Snyders JerkyRepackboxTitan ReloadingRotoMetals2
MidSouth Shooters SupplyWidenersLoad DataReloading Everything
Inline Fabrication Lee Precision
Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Opening Throat on Bushing Die

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    258

    Opening Throat on Bushing Die

    I have a Redding bushing die that I need to open the diameter on just below where the bushing sits. I don’t think this is supposed to contact the brass anyway. Any ideas on the best way to open it up? Need about 0.005” all the way around.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Pleasant Hope MO
    Posts
    2,254
    Sounds like you need to call Redding customer service, all of my Redding bushing dies have plenty of room for the case neck to clear.

  3. #3
    Banned
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    82
    Sounds like you are using a case in a die body it is not for.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    258
    Quote Originally Posted by M-96 Hunter View Post
    Sounds like you are using a case in a die body it is not for.
    Yes, and the transition to the bushing is 0.005” too tight.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    4,612
    If your die body is not heat treated a standard reamer can be used in a lathe to open it up. After reaming the hole it would need to be deburred with 400 grit wet or dry paper wetted with a light oil.

    If the die body is hardened so that a file cannot cut it the die will need to be lapped with a hardwood dowel and a coarse lapping compound.
    EDG

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,536
    What actual size do you need? Which redding bushing die is it there is a full length die with neck bushing and a standard bushing die. They are tough material. Depending on size I would use a lathe and indicate the die in in a 4 jaw to dead zero. then with a boring bar bore it out to what was needed, I would use a carbide bar. one for use in a mill preferably solid carbide not a cemented chip on steel shank. The solid carbide bar is much stiffer in the small bars and wont chatter near as bad. They also don't have as much spring to deal with.

    If it comes out to a common size then a carbide reamer or even end mill or drill can be used. If the lathe is available I would go the boring bar route simply because these tools arnt cheap and the boring bar will get more use than the end mill drill or reamer.

    .005 on a side is .010 total on dia. With a lapp or hone its a lot to remove in that manner but can be done. For this the desired finish and the narrow surface I would turn a true brass lapp and use it over wood dowel wrapped with sand paper. A piece of brass turned to the dia and a taper pin hole reamed in the end. Tap a taper pin in to lightly expand and return to a straight surface. Charge with compound and insert make a few mins passes with low rpm high feeds back and forth. remove Tap pin in a little to expand dia and repeat clean and check size often. add oil or water ( depends on compound your using) and as you get closer to size go to finer grits.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master 243winxb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    2,844

    Bushing Die

    just below where the bushing sits.
    If you want the bushing lower in the die, its going to take more than a bigger hole.

    Unless i don't understand what your trying to do?

    243 to 308 may just need a bigger hole??

    My bushing doesnt size all the way to the shoulder. If you open the hole and its off center, accuracy may be poor.

    The unsized part of the neck, centers the round in the chamber.

    I am sure you already know this, i hope.
    Last edited by 243winxb; 02-06-2018 at 04:01 PM. Reason: add more with photo

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    258
    I am not trying to lower the bushing. Trying to open the diameter of the transition to the bushing. Currently working it with a tapered rod and compound.

    Thanks for all the feedback.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check