RCBS jacket drawing system from Bullet Farmer Industries..

[Mauser 98K]

this is the first draw die im making for the RCBS Rock Chucker model presses to draw bullet jackets. im just showing what im planning to do. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JfHyQkOxuOM

but as you can see the holder for the jacket blank has 2 purposes, one is to hold the copper slug centered in the die and the other is to act as a guide for the drawing punch to keep it centered in the die. the blank holder/guide will be spring loaded when everything is finished.. all the other dies and punches will end up the exact same way..

this will screw up from the bottom of the die hole and the drawn cups will be pushed up and through the top of the press. the die will be back bored a little larger than the drawn cups so they do not bind up and they are easier to remove..

but all i have to do with this die is cut the bevel where the jacket is drawn, thread the die, back bore it, heat treat the setup, and then polish it and then this die will be finished...

im still curious as to why nobody makes jacket drawing dies for the larger reloading presses. i know that Corbin makes a jacket reducing die but not a entire drawing setup for the reloading presses. i know most presses only have the smaller 7/8 hole in the top and that would limit them a lot..

[clodhopper]

Nice project.

Are you using O-1 steel?

[elk hunter]

Lever presses develop the majority of their force just as the lever and links go over center at the very top of the stroke. There is little force when the ram first starts to move until it nears the top of the stroke, thus there is little force to act on the punch and die until then. Most reloading presses are not intended or built to develop the kind of pressure that jacket drawing requires. That is not to say your idea won't work but, the larger and thicker the blank the more force will be required. The bullet making presses that I have all are very short stroke and heavy framed.

Just my $0.02 worth.

[Mauser 98K]

Clodhopper, im using grade 8 bolt material.. elk hunter, that is why i am designing it to draw at the last inch of the ram travel. i can just about draw the first draw right now using just my thumb and am working to improve upon even that..

but here is the finished cupping die.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLFJSMyONcc

i still have to spring load the holder on the punch and shorten the punch just a little but that shouldn't be too big a deal and then this die will be finished.. im going to redesign the holder/punch guide. the next one will be set up where it slides down over the ram itself and keeps the punch centered in the ram as well as keeping the punch centered in the die and keeping the blank centered in the die. but that will allow me to drop the holder just a little so i can shorten the punch in order to get the draw a little more into the upper portion of the ram travel. it should reduce the pressure required to draw it some more that way.. it is not that difficult to draw right now, i just would like to reduce the pressure a little more. the spring will also slide over the ram when finished being there will not be enough punch to place the spring there.. but it is coming along quiet nicely.

[clodhopper]

Oh yeah, you jiggled my memory of an earlier thread of yours detailing annealing and re-hardening.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...l-well-sort-of
Now that I found the link, there is a bunch of good stuff there, going to watch them again, thank you Mr. 98K

[Mauser 98K]

hehehe. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1xzwiPKpQU

well this die and punch are now complete.. just got the punch and guide/blank holder spring loaded a few minutes ago.. i was going to make it externally spring loaded but decided to go with an internal spring so everything is compact and self contained. it also makes it a plug and play setup with no having to adjust everything for 10 minutes like some swage/drawing presses.

you can't see me but i got my thumbs behind my suspenders with a big **** eating grin because i was told this would not work by a dozen or so people. with the negative attitude of "it cannot be done and you are wasting your time" it is no wonder they suck at building anything... those folks can suck it. but people need to learn that they don't tell me what i can and can't do because ill do it just to spite them.

[Mauser 98K]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjLtS_4EWYc

this is the finished blank punch and die for the RCBS RockChucker model of reloading press.. i still got to do a few little tweaks to it so it is easier to remove the punchings, other than that it works quite well..

[MaryB]

I would add a spring loaded pin offset from the screwdriver slot. When cutting it depresses, soon as it punches it would spring up and push the disc up... push it down,slide material, punch, repeat...

[Mauser 98K]

done thought about that but there isn't enough room.. the spring loaded thing would stick up in the path of the copper strip and i couldn't get it in the die unless i pushed the spring down every time i wanted to slide the strip... there is two options i can see. i can either bore the hole in the top out larger which would allow the easier removal of the punchings, or i can cut the top of the die off at the relief so i can just slide the punching off the punch.. either way would work..

[Mauser 98K]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hIFvDSC6cXc

this is the second drawing die for bullet jackets using my homemade die set and my RCBS press. i also can do aluminum with this die set but you do have to anneal every step with aluminum if you don't want to blow the bottom out. you must anneal the copper too so gotta do it anyway. contrary to popular belief you can anneal aluminum, it is just a little more involved. these jackets will probably end up being 9mm, .357, or .38spl jackets as only one more draw is required.