch mates together for .223 cases just fine!

What's more if I replace the rotating plate and the lower tube with the .308 counterparts, it works exactly the same for that too. I love simple.

[Rcmaveric]

Looking at the link I posted. Copper is harder to detect than lead. Lead is half the impedence iron. Copper is more that 75% less than lead. Oddly brass is about the same as lead probably due to the zinc in it.

Capacitive proximity sensors can be used to detect a range of materials. They make adjustable ones. Problem is has either be designed for the material or have the sensitivity be adjustable. Getting one with the largest range will help.

https://www.instructables.com/How-to...ive-Proximity/

Can't vouche for the validity, but makes sense. The magnets will amplify inductive signal theoretically increasing range and sensitivity.

Maybe look for one designed for 3D printers. They would be calibrated to detect aluminum

Looking at the picture I posted refer to material influence. Multiple the material influence on your sensors rated distance will give you a more accurate sensing distance. From what I just researched most sensors are calibrated for FE 360 steel and thats what their rated distance is for. You will need one double or triple extended.

[djinnpb]

TylerR: Thanks for the tweak on the drop tubes. I printed a 1/2 top of the 10mm to test with 300blk brass and the less than ideal sensor and it works well now. I've also ordered the one you've had better success with.. just taking forever to get it in hand. I also never though about this but moving to the proximity sensor I can now print all clear petg tubes :P was a horrible idea when I did for the photo sensor

[TylerR]

TylerR: Thanks for the tweak on the drop tubes. I printed a 1/2 top of the 10mm to test with 300blk brass and the less than ideal sensor and it works well now. I've also ordered the one you've had better success with.. just taking forever to get it in hand. I also never though about this but moving to the proximity sensor I can now print all clear petg tubes :P was a horrible idea when I did for the photo sensor

Awesome. I am glad to hear it made the difference.

[TylerR]

I also have some hitech coated 160s if you want some for testing. I’d be happy to send you some on my dime. I can’t wait to see the results because these are tough little suckers

I got your package lablover. Let the games begin!

Just curious are you using hex interface, or pin thru shaft? Which motor again?

[GWS]

TylerR: Thanks for the tweak on the drop tubes. I printed a 1/2 top of the 10mm to test with 300blk brass and the less than ideal sensor and it works well now. I've also ordered the one you've had better success with.. just taking forever to get it in hand. I also never though about this but moving to the proximity sensor I can now print all clear petg tubes :P was a horrible idea when I did for the photo sensor

Waiting for the pictures.....especially on the clear tube! Never seen clear see-thru 3d prints.....

[TylerR]

Lablover, I have already done some initial tests with some existing collator plates, and it's fairly clear what the issues are. I am right now printing a new plate where I basically "tightened the screws" a bit. I have reduced the diameter of the shaft hole, reduced the size of the bullet holes, and I changed the plate diameter to 181mm, which technically leaves .5 mm of clearance to the side of the collator. I can see one of the main issues is the nose of the bullet not making contact with the ramp to begin the flipping process. Depending on how my new plate works I will consider more changes from there, possibly with the ramp itself.

[TylerR]

Me neither.......I was a little concerned about .223 cases, but I finished the build except for putting the electronics into my bigger box. (with the relay, and am using the little 5v power on the 12v motor, and it runs cool, slow, and perfect....no speed control.) So, I was surprised that I am having zero problems. Now, I did add another sweeper to the base.....two is better than one.....no more soldiers trying to get fed at once, no more jams and the collator shuts off every time.....and this is .223 even.

Video below to prove it..........thanks TylerR! your base and my proximity switch mates together for .223 cases just fine!

What's more if I replace the rotating plate and the lower tube with the .308 counterparts, it works exactly the same for that too. I love simple.

Love to hear the success story my friend. And the videos are always nice.

[GWS]

Love to hear the success story my friend. And the videos are always nice.

Yup! Now I'm the first ever to run an RCBS Pro Chucker 7 loading rifle right.........with auto collated case and bullet feeders!...since RCBS sure never made them. So what do you do with 7 stations loading rifle using military LC cases already prepped? (sized, deprimed, swaged, wet tumbled, and trimmed)

1. Case Auto fed
2. M-Die neck expanded for bullet feeder, Primed on the down stoke.
3. Powder Charged
4. Video Powder Cop
5. Bullets collated and fed into M-die case shelf
6. Bullets seated
7. Case necks snugged.

Now I really am going to clean the reloading room! Thanks again.....been a fun project!

[TylerR]

Yup! Now I'm the first ever to run an RCBS Pro Chucker 7 loading rifle right.........with auto collated case and bullet feeders!...since RCBS sure never made them. So what do you do with 7 stations loading rifle using military LC cases already prepped? (sized, deprimed, swaged, wet tumbled, and trimmed)

1. Case Auto fed
2. M-Die neck expanded for bullet feeder, Primed on the down stoke.
3. Powder Charged
4. Video Powder Cop
5. Bullets collated and fed into M-die case shelf
6. Bullets seated
7. Case necks snugged.

Now I really am going to clean the reloading room! Thanks again.....been a fun project!

All this talk makes me want to go out and buy a RCBS Pro Chucker 7