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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #301
    Boolit Master jmorris's Avatar
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    I don’t know, whatever the default settings are, I didn’t change anything. I didn’t try and measure it while it was running but did take a photo of the grid inside, someone with experience would have a better guess than me.

    All I did was tape the mirror to the bed, no cement or anything else. I had this https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...3194146&rt=rud because it doesn’t leave any adhesive behind upon removal may not be the best but it worked.
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  2. #302
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    I don’t know, whatever the default settings are, I didn’t change anything. I didn’t try and measure it while it was running but did take a photo of the grid inside, someone with experience would have a better guess than me.

    All I did was tape the mirror to the bed, no cement or anything else. I had this https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...3194146&rt=rud because it doesn’t leave any adhesive behind upon removal may not be the best but it worked.
    That's not enough infill. Change it to at least 80%, otherwise I might break.

  3. #303
    Boolit Master jmorris's Avatar
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    What are the settings you suggest for the body and other parts? Anything other than infill that needs to be changed?

  4. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    What are the settings you suggest for the body and other parts? Anything other than infill that needs to be changed?
    Layer Height 0.15 or 0.10
    Infill Density 80% or 100%
    Wall Count: 4 or 6
    Generate support: off
    build plate adhesion type: brim
    brim width: 6 mm or 8 mm

    cooling: enabled
    retraction: enabled

  5. #305
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    I use .10, .09 for first layer , 80% infill, skirt, no support

  6. #306
    Boolit Master jmorris's Avatar
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    Thanks. Itís going to be a couple of days before I can print the rest. The bullet plate is close enough to the ones I machined Iíll use it in one of my current collators to see if it will hold up.

    Whatís the print time on one of these with 100% infill?
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  7. #307
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    Thanks. Itís going to be a couple of days before I can print the rest. The bullet plate is close enough to the ones I machined Iíll use it in one of my current collators to see if it will hold up.

    Whatís the print time on one of these with 100% infill?
    There is a collator plate generator online, where you can change diameter of the plate. Bullet diameter and other stuff. Instructions are in the file. It will dynamically generate your personal collator plate. Give it a try!

    Mike
    Sarcasm: the ability to insult idiots without them realize it.

  8. #308
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoMike83 View Post
    There is a collator plate generator online, where you can change diameter of the plate. Bullet diameter and other stuff. Instructions are in the file. It will dynamically generate your personal collator plate. Give it a try!

    Mike
    Where do you find the generator program? I haven't found it yet.

    Thanks,
    Joe

  9. #309
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    Where do you find the generator program? I haven't found it yet.

    Thanks,
    Joe
    See thing instructions on thingiverse

    https://www.thingiverse.com/download:4711208
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  10. #310
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    I rerendered the collator plates. The "spacing issue" is gone now. Sorry guys. The 9 mm plate was OK. @jmorris: If you want a special collator plate, just give me the data. I will create one and send the file to you.

    Mike

  11. #311
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark2215 View Post
    I use .10, .09 for first layer , 80% infill, skirt, no support
    A skirt is an outline that surrounds your part but does not touch the part. The skirt is extruded on the print bed before starting to print your model. Skirts serve a useful purpose because they help prime your extruder and establish a smooth flow of filament.

    To increase the parts adhesion to the build plate and to prevent it from warping, I recommend to use brim instead of skirt.

    if there are any question, please take a look at: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/a...rts-and-brims/

  12. #312
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    Ok, the spring loaded arm has been re-designed. So, can one heat the arm up with a hot air gun and bend it? Does the original have to be trimmed?

  13. #313
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    Ok, the spring loaded arm has been re-designed. So, can one heat the arm up with a hot air gun and bend it? Does the original have to be trimmed?
    Hi Joe,

    if it was printed in PLA for sure. Heatup your heat gun to 375 įF and bend it. ABS and that carbon fiber stuff might become brittle or break. Make sure you wear gloves.

    Mike
    Last edited by AmmoMike83; 03-12-2018 at 06:31 AM.

  14. #314
    Boolit Master jmorris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoMike83 View Post
    Layer Height 0.15 or 0.10
    Infill Density 80% or 100%
    Wall Count: 4 or 6
    Generate support: off
    build plate adhesion type: brim
    brim width: 6 mm or 8 mm

    cooling: enabled
    retraction: enabled
    For the v2 base plate mrbullet feeder motor

    With

    layer height .1
    Shell thickness .8 for Wall and bottom/top
    Infill 100%
    Printing temp 190
    Plate temp 45
    Diameter 1.75
    Flow 100
    Speed print 50
    Travel 120
    Cooling enabled
    No support
    Adhesion brim, 8mm

    Is a 3 day, 8 hour and 46 minute print. That’s almost 81 hours, how are you all getting it done so quickly?

  15. #315
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    The base isnít 100%
    80%
    1.5 layer
    Should be about 38 hrs


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  16. #316
    Boolit Master jmorris's Avatar
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    Wow, I wouldn’t have thought they could squirt out that much with any precision. How does it effect strength with layers that thick?

    Edit
    Ok, I am getting 3h 42min for 1.5mm thick and it’s orange (guessing out of range or something) assuming the decimal was off and you meant .15.

    .15 @ 80% with the other settings above I get 33 hr 25 min.

    I went ahead and let her rip on .1 @ 80% after I made that last post for 49 hours.

    Other than time printing what is the overall effect of the .05 change in layer height?


    While I have my thinking cap on the 9mm bullet plate with the settings in #314 is almost 2 day 4 hour print.

    The one I printed I think was at 20% and took less than 14 hr. What if you flipped the print, so the top was down and left the bottom open. After it stops fill the honeycomb with epoxy, save a day an a half of printing and it would likely be stronger. Any thoughts?
    Last edited by jmorris; 03-13-2018 at 10:30 PM.

  17. #317
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    jmorris, I did 80% infill but the rest was almost the same as you said. It took me 3 days. Luckily I was going away for the weekend so I started it before I left and when I got back it was done!

  18. #318
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    Jmorris - that is thinking, it sure would speed things up. It does makes for another process, but if people are happy to just set the printer up and leave it go, they may not care.

    Filament seems to be pretty cheap, may be cheaper than epoxy is too

  19. #319
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    I don't think I would care how much filament it took or how long. I just want something that doesn't fall apart when you work with it or actually use it.

  20. #320
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    @320 grams for the base plate it's about 2 maybe 3 bucks of filament costs. If that's too much for you. Go and buy a Mr. Bulletfeeder :P

    Added a wiring schematic today, btw.

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BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
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