Making that Bullet Collator

[MSUICEMAN]

Polypropylene? Interesting. I print on PEI coated spring steel or glass. The glass carborundum bed was ok for a while but seemed to wear out as eventually I'd have a lot of adhesion issues.

I print in my basement which is about 65 in the summer and 60 in the winter. For PLA I print at 60C bed, 209 Nozzle. But all that depends on machine, speed, hot end type, etc. I find a lot of issues come with drafts, as it leads to uneven cooling. If need be, you can use a wind block if it's from a known source or a cheap to free enclosure.

PEI impresses me, but I'm always willing to try the next best thing if it's affordable. I may try those garolite boards. I like the idea of a lightweight solution, as I'm going to go klipper on one of my printers, so anything to reduce vibrations at high speeds would be a good thing.

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[eatapeach]

We've all wasted prints, time, & PLA. Spaghetti isn't so fun either...... But, I'm afraid it's all part of the learning process. Lesson learned....stable room temps are important, bed temp and nozzle temp is extremely important.....but we all live in different locations....some of use print in cold basements....hot garages, etc etc. And the bed material is extremely important.

In my printing room I use 65C bed, and 215C nozzle.....after less than stellar trials and errors. Tyler prints in a kool basement and his temps are different from mine. Be patient....you'll get there. 74 to 59 room delta is a learning experience for sure. So you got another thermostat, I assume? and you fixed that problem? Room temp in my printing room fluctuates between 65 to 72 in 24 hours and it does okay. I think my problems ceased completely only when I replaced the Creality Glass bed with a Polypropylene bed TylerR suggested.

Oh I know. Not my first ruined print, and won't be my last, but the ruined long prints suck! Especially when they're in last couple hours of print time.

I switched to polypropylene last year and it's been great. It's stiff enough to counter any small low or warped areas and makes leveling easier. Plus, the prints just stick very well and come off easily once the bed is cooled. I typically use 65° bed and 215° nozzle temps will pla+ as well, but this red color likes a 220° nozzle temp best. Just that one color. Everything else I've tried printed great at 215°.

And yes, definitely replaced the thermostat immediately! But I'll also not be lazy again about putting the enclosure on for longer prints just to be safe.

[GWS]

Oh I know. Not my first ruined print, and won't be my last, but the ruined long prints suck! Especially when they're in last couple hours of print time.

I switched to polypropylene last year and it's been great. It's stiff enough to counter any small low or warped areas and makes leveling easier. Plus, the prints just stick very well and come off easily once the bed is cooled. I typically use 65° bed and 215° nozzle temps will pla+ as well, but this red color likes a 220° nozzle temp best. Just that one color. Everything else I've tried printed great at 215°.

And yes, definitely replaced the thermostat immediately! But I'll also not be lazy again about putting the enclosure on for longer prints just to be safe.

Then my last post wasting all the bandwidth with pictures....was a waste....I probably should delete that....you're way a head of me, and Msuiceman is probably through looking at it.......sometimes I post too much....

Funny......I don't even have an enclosure.....just two doors in the wife's sewing room to keep closed. ....and I've run 4 bases for days without even doing that......guess I've been lucky so far.....just spaghetti when the problem described below crops up once in a while.

Yes big fails are hell so I try to be home when I print all but the big bases that take days. I do still have problems with Creality's hot end sometimes, when melted plastic blobs between the tubing and the hot end cause PLA feed problems....even in spite of my doing my best to prevent voids. Last night I ordered TH3D's bi-metal heat-break to replace the stock one, and thus move the tubing above the hot end.... They say that totally stops that intermittent problem once and for all. So looking forward to the end of a not constant but still a reoccurring and stupid, annoying problem.

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !
What is the optimal height on the axle/hex coupler ? Seems like mine is a little to high ?! And Yes I will grind the set screw

[Sig]

Dear Team !
What is the optimal height on the axle/hex coupler ? Seems like mine is a little to high ?! And Yes I will grind the set screw

I believe mine are bottomed out on the shaft. My plates ride on on the hopper, they don't float suspended on the motor shaft. I'd say as long as your hex portion of the coupler is fully engaged in the plate, you're GTG.

[TylerR]

I believe mine are bottomed out on the shaft. My plates ride on on the hopper, they don't float suspended on the motor shaft. I'd say as long as your hex portion of the coupler is fully engaged in the plate, you're GTG.

Yes, the hex should be fully seated on the motor shaft.

[rogerandre]

Yes, the hex should be fully seated on the motor shaft.

Thanks. Any recommendations/experiences from cutting the motor shaft ? Angle grinder overkill ?

[TylerR]

Thanks. Any recommendations/experiences from cutting the motor shaft ? Angle grinder overkill ?

Why do you want to cut the motor shaft?

[rogerandre]

Why do you want to cut the motor shaft?

Motor shaft is too long. 1". So the hex nut comes up over the clutch. Any idea about the optimal length of the motor shaft ?

[TylerR]

Motor shaft is too long. 1". So the hex nut comes up over the clutch. Any idea about the optimal length of the motor shaft ?

