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Thread: Mec 600 jr. problems

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by rking22 View Post
    The 600 will crimp a first reloaded hull so that it looks factory, once adjusted correctly. I had a Lee loadall, not terrible but not close to the mec in quality. PW is at another higher lever, in cost too!
    I'm not so sure. My load-all II seems to be getting more and more use, which is why I'm trying to fix the MEC. The Lee is a fully functional press, albeit limited in heavy duty use. The de-prime is better than MEC, the priming is about equal, but Lee has the 600jr. beat in resizing 10 times over. The 600jr. "works" on target hulls, while scratching them up, but is totally useless on any kind of taller brass. The de-priming is a PITA. It's possibly connected to my misalignment problems, but I always had to push the shell back and to the right perfectly for the primer to pop out. I hated buying charge bars, so I bought the universal bar. It meters small amounts of shot ok (over 1 1/4 oz bridges and makes a mess), but powder doesn't measure accurately at all. I either use my powder measure or lee scoops. The load-all bushings, while not always dropping what they say, are acceptably accurate, and work. Guys always rag on the crimping. Well I've loaded a bunch of 12ga on my load-all and it works. It's not a very deep crimp, but it beats what my MEC is doing now. I've been loading all my 16 gauge ammo on the Lee, and it does good on that too. This is not a pro-Lee, anti-MEC thing. It has just been my experience that people see the 600 jr. as a step above the load-all II, and I see them as equals. The Lee just plain works, and while the MEC can provide tighter crimps, IMHO, it is not fully functioning out of the box. I don't think I was even 16 when I got this MEC, and it wasn't much longer that I bought a Supersizer to go with it, and a universal charge bar, and a powder measure, etc...

  2. #22
    Boolit Master trapper9260's Avatar
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    I have read your post and maybe just send the press to Mec and see what they will say. Then go from there. Since you try everything else and what was stated. It will cost to send it and all but if they are able to fix it,it will be less then buy a new press.
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  3. #23
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    If you think the Lee is a better press then you need to just throw the MEC away and get another LEE. Problem solved right? Or better yet send that MEC to me, I will fix it and use it.

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomme boy View Post
    If you think the Lee is a better press then you need to just throw the MEC away and get another LEE. Problem solved right? Or better yet send that MEC to me, I will fix it and use it.
    If you can't fix it I'll give it a try.

    The picture's of the loaded shell's the OP posted had to come from a load all. When a MEC is setup right loads will come out just like factory.

    If the OP has problems with a MEC I just wonder how he will do with other brands?

  5. #25
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    The crimp starter should be marked as to gauge.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaguarxk120 View Post
    If you can't fix it I'll give it a try.

    The picture's of the loaded shell's the OP posted had to come from a load all. When a MEC is setup right loads will come out just like factory.

    If the OP has problems with a MEC I just wonder how he will do with other brands?
    Those pictured shells are the best my MEC will currently produce. What I don't get is why I asked for some advanced help, and all I get is a bunch of guys I've never even seen on the shotgun section before, coming on and insulting my intelligence. This is not a simple adjustment problem.

    The crimp starter is marked 12ga. I'll post the pictures of all the dies...

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    The more you guys talk about "customizing" the more I have to wonder if mine isn't a collection of old parts someone sold me. The main shaft fits very loose in the slot. The head, while fitting reasonably well, is way off. The more I look at the, the more I find problems. As I knew already, the de-priming station is off, by about 3/16". I already stated, but the crimp starter is off at least 1/4", and in the other direction from the de-priming station. The final crimp is close enough, but not perfect either. I have to wonder if this isn't a newer top half on a old style base.

