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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #281
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    From what I've read there are a lot of folks using a pane of glass as bed. Some have put a few drops of oil or other medium to transfer heat better. If you FB, there is a group for the printer..... Yeah, I know. I hate FB too. But some of the groups have given me a lot of good information..... Saving my dimes for a printer....... thought I had almost enough, but needed it for more urgent need. So I begin again.

    Oh, AmmoMike, glad to see that godaddy removed or told site owner to remove....

  2. #282
    Boolit Master jmorris's Avatar
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    Yep, it’s upside down, then. Thanks.

  3. #283
    do yourself a HUGE favor and get the green-ish build plate on Amazon, its about $14 and it does NOT require tape, hairspray or any type of glue. once at temp (60C) it grabs PLA like crazy, once cool after the print is done it releases with almost no effort. dont waste time with tape or glass with hairspray.

    Cheers

  4. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by Recordingwhiz View Post
    do yourself a HUGE favor and get the green-ish build plate on Amazon, its about $14 and it does NOT require tape, hairspray or any type of glue. once at temp (60C) it grabs PLA like crazy, once cool after the print is done it releases with almost no effort. dont waste time with tape or glass with hairspray.

    Cheers
    How about starting a list of the right stuff to buy when starting out with the 3D printer.

  5. #285
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    Thermal paste for those who want to try it https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Compou...mal+paste+mx-2

  6. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    How about starting a list of the right stuff to buy when starting out with the 3D printer.
    I will start a thread tomorrow


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  7. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by Recordingwhiz View Post
    do yourself a HUGE favor and get the green-ish build plate on Amazon, its about $14 and it does NOT require tape, hairspray or any type of glue. once at temp (60C) it grabs PLA like crazy, once cool after the print is done it releases with almost no effort. dont waste time with tape or glass with hairspray.

    Cheers
    Will this account for the already warped factory aluminum plate? I switched to glass with a thermal pad
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 under the glass because the stock aluminum bed was warped and it was impossible to level. I also reconfigured the maker select plus to use 3 screws for leveling which is the true way to level a bed.

  8. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaryB View Post
    Thermal paste for those who want to try it https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Compou...mal+paste+mx-2
    There are a number of heat sink compounds available. Some of these that state they work for CPU's are priced much higher than the simple transistor heat sink compound. Sometimes I think they are raising the prices simply because the compound will work with computer CPU's.
    I still have a small tube I purchased probably 25 years ago. One word of caution here is you only need a Very Very small film of the grease. The thermal transfer is actually better with a very thin film than it is with a thick film. The smallest tube will do you.

  9. #289
    This is the one I ordered and it works flawlessly, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    no need for any sticky ANYTHING. just use 4 binder clips to secure each corner and boom youre off to the races, I heat mine up to 60c on first layers then 55c after initial layers. works like a charm. no need for paste or thermal anything.

    Cheers

  10. #290
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    For 3D printing issues and discussions, please use:
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ullet-collator

  11. #291
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    @Mark2215 Thank you for your generous tip!!

  12. #292
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    Quote Originally Posted by Recordingwhiz View Post

    Cheers
    Thanks for the tip, Gerry!!!
    Sarcasm: the ability to insult idiots without them realize it.

  13. #293
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    I am using the one I linked with RF amplifiers that generate a LOT of heat. It is one of the top rated for thermal transfer score in testing. Silicone paste used for transistors in the old days doesn't come close to this stuff.

    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    There are a number of heat sink compounds available. Some of these that state they work for CPU's are priced much higher than the simple transistor heat sink compound. Sometimes I think they are raising the prices simply because the compound will work with computer CPU's.
    I still have a small tube I purchased probably 25 years ago. One word of caution here is you only need a Very Very small film of the grease. The thermal transfer is actually better with a very thin film than it is with a thick film. The smallest tube will do you.

  14. #294
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaryB View Post
    I am using the one I linked with RF amplifiers that generate a LOT of heat. It is one of the top rated for thermal transfer score in testing. Silicone paste used for transistors in the old days doesn't come close to this stuff.
    I'll be blunt here.... all you need is the cheap stuff here for this application. Reloaders and casters are cheap people and in this case its not necessary to spend the money for the very best paste. The mosfets in question that are being bought as a module are not producing very much heat. If one wants to buy mosfets and heat sinks and make up their own units a quick temp check with a IR thermometer will show that cheap compound will work fine.
    Last edited by 6bg6ga; 03-10-2018 at 08:37 AM.

  15. #295
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    Well it took about 13 hours longer to print than just make one but it doesn’t take any other tools to create.

    Due to the hollow design it weighs a lot less than the ones I machined from Hyvar but for the application I am sure they will be more than strong enough.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  16. #296
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    It looks great!!

    So, the mirror is taped to the bed? Where does the cement come into play? Sorry, I'm old. Oh, what kind of Green tape?

  17. #297
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    Well done!!

  18. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by AmmoMike83 View Post
    I modified the flipper. It has an eliptical shape now, not interfering with the drop hole.

    Attachment 215903Attachment 215904

    what do you think?
    Mike, I was looking for the file for the redesigned flipper but could not find it. i was going to print it out and give it a try.

  19. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark2215 View Post
    Mike, I was looking for the file for the redesigned flipper but could not find it. i was going to print it out and give it a try.
    uploaded. have fun.

  20. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    Well it took about 13 hours longer to print than just make one but it doesn’t take any other tools to create.

    Due to the hollow design it weighs a lot less than the ones I machined from Hyvar but for the application I am sure they will be more than strong enough.
    Awesome print. What infill did you use?
    Sarcasm: the ability to insult idiots without them realize it.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check