Which motor is that? The linked 634JS motor shaft is 15mm or roughly 5/8" so that would be the correct length. If I was cutting one down I would use a hacksaw to minimize heat.

[rogerandre]

Which motor is that? The linked 634JS motor shaft is 15mm or roughly 5/8" so that would be the correct length. If I was cutting one down I would use a hacksaw to minimize heat.

This one in the link. I need to be more diligent on motor shaft length as I proceed. Thanks for the advice on the hack saw.

https://www.amazon.se/dp/B0C5WVB1FH?...t_details&th=1

Once again thanks !

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !
What is the recommended optimal combination of collator plate and slide plate for 9 mm brass (bottom down) ?
Collator Plate: Small Pistol Brass and Slide Plate: Brass ?

[TylerR]

Dear Team !
What is the recommended optimal combination of collator plate and slide plate for 9 mm brass (bottom down) ?
Collator Plate: Small Pistol Brass and Slide Plate: Brass ?

There is only one slide plate for brass.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob...lide_Plate.stl

[rogerandre]

There is only one slide plate for brass.
https://github.com/BF556/Feeder/blob...lide_Plate.stl

Thanks !

[GWS]

IMO, cutting the shaft would be my last resort. Why not print the clutch part taller so it covers the top of the hex at the existing height?
As you can see, I chose to make the parts that cover the hex deep, so that it works for both thin and thick plates. Having it stick up higher in the center sure doesn't effect anything detrimentally. TylerR's handle parts would work just as well.....love his twist lock mechanism.




The tall hex center clutch in the back is 20mm high instead of the usual 17mm. TylerR has the 20mm high one too, just not in the latest download.....I also thickened the ring to match. I noticed TylerR also has a thicker (hollow inside) handle available too....but not sure where it's intended to be used. My ring and handle obviously doesn't have the nifty twist lock, but I might like to steal that feature but only if he's not against it, otherwise I won't tread there....

If that motor shaft is hardened, you won't be cutting it with a hack saw....you can hope it's not...

[rogerandre]

IMO, cutting the shaft would be my last resort. Why not print the clutch part taller so it covers the top of the hex at the existing height?
As you can see, I chose to make the parts that cover the hex deep, so that it works for both thin and thick plates. Having it stick up higher in the center sure doesn't effect anything detrimentally. TylerR's handle parts would work just as well.....love his twist lock mechanism.




The tall hex center clutch in the back is 20mm high instead of the usual 17mm. TylerR has the 20mm high one too, just not in the latest download.....I also thickened the ring to match. I noticed TylerR also has a thicker (hollow inside) handle available too....but not sure where it's intended to be used. My ring and handle obviously doesn't have the nifty twist lock, but I might like to steal that feature but only if he's not against it, otherwise I won't tread there....

If that motor shaft is hardened, you won't be cutting it with a hack saw....you can hope it's not...

Huge thanks for the feedback. You got some very sexy prints there ! What brand/material are you using ? The metallic blue is stunning !

This is what I did: Took my Dremel, used a super thin cutting disk, took 5-6 min - took it easy so not to develop heat. No problem.
Looks like this now.

[GWS]

Several companies make "Satin" colors. That blue is from Zyltec out of Texas.as is the green. Klutz me stepped on my .223 feed die so I had to print another set of parts Wednesday.....that's what I get for letting my mess get out of hand during my projects in the loading room.....building a short bench for "processing" being out of room on the main bench....so I found a two drawer horizontal file cabinet and just finish a wood top for it....to which I will mount my APP and Summit press to. That's when the part fell on the floor unnoticed and I stepped on it......not as stout as steel parts to be sure....

Anyway being partial to "Satins" I tried Overture's red Satin for the Wednesday print.....picture below:



The older your eyes get the more you need color and brass bling.....?

[rogerandre]

Several companies make "Satin" colors. That blue is from Zyltec out of Texas.as is the green. Klutz me stepped on my .223 feed die so I had to print another set of parts Wednesday.....that's what I get for letting my mess get out of hand during my projects in the loading room.....building a short bench for "processing" being out of room on the main bench....so I found a two drawer horizontal file cabinet and just finish a wood top for it....to which I will mount my APP and Summit press to. That's when the part fell on the floor unnoticed and I stepped on it......not as stout as steel parts to be sure....

Anyway being partial to "Satins" I tried Overture's red Satin for the Wednesday print.....picture below:



The older your eyes get the more you need color and brass bling.....?

Extraordinary cool. And +1 on the older eyes and bling

[TylerR]

Huge thanks for the feedback. You got some very sexy prints there ! What brand/material are you using ? The metallic blue is stunning !

GWS has always had the prettiest prints. I still have yet to buy a satin filament but everytime he posts a pic I feel like I need to.

[GWS]

GWS has always had the prettiest prints. I still have yet to buy a satin filament but everytime he posts a pic I feel like I need to.

Don't bother....for you younger guys, it'd just hurt your good eyes..... However.......this last one is your favorite brand.....Overture.......