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Thread: Where to source loose abrasive powder for WEETing a mold?

  1. #1
    Boolit Man
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    Where to source loose abrasive powder for WEETing a mold?

    I have a Lee mold that needs to be dropping a little larger than it currently is. After much reading around here, I think this thread is what I'm going to try:

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...hod-(In-parts)

    Is there somewhere local I should be able to pick up a small quantity of abrasive powder, in the 180-220 grit range? I figure that will expand and then I can just use toothpaste to polish the cavities back up.

    Everywhere I look I can only find paper- or cloth-backed abrasives. AKA sandpaper. We have Lowes, Home Depot, and Ace here.
    Currently in the process of developing the "perfect" cast .223 load for my AR-15. Click here to follow my progress

  2. #2
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    Have you tried looking for valve grinding compound? Autozone should have it.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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  4. #4
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    That McMaster is what I have used. I have used valve grinding compound also.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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  6. #6
    Boolit Master

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    Mc Master Carr, MSC, Graingers all have it both wet and dry look under lapping compounds. Also if there is a tool supply house near you that specializes in machining tools they should have it. There is aluminum oxide and silicon carbide available along with some diamond grades. aluminum oxide is harder and dosnt break down as fast so it dulls more. Silicon carbide is softer breaks down better and stays sharp better. also as it breaks down it naturally becomes finer grit. Diamond is very hard ( usually used for polishing carbides and other very hard materials) and very fine it takes along time to remove metal with it but a mirror can be made.

    When lapping charge the lapp. every few turns add a drop or 2 of water or oil depending on your compound and a few more turns. The nice thing with dry compound is it can be used with either as you want.

    If you have a machine shop local they may be willing to sell you a small amount of what they have on hand. Take a pill bottle with you. A pint can of compound goes a long long ways. LOL. (I have a tube of yellow diamond here that's been in my box for 20 years. also red, purple and white.) It dosnt take much to lapp a mould. maybe a amount the size of a pencil eraser.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

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    If you just end a bit, "barkeepers friend" is a mild abrasive powder in the kitchen cleaning section that is more agressive than polish or tooth paste but milder than grinding compound.
    "In God we trust, in all others, check the manual!"

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  9. #9
    Boolit Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    I had a opened can of valve grinding compound I acquired somewhere I used for my first.

    Cleaned up and polished with this.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    I used a bullet cast through a 5/16's nut, poured the lead through the center hole.

    I "should" have done some hand filing in the gas check area. And I "should" have cut the nose off.

    I did not put any compound or polish in either area but it does migrate into them.

    I hand turned mine with a nut driver. Did not take long. Check often.

    I use the blue metal polish for many little odd jobs, nice stuff. I also put it on a plastic barber strop.
    Does a great job of polishing knife blades, even stainless. In 2 years I may have used half of that little tub. A little on a cotton rag is great for polishing up high carbon knife blades.

    Plan ahead, Go slow, check often.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master

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    Another mild abrasive is automotive Rubbing Compound which is slightly more abrasive than Polishing Compound which is great for a final lapping .
    I found things like Comet and tooth paste either too course or the grit was not consistent , rubbing and polishing compounds are ideal for finishing up .
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  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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  12. #12
    Boolit Master MaLar's Avatar
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    Try your local headstone maker they use abrasives of different gritts. I asked the one here and they gave me a large paper cup full just for asking.
    Do not confuse my being polite for weakness.
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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
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