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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #601
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    A center drill is the thing to use to start a hole, without a jig.


    Now if you have a cube of metal, a drill press and a vise it’s really easy. You set the vise so the part is roughly in the center and drill either the diameter for the pin or the shaft diameter. Then flip the cube 90 degrees and drill the other. Now you stick the motor shaft in the hole it fits in and run the pin drill through the other hole and it will be right in the center.

  2. #602
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by r4ndy View Post
    What are people using to pin the shaft of the motor for the uxcell? I have gone through a bunch of bits and can’t get a good straight hole through the shaft with my drill press. I have tried titanium and cobalt bits and best I got was a hole offcenter as the bit kept wandering.

    I also bought an aluminum rod and couldn’t get the bits to drill that straight either.

    Any help would be appreciated, I am getting really frustrated with this last piece.

    The plate I have has a 10mm diameter and all the brass couplers I am finding on Amazon and EBay are 11.5. I am thinking about drilling out to the shell plate rather than fight with this anymore.
    I'll have to measure mine tomorrow if I get up to the shop, but the walls are about 2mm on these, so comes out to about 10mm... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shaft-Coupl...l/401366074041

  3. #603
    Boolit Bub
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    Thanks for the drilling tips - I am going to see what dww says and hopefully get the coupler and try to avoid more drilling on the shaft.

  4. #604
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    Quote Originally Posted by r4ndy View Post
    Thanks for the drilling tips - I am going to see what dww says and hopefully get the coupler and try to avoid more drilling on the shaft.
    They actually measure 9mm in diameter and fit a 6mm shaft. The coupler is about 20mm long. You'll need to order some m3 set screws for the shaft side (some short 1.5mm - 2mm ones), the other you can probably cut off the head of a 25mm screw and thread it straight through and lock it with loctite in place. There are two holes opposite of one another, so should not require any drilling, though I put a piece of brass through mine and soldered it, in hind sight I would have just used a headless screw.

    Looks like that supplier still has a 2mm x 6mm coupler, which should work still, but shows they are out of the 6mm x 6mm, you really only care about one end fitting the motor shaft anyway.
    Last edited by dwwright; 06-07-2018 at 11:52 AM.

  5. #605
    Boolit Bub
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    Thanks dww, going to order now!

  6. #606
    Boolit Bub
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    Found a nice PLA - pretty close to Dillon Blue ... prints well at upper speeds 80 - 100ms [ 215*C ] ...

    Ziro Fluo-Blue PLA 1.75mm 1 kg - approx $20 - Amazon

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  7. #607
    Boolit Mold Dark Horse's Avatar
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    Anyone else having an issue with the Double Alpha or Competitive edge dynamics credit card page showing as insecure when trying to make a purchase of the MRB motor?

  8. #608
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    I used paypal and didnt have any issues, they ship out of PA and arrived very quickly
    Quote Originally Posted by Dark Horse View Post
    Anyone else having an issue with the Double Alpha or Competitive edge dynamics credit card page showing as insecure when trying to make a purchase of the MRB motor?
    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  9. #609
    Boolit Mold Dark Horse's Avatar
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    I'll probably have to go with paypal then. Thank you.

  10. #610
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    What bullets are you using for 308 that work with that plate?

    It’s tall enough for most .223 bullets but way too short for longer 308 bullets.

  11. #611
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    Anyone else printed the Drop Tubes in Horiz Orientation ? I gave it a whirl to see how it would turn out ... may actually work. All the extra needed supports for the the vertical orientation and Brim due to the design made me wanna try this way ... 4.5 hrs vertically at .25 layer height / 80 mm/s .... This way - much stronger part and print time is 1/2 per per part same print settings ...


    Sure there will be pitfalls to this approach ... would appreciate others thoughts. Thanks

    Will post follow up pics when don 45 more minutes - these were about 25 mins in ...