    I called MEC, they had never heard of such things. Said I could send it in, and have it fixed for $65 an hour. Not going to happen. I am more than capable of figuring this out, unfortunately is seems it's time to modify. I'm going to use set screws to hold the shaft tight and square. I'll need to remove the head, and slot the holes on the de-priming station, and crimp starter. I'll try grinding out the ribs in the crimp starter and see how that goes. I do have a brass BPI 6 point that works well. Maybe I'll just have to get an 8 point version. Once that's taken care of, it should be functional.
    Last edited by megasupermagnum; 02-01-2018 at 01:23 PM.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master

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    I, myself,in my opinion only, think you hit the nail on the head with your statement about the mixed up parts are causing you some grief! Try a full set of dies from mec and change all the dies and everything! Might solve your problems,you never know! Certainly cheaper than a new press. Again, just my humble opinion! Good luck.
    I firmly believe that you should only get treated by how you act, not by who or what you are!!

  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy Rally's Avatar
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    Mega,
    Is the bolt holding the square shaft to the base in the bottom hole of the base? I can't tell from the picture, but the bolt needs to be in the bottom hole of the base and the bottom hole of the square shaft to load 2 3/4" shells. Also you have a nut spacer between the priming stem and the top frame which shouldn't be there unless you were loading 3" shells. On all of my 600's, when they are set up to load 2 3/4 shells, I can see just half of the hole in the base and half of the top hole in the shaft. It appears from your pictures you are not using the correct holes for 2 3/4' loading. This would make a pretty dramatic difference in length, alignment, and crimp adjustments.
    It appears you have an older press with newer dies. The older dies were all metal final crimp dies, and starter crimp. I think you just have the press set up to load 3" hulls and are trying to load 2 3/4: hulls. Going from 2 3/4" to 3" takes a lot of adjustment on most types of hulls.
    Last edited by Rally; 02-01-2018 at 02:09 PM.

  9. #29
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    On the wobble, mine wobbles like yours when I loosen the bolt a turn, it's pretty stiff if the bolt is finger tight. Bolt should be 3/8 16 thread, yours may be wrong thread, if so your main column threads are bad. I would remove the bolt and lift the main column out, look for something interfeering with it pulling up tight. Your missalingment points to some interference. Remove the spring and she'll holder then replace the column and finger snug the bolt, what do you feel/ notice. Then proceed with what is learned. You are running a mixed set of mec dies and missing the wad guide.With the misalignment you describe there is no way a wad guide would work! Suspect you were sold someone else's problem, but they are straight forward and you can fix it. It's nice to have a correct one to check against but we can help you with that.
    OK, don't grind the ribs out of the crimp starter, you will just need to buy another with ribs! I hate the new plastic things too but they work well. When you pull the lever while starting crimp, try short stroke till you feel the resistance increase, stop and look at the crimp. Should be folding along the original lines and have about 1/4 inch opening. Adjust to get this at full stroke, or just pullnto feel.

    Pull the column and test as I described then get back and we'll go from there. Gotta be frustrating, I understand!!
    “You don’t practice until you get it right. You practice until you can’t get it wrong.” Jason Elam, All-Pro kicker, Denver Broncos

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy Rally's Avatar
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    rking22,
    I believe you are correct about the starter crimp being for a 20 ga. Rim looks too thick to be a 12. Also interesting the wad guide is gone, which requires being disassembled to remove.

    Mega,
    What part of the state do you live in. Reason I ask is that Superior Shooters Supply in Superior, Wi. has quite a few Mec parts in stock and a 600 you could look at to compare to yours. If your close to me I'd be happy to check it out.
    Last edited by Rally; 02-01-2018 at 03:05 PM.

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rally View Post
    rking22,
    I believe you are correct about the starter crimp being for a 20 ga. Rim looks too thick to be a 12. Also interesting the wad guide is gone, which requires being disassembled to remove.

