PID in a PC power supply case

[ranger391xt]

I asked previously for ideas about enclosures for a PID. One suggestion was to use the case from a PC power supply. Here are some pictures of my build...

Here is the box



Inside with power supply removed.



Checking possible layout



Continued.....

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[ranger391xt]

Heat sink and terminal strip mounted



PID mounted in the top part of the box.



Incoming power and output connected to terminal block



Finishing the wiring. I should have left the ones connected to the PID a bit longer.



All finished...





I should add some rubber feet to the bottom. An on/off switch would have been a good idea too.

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[Gunor]

Excellent. I just need to tear down one of my old computers...

[OS OK]

That's very nice work, very neat wiring. Very clever repurpose of that well vented box.

One caution though...I've seen a few of those power cords for the power supplies that are (I guess) size 20AWG, they were so small I just threw them out rather save them to repurpose.
I thought the minimum size that came with the computers was 18AWG? Don't know but, at least the 18AWG is good for 10 amps load in a single phase 115/230VAC (2 current conductors) application like this.

Can't find the NEC wire tables on line for the latest NEC but did find this site > https://www.stayonline.com/reference...-ampacity.aspx
I know that code has changed many times since I've retired but it's worth a look to be on the safe side.

[bangerjim]

What about mounting a 120vac muffin fan in the fan hole to help cool the sink? The ones in the old computer PS's are 12vdc. I use lots of 120VAC muffins in all my electronics. Tons of them at the local electronics surplus stores for little money.

Banger

[ranger391xt]

That's very nice work, very neat wiring. Very clever repurpose of that well vented box.

One caution though...I've seen a few of those power cords for the power supplies that are (I guess) size 20AWG, they were so small I just threw them out rather save them to repurpose.
I thought the minimum size that came with the computers was 18AWG? Don't know but, at least the 18AWG is good for 10 amps load in a single phase 115/230VAC (2 current conductors) application like this.

Can't find the NEC wire tables on line for the latest NEC but did find this site > https://www.stayonline.com/reference...-ampacity.aspx
I know that code has changed many times since I've retired but it's worth a look to be on the safe side.

Those are 16 AWG wires. I figure I should be OK, given the power cord on the Lee 4-20 pot is 18 AWG. I have some supply cables that are 16 AWG.

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[Smoke4320]

looking good ..

I built one in a plastic ammo box . ran it powering a smoker for 8 hrs yesterday .. worked like a champ
now I have 10 lbs of smoked Lebanon bologna

[ranger391xt]

That makes me think of one other option I should have added, which was a receptacle for the probe/TC. Then if I want to use it for different things I can plug in a different probe.

I definitely did this "on the cheap" the Inkbird kit was $35 on Amazon plus another $5 for the probe I wanted (both of which were Christmas presents from my wife). I'll probably have a couple bucks in a mount for the TC, but other than that everything else was repurposed/recycled.



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[Mike W1]

What about mounting a 120vac muffin fan in the fan hole to help cool the sink? The ones in the old computer PS's are 12vdc. I use lots of 120VAC muffins in all my electronics. Tons of them at the local electronics surplus stores for little money.

Banger

Just lubed a batch of bullets so thought I'd stick a bulb end type TC on the top of the SSR for kicks. Showed room temperature of 69° F. After running the PID for about a hour temperature was only up to 74° F. And my box is plywood with metal front and back with only vent holes on the back side. Doesn't seem like temperatures a problem on a SSR with a heat sink. If I can remember to do it next time I cast I'll hook up on that SSR. Probably won't remember!

[Mal Paso]

The SSR produces a little over 1 watt of heat for each amp of electricity while it's on or about 7 watts of heat for a 120V Lee 4-20. Once the pot is up to temp the SSR is mostly off producing much less heat.

I had a 400W power supply with built in outlet saved, but it wasn't fireproof so I ordered one of the $13 aluminum boxes from Amazon. Amazon thermocouples were fairly low temp, 400-500C, so I ordered a few 1000C from Auber. I got an INKBIRD PID but will get another Auber down the road. I will leave the thermostat in the new Old Pro Melt and use the PID to check the accuracy of the thermostat for now.

[lightman]

[QUOTE=ranger391xt I should add some rubber feet to the bottom. An on/off switch would have been a good idea too.

Most of the power supplies that I have seen had a switch. Kind of surprised yours does not.

[ranger391xt]

This one was pretty old. I think it was 250 Watt. I saw a date on it of 1990 something
....

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[LenH]

I bought a used Promelt from a guy on the Swappin & selling page, it was shipped with digital controller similar to yours. The TC was hard wired to the PID and the wire
was anchored to the inside of the box. I cut the wire and added a female plug to the controller and a male plug to the probe end. The parts are relatively cheap in the great
scheme of things. I use that controller for an electric smoker, my lead pot and a toaster oven for powder coating and keep spare probes around. Probes eventually go bad.

[etherwalker]

Very nice. I finally got rid of my old cases a few months ago, and now I wish I had them back. I just put together an Arduino based PID and ended up buying an aluminum box.

[bbogue1]

For a box I used an old metal lunch box and I've used a metal candy box. The box needs to be big enough to hold the PID 6X2X2 inches and the SSR 2X2 inches and enough room to get your hands in. Add room for the connection strip if you wish to use it at 1X4 inches. The lunch box cost 50 cents and the candy box was $1.00.


Both outside wiring is 16 gauge from discarded microwaves.

[ranger391xt]

I've had three or four casting sessions with this and have to say I'm pretty happy.

I mounted my TC in the pot similar to how what was described in this post. I used a mending bracket instead of the bi-fold door bracket and had to enlarge the holes, but the concept is the same.

The PID is an InkBird model that came off amazon, and it seems do a pretty good job right out of the box. I didn't have to tweak any settings, just set the temp for 725 and it keeps it within +/- 5 degrees, usually less as the session goes on.