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  12. #612
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    I've been wanting to try it horizontally but haven't had the chance yet. And I think cleanup would be easy on the ID, just run a drill bit through to clean it up.
    Quote Originally Posted by InfringedNSocal View Post
    Anyone else printed the Drop Tubes in Horiz Orientation ? I gave it a whirl to see how it would turn out ... may actually work. All the extra needed supports for the the vertical orientation and Brim due to the design made me wanna try this way ... 4.5 hrs vertically at .25 layer height / 80 mm/s .... This way - much stronger part and print time is 1/2 per per part same print settings ...


    Sure there will be pitfalls to this approach ... would appreciate others thoughts. Thanks

    Will post follow up pics when don 45 more minutes - these were about 25 mins in ...

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    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  13. #613
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    The ID is plenty fine and is an easy clean up if even needed ... the 6.5 ID part visually seems a little small for .223 bullets but I will check. The O.D. printed this way is NOT pretty. Im not sure how these will interface with a Die - if at all or will require sanding and grinding to function. Havent gotten that far yet.

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    Last edited by InfringedNSocal; 06-15-2018 at 08:05 PM.

  14. #614
    Boolit Bub
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    On another note - I started making a Spreadsheet Matrix of this projects parts to print and to BUY with some links ... Per Caliber. its far from complete. Theres way more data needed and I need some input from folks more in the know - but its a start and would prolly be kinda handy for new folks - and those adding new calibers to their builds. Hoping to help folks get their heads around whats needed vs. the massive folder full of files.

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  15. #615
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    Can anyone help me match up the Drop tube sizes to the right spring housing mounts ?

    Also the turning plates ? What calibers are for what turning plates

    bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_big_cal_double_slide = ???

    ... what calibers ? All Pistol sizes ?

    bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_double_slide = all rifle?

    bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_solid = whats this for ?

  16. #616
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by InfringedNSocal View Post
    Can anyone help me match up the Drop tube sizes to the right spring housing mounts ?

    Also the turning plates ? What calibers are for what turning plates

    bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_big_cal_double_slide = ???

    ... what calibers ? All Pistol sizes ?

    bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_double_slide = all rifle?

    bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_solid = whats this for ?
    depends on the caliber an bullet SHAPE. Can't tell you. You have to try.

    bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_solid --> self milling or filing. it's a solid block, where you can create your own ATP
    Sarcasm: the ability to insult idiots without them realize it.

  17. #617
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoMike83 View Post
    depends on the caliber an bullet SHAPE. Can't tell you. You have to try.

    bf_v2_adj_turning_plate_solid --> self milling or filing. it's a solid block, where you can create your own ATP
    Ok thank you ...

    I will also attempt to add a Matrix sheet as a tab to the spreadsheet for printing parameters / settings [ general ] for the parts.

    Recommendations / Successful Settings:

    Material
    Speed
    Layer Height
    Infill %
    Minimum Perimeters required
    Supports - Yes / No
    Brim
    Print Bed Orientation [ image link perhaps ]

    ... other ideas or issues folks have questions with ... ???

  18. #618
    Boolit Mold
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    Has anyone tried this feed with the Lee 38-105gn SWC?
    I tried to make a bullet feeder about a year ago and struggled to get it to work with the SWC as they jam when they are flipped from point down to up.

  19. #619
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    How are you guys printing these - Ive sliced them a few different ways - defo needs to be vertical - as my horiz orientation print was far too ugly for use ... unless you gents have some secret sauce.

    Anyone care to share their settings etc for these ... Im just printing by braille and testing different options. Had decent success in this orientation and these general settings

    PLA - ZiRO PLA Light Blue 215*C 1st layer - 210*C all the rest
    .20 Layer height
    40 mm/s
    4 Perims
    100% infill
    1.65 mm retraction
    65 mm/s retraction speed
    10 mm/s de-retraction
    Supports: Yes
    Brim: Printed with and without just fine - maybe I got lucky without - took it slow at 40 mm/s

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  20. #620
    Boolit Master Handloader109's Avatar
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    I run the led version vertically, no brim, no supports, at .2 and 25% fill. No reason for more. .8mm wall which is 3 layers for wall. Got to have layer fan.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check