Ok, here is the loading data GM sent me. Green Mountain Muzzleloader Barrels IBS Load DATA.pdf
I will say I use .500 balls in my .50 cal and .451 in my .45 and they are really easy to load.
Ok, here is the loading data GM sent me. Green Mountain Muzzleloader Barrels IBS Load DATA.pdf
I will say I use .500 balls in my .50 cal and .451 in my .45 and they are really easy to load.
Joe
Thanks for posting that - has me wondering now if the GM boys have drifted their specs a bit over the years? - like I said that 54 barrel of mine is 20years old - I tried a 530 hornady ball and ticking patch (18thou) - that would be a stiff load for my money - would hate to have to batter a 542 ball down that tube with that same patch - had a 50 cal GM and used a 495 and ticking - MIGHT have got a 50 ball down it wid a big hammer ? Have a CVA 50 that still will not take a 50 ball on any kind of patch - CVA likes a calico patch (rifling is a bit shallower than some I think) but will shoot ticking ok too. Have had six 1980's vintage CVA barrels and they out shot fellers with the best custom tubes that money could buy - some of this has me kinda puzzled ?
When I got my .50 cal GM, I used .490 and it didn't group too well. A shooting buddy told me I needed to use .495. I emailed GM and got their load data I posted. Made a huge difference. So, I tried .500 to see if was even better, still easy to load using only my hand with ticking. Can't tell any difference in grouping between the two, most likely due to the shooter's lack of ability! I now mostly use .495 since they are easier to find here in West Georgia. I have the .54 on order and I was just trying to have some balls ready when it ships. I can find some .530 locally. I want to start pouring my own so I may order a mold. Thanks for your comments. By the way, what is calico patch?
Joe
LEE makes a 535 mold - Double Cavity 90456 - that would be middle of the road fit - I like their round ball molds - no sprue to bother with - I tumble all my round ball in a canvas bag with a pinch of graphite in it - rounds off any imperfections and keeps em shiney for ages. Just do it by hand - dont take long at all.
Calico is what they USED TO make bed sheeting out of in the old days - white cotton unbleached calico - what I have measures 12 - 13 thou - the pillow ticking I have at present is 19 thou - denium would likely be 23 - 25 thou?
Those old CVA barrels shoot really well with a good fit ball and a calico patch - but I think the CVA rifling is a little shallower than GM - maybe 8 thou versus 12 ? .... I had really good luck with those barrels .. so easy to load ... they were not pernickity at all . Had a CVA pennsylvania rifle that I converted to flint that was brilliant --- won some stuff with that one! -- but I thought a bit better rifle and I could beat those couple of blokes in front of me - so like an idjit I sold it - got a 50 cal rifle a guy built on a GM barrel, L&R Durrs Egg lock, Davis trigger - could not get that thing to perform near as well - ended up shooting a little 45 I built for a mate of mine - cheap Belgian barrel - cheap spanish lock - its ok - the biggest drawback is a 45 with 1:48 twist - so 75 yards is about its limit. I know the guy that has my CVA - we get on real well - he wont sell it back no matter what - worse than that he cant shoot the thing!!. Cant shoot a flinter but he thinks one day he will - same feller takes some catching with a capgun or shotgun. The GM gun sat in my cabinet for years till I unloaded it to a bloke in our club last year - he used to build nice flinters and was struggling $$ wise to get going again so I sold it to him cheap as a parts gun.
Yes, I asked my wife about calico. I should have known. I have tried several types of patches and I think the thick ticking you get at JoAnn's works the best in my rifles. I should have also told y'all the GM barrels I have are drop-ins for Thompson Center Hawkins that GM made until 2008, I think. But, they do have their own stock. I don't like switching back and forth. They clean up so much easier than the T/C barrels. They are longer and heavier and change the feel of the rifle.
+1 for Jeff Tanner. I have several and they are very round and constructed to extremely close tolerances. If I needed another, he would be the first I'd turn to.
RJ:
I would check Jeff Tanner and Larry Callahan, two good ones!
Nit Wit
I'm just a newbie to casting and haven't measured the RBs from my Lee mold but it does seem to load just a tad harder than the Hornady 535 balls I used to buy. I guess I would also try a thicker patch like pillow ticking before buying a custom mold. You know, unless you really NEED a new toy.
The Track of The Wolf sells hand cast .543 round balls.
Maybe this is a stupid question and sorry if it's off topic for the thread, but why would GM recommend different sized balls for hunting vs. target? Isn't the overall goal the same in both cases? Hit where you're aiming...
The target load they recommend would (I believe) be just too big of a PITA out in the field - you might want to make a second shot sometime inside a quarter hour!
several things come to mind --- most target shooting done "wet" ie load fresh - shoot - load again - the round is shot within a couple of minutes of ramming it home - so the target guy can use a wet patch (I do) makes it easier to ram down a tight combination.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |