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Thread: Making that Bullet Collator

  1. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark2215 View Post
    Monoprice maker select plus, 1.25, glass on bed (stock bed was warped). Solutech PLA from Amazon, $20 per roll.
    My stock bed was also warped before I even got to use it. I wrote monoprice and they said they are sending me a replacement. I installed a piece of glass and really like the finished product and how well the print comes off the glass once it cools down.

  2. #262
    Anet A8 with 1.75 PLA about $14 and up per 1kg spool on Amazon. using the green surface plate Mamorubot from Amazon (best thing I ever got for printer EVER)

  3. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by Recordingwhiz View Post
    Anet A8 with 1.75 PLA about $14 and up per 1kg spool on Amazon. using the green surface plate Mamorubot from Amazon (best thing I ever got for printer EVER)
    I am having issues with my surface plate
    Think my gap isnít set right.
    I am going to play around with it some more once I get my autobed level hooked up


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  4. #264
    Quote Originally Posted by HATCH View Post
    I am having issues with my surface plate
    Think my gap isn’t set right.
    I am going to play around with it some more once I get my autobed level hooked up


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    To make mine work perfectly I used a plain sheet of printer paper as the gap setter, first make sure 100% sure there is not a little glob of filament on the tip of extruder, then level all 4 corners several times making sure there is just enough gap that the paper is touching both the bed and extruder. I did mine a CH lower and had the paper have a little tension but I could still drag it out. mine holds better than anything I have ever seen and requires no glue, hairspray or tape, leaves the work table side looking like glass. and once it cools the item is just sitting there and can be lifted with no force required to separate.

    Hope that helps

  5. #265
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    Houston we have a problem





    Not the one I printed.
    This was one of the first ones I got from tony.
    Just finished assembling it.
    Put a about 100 9mm Boolits in it and started testing.
    The wall failed right at the top of the ramp




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    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
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  6. #266
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    Bugger.... Can it be repaired with glue?

  7. #267
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    Sold at Home Depot
    Packs of 3. 2 packs is under $4 with tax


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

  8. #268
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    Not sure if it can be repaired.

    Its plastic so I could heat it up with a torch and refuse it.

    I took my butane soldering iron and fused the top of the wall on the replacement I got from tony and I think it is usable now. Wall is pretty solid now.

    That is the cool thing about working with plastics. If you catch a issue early on you can fuse it back with heat and it be good
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

  9. #269
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    Good point, with time, i bet you will get to know all the tricks of what can and what can't be saved. When you understand how it works and how it reacts to heat, you can repair things if/when they break.

  10. #270
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    I would put some cuss words in here but I don't want to give myself a infraction.

    So, I played around with the broken base.
    Something that I noticed was the inside section right where the wall separation started was glossy.
    I thought it was just a issue with the printing or something.

    So I took my butane soldering iron and used the heat port to heat up the plastic at the seam and fuse it back together on the outside part of the wall.
    I smelled something towards the end but didn't think anything of it.
    Well I started to fuse the inside part and started where the glossy section was.
    Guess what. The glossy section is covered in SUPERGLUE!!
    When I heated it up it gave off the distinct fumes and my eyes started burning..

    Tony must of used superglue to fix the wall separation prior to shipping it to me.

    The good news, is thanks to Tazza the collator base is repaired.

    I fused the entire outside. I used the tip to stitch the ends and used the heat port to melt the seam all the way around it.
    I used the heat port to melt the inside except where the superglue was. I hit it and my eyes started watering right away. Heated superglue is no joke.

    The repair is strong. I took it in my hands and tried to break the wall and I couldn't.
    I didn't put my full strength into it but I put more force then it would ever see and it didn't budge
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

  11. #271
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    As soon as you mentioned hitting superglue with a torch, my throat started to close up, those fumes are NASTY, far worse than plastic gives off when being melted. I he tried to repair the fault and if it has worked, you never would have known.

    Good to hear it seems that the repair is going to holdup really well. It may not look as pretty at it should, but functional is what you wanted.

  12. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by HATCH View Post
    Not sure if it can be repaired.

    Its plastic so I could heat it up with a torch and refuse it.

    I took my butane soldering iron and fused the top of the wall on the replacement I got from tony and I think it is usable now. Wall is pretty solid now.

    That is the cool thing about working with plastics. If you catch a issue early on you can fuse it back with heat and it be good
    Why didn't I think of that? I used JB weld on mine and I should have just heated it up. I did however grind into the first one to see if it was solid and found out it was hollow. The JB weld filled the voids and made it smooth again. Oh, how I wish I had just bought a printer in thefirst place.

  13. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by HATCH View Post



    Sold at Home Depot
    Packs of 3. 2 packs is under $4 with tax


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    I tried a M5 X 25 and the pitch may have been different on mine or something. Mine screwed in several threads and stopped and I didn't want to force the issue. My M5 seemed to look the same thread wise as the original ones I took out of the gear box. I'm not however a metric champ so I stopped in my tracks and simply put the original back in.
    Last edited by 6bg6ga; 03-08-2018 at 08:04 AM.

  14. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    Oh, how I wish I had just bought a printer in thefirst place.
    You and me both.
    I paid $220 shipped for the following
    2 bases
    6 caliber plates
    All the small pieces for 2 units.

    Well you have seen the story on the bases.
    The caliber plates are at the landfill and havenít checked the small pieces but the one I check was junk
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

  15. #275
    Boolit Master jmorris's Avatar
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    I am having issues with my surface plate
    Think my gap isn’t set right.
    I can 4 corner my bed and set the gaps right but it’s not flat, the middle is higher by a tiny amount. Since that where things have been printed so far, that’s where I set the gap.

    I cut a piece of glass to use on the top but the thermocouple wires on the bed come up to the top in the center.

    So that makes for almost zero contact between the bed and glass top. Maybe there is some thermal paste/adhesive that would be perfect for this application?

    I also wonder how the additional mass negatively effects the end product by causing more flex than normal.

  16. #276
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    Making that Bullet Collator

    On your bed. There is a led.
    Is that on top or on the bottom.
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

  17. #277
    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    I can 4 corner my bed and set the gaps right but it’s not flat, the middle is higher by a tiny amount. Since that where things have been printed so far, that’s where I set the gap.

    I cut a piece of glass to use on the top but the thermocouple wires on the bed come up to the top in the center.

    So that makes for almost zero contact between the bed and glass top. Maybe there is some thermal paste/adhesive that would be perfect for this application?

    I also wonder how the additional mass negatively effects the end product by causing more flex than normal.
    every printer I have ever seen has the leads coming from the bottom side, with the top "work surface" being a smooth aluminum plate, can you share pictures? perhaps the bed is upside down? (no offence)

    GG

  18. #278
    Boolit Master jmorris's Avatar
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    Well, that could be. I figured the side that had the tape on it was the “print” side but I also put mine together off the little leaflet as I didn’t know there were instructions on the SD card until I was ready to print (aka didn’t read them).

    Is the connector and LED indicator supposed to be up or down?

  19. #279
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    Aluminum side up


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

  20. #280
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    Led down


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    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

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