Marlin 1895 extractor damage to brass

[hawkenhunter50]

Anyone experience extractor damage to their brass with the Marlin 1895? I just got a new batch of brass from starline. The extractor leaves a gouge in the brass that is sure to scratch up the loading gate if not removed. It deforms the rim enough that putting the brass back in the plastic loading block is tight, it scratches down the side of the loading block. Is this normal for the 1895's or could I have gotten a batch of brass with soft rims?

[JimB..]

I don’t have this problem. Post up a pic of the damage and maybe a couple of the extractor.

[Thin Man]

I would test some other brands of brass and compare against the Starline. If the extractor marks all brands of brass, I would expect to replace the extractor. If only the Starline brass shows damage, I would bring the issue to Starline. If Starline asks, and perhaps if they do not, you could send examples of brass (both theirs and others) run through your rifle to them to examine. If the issue is with the SL brass, they would appreciate your feedback so they could evaluate their manufacturing processes and make adjustments as necessary.

[Dan Cash]

Difficult to diagnose without pix but suspect your extractor has a burr. Solution is to remove the extractor and stone the burr till smooth. Your loading gate is steel. Cartridge is softer brass so won't scratch but the gate will get wear marks from use. If such marks bother you, put the rifle in the rack and look at it instead of using it.

[hawkenhunter50]

Good idea with the various brands of brass. Ill have to get my hands on some to try, this is all I've got for the moment. Here are some pics. Nothing great for the extractor, havent had a chance to remove the bolt yet.

[JimB..]

That’s strange, like the extractor isn’t getting over the rim and digging into the side. Pull the bolt and see if the extractor will hold a cartridge in place.

[mehavey]

The other possibility is that the extractor doesn't have the receiver slot clearance to ride up/over the rim, and it's being jammed through the brass instead of up/over it.

As suggested before, pull the bolt and see if (a) the extractor lip riding surfaces are smooth; (b) its springiness allows it to move reasonably easily in/out, and (c) take a look here:
http://marauder.homestead.com/files/..._Extractor.htm

[hawkenhunter50]

Well managed to remove the bolt and it looks like it is not the extractor causing the issue. The rim/edge of the bolt itself has some burrs on it that match up perfect to the rim damage. Having issues uploading pics for some reason, will try again tomorrow. Not sure how the bolt would get this kind of damage?? Probably hard to tell without pics but is this something that could be stoned off? Not sure removing material from the bolt itself would be a good idea. ANy ideas on how this part of the bolt could become damaged? The extractor itself looked fine.

[corbinace]

Kind of looks like a screw driver prying to me. Any marks on the ejection port? Or, possibly the bolt was dropped on the cement floor during a cleaning session. I would have no qualms about taking the displaced metal from the bolt lip. The damage is already done and that little lip is not sacred. Just remove the stuff that is high, not the base material.

Nice catch.

[JimB..]

Is something wrong with your firing pin? I don’t think it should be protruding. Is that what is keeping the cartridge from sitting flat on the face of the bolt?

[mehavey]

that little lip is not sacred.

+1
It performs no function other than gross rim alignment/centering.
Smoothing/burnishing the interface w/ a stone is something they should have done as part of normal QC.
Pick THIS up at your hobby store (everyone has a Dremel, right ?) and polish the burr down smooth.

[hawkenhunter50]

Is something wrong with your firing pin? I don’t think it should be protruding. Is that what is keeping the cartridge from sitting flat on the face of the bolt?

I am not sure will have to check that also, I thought it was just from the burr, but hadnt noticed the protruding pin until you pointed it out. Sounds like polishing out the burr is ok to do then. Figure a stone is the way to go or the dremel bits as mentioned by mehavey? Was thinking of going the stone route until the bits were brought up. Probably have more control with the stone but may be awkward with the angle.

[JimB..]

I am not sure will have to check that also, I thought it was just from the burr, but hadnt noticed the protruding pin until you pointed it out. Sounds like polishing out the burr is ok to do then. Figure a stone is the way to go or the dremel bits as mentioned by mehavey? Was thinking of going the stone route until the bits were brought up. Probably have more control with the stone but may be awkward with the angle.

It wasn’t protruding in your earlier pics, but it is now. I’d pull it apart and clean it.

Dremel is going to remove material at warp speed, I’d wrap some Emory cloth around a dowel and do it by hand.

[plainsman456]

You can remove that piece of material without messing up the bolts function.

[Dan Cash]

Remove the burr which you identified, do not remove the entire flange. There is nothing wrong with your firing pin.

[JimB..]

There is nothing wrong with your firing pin.

It’s okay for the firing pin to protrude through the bolt face and interfere with the cartridge? Here is a bit extracted from his pics. Maybe it isn’t that there isn’t anything wrong with the firing pin per-se and maybe it’s just dirty and should be cleaned or the spring is broken, but you seem to be suggesting that he ignore it. Help me understand since it certainly seems to not be normal.

[44Blam]

Oh ****! My buddy had a CZ52 that had a firing pin that would stick. It would basically go full auto. Be careful with that!

[JimB..]

Oh ****! My buddy had a CZ52 that had a firing pin that would stick. It would basically go full auto. Be careful with that!

A full auto lever gun would be quite a scary thing! Seriously though, seems like it could fire while closing the bolt.

[mehavey]

the dremel bits as mentioned by mehavey?

Note that...
1. Those are Diamond-in-Rubber Emery Polishing Bits
2. Dremels don't have to go fast

[Tom Myers]

In all the Marlin Lever actions that I own and have worked on, the cocking lever has an extension that enters a slot in the bolt and also engages a slot in the forward firing pin.
When the rear of the lever is rotated down and forward, the lever extension first pulls the firing pin to the rear and then then, begins to move the bolt rearward.
When the bolt is fully closed, the lever has fully rotated up and rearward, locking the bolt in the firing position, the extension has moved out of the slot in the firing pit and the pin can then be sent forward after the rear firing pin section is propelled forward from the hammer strike, striking the forward firing pin section to move it forward to strike the primer.

So, if the bolt is removed from the receiver, without the lever extension positioning the firing pin, it simply floats and, as can be seen, in some of the images, the pin is retracted and, in one image, the pin is protruding from the bolt face.