    Mega,
    What part of the state do you live in. Reason I ask is that Superior Shooters Supply in Superior, Wi. has quite a few Mec parts in stock and a 600 you could look at to compare to yours. If your close to me I'd be happy to check it out.
    I'm near St. Cloud, there are a number of places around to find MEC's including fleet farm and guns n' gear store. I took the wad guide off because the thing is dumb. It works with target loads with smaller wads, but half of what I load is hunting loads. The crimp starter is a 12 gauge, and I'll have to deal with that later. My MEC is completely dissembled now, I've found plenty of things I can do to help it fit together better. Hopefully this time tomorrow it will be working again.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master

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    For the money if you cannot fix it your self its probably better to purchase another one new. $65 per hour from MEC is kinda salty.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
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    I would not slot holes for primer and starter, I'll bet a dollar to a donut they are in the right place and when you find the origin of the wobble they will be in the right place. One thing at a time, and deal with the root cause first.
    There should be no problem with the wad guide and hunting loads, that's why I still have 600s. My target loads are loaded on progressives, hunting loads on 600s, I don't like fiddling with setup. Fix the alignment and I bet most other things will be healed as well.
    Will the bolt screw all the way thru the square column now that it's apart?
    With a magnifying glass and a light I found the 12 on my started, never knew it was there, can also see it in your pic. Now that I know where to look, learn somthing ever day!
    “You don’t practice until you get it right. You practice until you can’t get it wrong.” Jason Elam, All-Pro kicker, Denver Broncos

  14. #34
    Boolit Buddy Rally's Avatar
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    Mega,
    I'm escorting my wife on a small buying trip the next two days. We are staying at the Mille Lacs casino and will be at Mille Lacs Unclaimed freight tomorrow some time. If you want to meet me somewhere I'm pretty sure I could get it working correctly. My shop # is 218-697-8113 if interested.

  15. #35
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    The wad guide is used to prevent the wad from catching the edge of the hull causing the lip of hull to fold in a little and screw up the crimp.

  16. #36
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    Another thing to check, there are at least 2 versions of resize body attachment. One version locates with very fine threads on the top of the tube screwing into the upper head. The other has no threads in the upper head and locates by an inner assb I can't remember the details and the only one I have like that is on loan. Anyway these do not work well with the other frame. Could complicate your issue if it is crossed.
    Another thing I had forgotten, I use a 16ga or 20ga drop tube to reduce binding in steel wads, and some lead 1 1/4 wads.
    “You don’t practice until you get it right. You practice until you can’t get it wrong.” Jason Elam, All-Pro kicker, Denver Broncos

  17. #37
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by megasupermagnum View Post
    Why is everyone so obsessed about the bolt? If that is all that holds a MEC straight I'll just end my search here and look for a better brand. I already have my eyes on a Ponsness-Warren 375.
    The bolt is what holds it straight, via friction between the main shaft & the base. Your press either has a stripped bolt, striped bolt hole, the wrong bolt (if it has a shoulder not allowing it to tighten all the way down), or something inbetween the base & shaft that is modifying the friction (lube, powder dust, loose paint).

    Tighten that bolt tighter than you think it needs to be, with an actual wrench or socket, not a pair of pliers.

    Not trying to be rude, but, your problem of the main shaft rocking back & forth is a problem with the bolt.

    Rob

  18. #38
    Boolit Master

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    That's a nice offer Rally. Mega, I'd let the man help me. No joy in what you're doing. I've got a couple of mecs and load-alls and use the lee for all my slugs and buck since I weigh charges anyway. Do finish the crimp sometimes in the mec for a tight taper on the crimp. Get the stack just right with the lee and it's all the tool you need though.
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  19. #39
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    I appreciate the offer Rally, but it seems I'm making progress. With it completely apart, I can take the head, the column, and the base and slide them together. When on top of each other, they seem to be aligned perfectly. As for the bolt, I'm sure I could get it tight enough at some point, but having to crank that thing to 100 ftlb's is just a piss poor design IMO. I changed it to an allen head, which allows me to crank on it much harder. It seems solid, but eventually it slowly slips and you end up scratching your head as to why the crimps start becoming inconsistent. Again, this is a non-issue with little 1 1/8 oz target loads. I'm talking solid wad buckshot, and steel shot loads. I'm half way through what I hope will fix it. I'm drilling holes in the sides to lock the shaft solid. The set screws will hold it from rocking side to side, and the rear (original) bolt will then only have to hold it vertically.

  20. #40
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    Do you have anything to use as a shim to stick in the square hole? 4 pieces bent at a 90* and slid into the hole should align it up.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check