Titan ReloadingLoad DataRepackboxSnyders Jerky
WidenersInline FabricationLee PrecisionMidSouth Shooters Supply
Reloading Everything RotoMetals2
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 59

Thread: Kerosene to degrease brass?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master 243winxb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    2,844

    Intermediate Ethanol Blends Infrastructure Materials Compatibility Study:

    https://bioenergykdf.net/system/file...lants_Kass.pdf Have fun reading. Intermediate Ethanol Blends
    Infrastructure Materials Compatibility
    Study: Elastomers, Metals, and Sealants .

    Oak Ridge National Laboratory

    Figures 16–18 represent the post-exposure appearance of coupons of cartridge brass, phosphor bronze,
    and galvanized steel, respectively, resulting from the expanded testing. These images indicate the degree
    of discoloration and film formation associated with each exposure (other materials indicated far less, or
    even no, discoloration and film formation). As indicated by the planned interval test results,31 particularly
    for the copper-based alloys, these corrosion films form quickly upon exposure to fuel at elevated
    temperature and tend to be adherent to and protective of the substrate.
    X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) was performed on representative coupon surfaces following
    testing (to compare with results from unexposed coupons) to assess the corrosion film thickness and
    composition as a function of ethanol content in the exposure environment. The corrosion film
    composition and thickness were not found to be substantially functions of the percent of ethanol in the
    fuel blends (~ 10, 17, 20, and 25%). In other words, the XPS results for a given material were
    indistinguishable and independent of ethanol concentration. Representative XPS results, shown in Fig. 19,
    were measured for cartridge brass exposed to CE25a. The plot reveals the composition of the corrosion
    product film as a function of depth from the surface (the film is incrementally sputtered from the surface,
    and the identity of released materials is distinguished by relative energy). As stated, the sputter profiles
    for cartridge brass exposed to CE10a, CE17a, and CE20a were indistinct from that shown in Fig. 19 for
    exposure to CE25a.
    So, inconclusive, may be not.
    Last edited by 243winxb; 01-31-2018 at 05:03 PM.

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,536
    I have used acetone, rubbing alcahol , laquer thinner. at different times. What I prefer is to deprime lube and size. then a quick trip thru ground corncobs with a little nufinsh added. On large batches this is faster than wiping them down by hand. To just remove the lube may take 1/2 hour or so. This gets the brass clen of lube the nufinish leaves a protective coating against corrosion and last, is quick and easy.
    I have 3 containers of corn cobs in use normally, besides the 50 lb bag of new. 1) is the oldest for range brass once fired that's really cruddy and nasty. This has been used first in the other 2 uses. this is the last use for corn cobs for me. 2) is for brass that's been fired by me and needs cleaned of fouling and a shine put back on it its treated with nufinish and Iosso brass polish. This brass is dull from firing and or age and needs a little time in the polisher to remove dust dirt and fouling before sizing. this is the second use of corn cobs for me. 3) This is new corn cobs with a little nu finnish added that already cleaned brass is ran thru to remove lubes after sizing. This is the newest corn cob being used. Here the nu finnish and sizing lube seem to condition it for the next uses. I have found the Imperial sizing die wax I use and the nufinnish in the corn cobs seem to make a combination for a very nice shine and polish job in the next use of them.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master


    Soundguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    N Central Florida
    Posts
    2,834
    Quote Originally Posted by 243winxb View Post
    https://bioenergykdf.net/system/file...lants_Kass.pdf Have fun reading. Intermediate Ethanol Blends
    Infrastructure Materials Compatibility
    Study: Elastomers, Metals, and Sealants .

    Oak Ridge National Laboratory



    So, inconclusive, may be not.
    I tried to reply to your pm, but you have replies blocked.

    That's a good read. Close study of page xvi shows that while there is a copper sulfide film, it was considered of no consequence. In other words, it formed a protective patina.

    I also see that galvanic corrosion was purposely caused by dissimilar metal combinations in the solution.

    Also of note, was they were not using straight ethanol, but rather 'aggressive ethanol', which was a solution of water, ethanol, salt and sulfuric acid.

    The purpose was to estimate long term exposure for immersed products. ( vapor test products produced nill results ).

    Given those extreme variables used, it is easy to conclude that plain ethanol used to rinse brass will cause -0- harm.

    On the other hand if you stack all the variables to their maximum negative impact, acid, galvanic, corrosive minerals, heat and long term duration, then you could end up with an essential non harmful tarnish.

    Doesn't seem like a problem to me.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    4,612
    I lube my brass with Imperial. For about the last 20 years I have been removing the lube with 90% isopropyl alcohol.
    IPA is a standard solvent used to clean flux residue off of PCBs (printed circuit board assemblies) and wire harnesses after soldering in the electronics industries. It is also used to clean and for wipe down of ultra high vacuum equipment in the semiconductor industry. Finally it is used to clean work surfaces, tools and work in process in medical implant manufacturing.
    EDG

  5. #25
    Boolit Master



    retread's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Payson Arizona
    Posts
    1,344
    Quote Originally Posted by CraigOK View Post
    No experience with it for cleaning brass, but acetone will remove a lot of things and evaporates away very quickly.
    Acetone is what I use. As stated it evaporates quickly. I have a container (glass with a screw on lid) that I fill half way with acetone, add brass and shake for about 15 seconds.
    Then I pour of the acetone into another glass container, dump out the brass to dry and return the acetone to my "cleaning" container, screw on the lid and save for the next batch to be cleaned. The acetone will last a long time before it needs to be changed. Works for me. I use Imperial sizing wax.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master knifemaker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Mountain area of Northern CA.
    Posts
    927
    To degrease my rifle brass after sizing, I use alcohol. I buy one gallon at the local hardware, not that expensive. I use a large wide mouth container and put the brass in the container. Pour enough alcohol to cover the brass, screw the lid on and shake the brass in the alcohol. Then I pour the used alcohol into a empty one gallon can, use a funnel, and screw the cap shut to preserve the alcohol. Lay the brass on a towel to dry. You can reuse the alcohol several times to degrease more brass and the alcohol will last for a good amount of time.

  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    out of here, wandering somewhere in the SW.
    Posts
    10,163
    Use Keri ONLY in kerosene lamps. Do no use if for degreasing.

    Use acetone/laq thinner. Those cut grease, are readily avaiable at big box stores, are relatively harmless to you body , and do an excellent job of cutting grease.

    I use laq thinner regularly to degrease everything in my machine shops. Cuts grease better than stoddard solvent. But watch open flames!!!!!!!!! ( heaters/water heaters/ etc). I degreaed a complete SouthBend 10" lathe using only laq thinner......with precautions observed.....nitrile gloves.

    Banger

  8. #28
    Boolit Master


    Soundguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    N Central Florida
    Posts
    2,834
    When I wrench on my farm tractors.. That's when I use kerosene or diesel as a parts degreaser..

  9. #29
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    61
    Lacquer thinner!! Always have it in my body shop. Works great and dries fast. Cleans up my cases lubed with a mix of alcohol/lanolin just fine. A good degreaser for most anything.
    Pete

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    412
    Quote Originally Posted by 1988-4551 View Post
    Thank you for the replies everyone. In the long term this is one I’m going to be trying out some different lines.

    Just doing it how I remember my dad doing it. Clean motor oil. Never heard of anyone else using it, and always just dealt with the degreasing as coming with the territory. Never did a batch as big as I’m currently doing and know their is probably a much better way of doing it. In the meantime I’ve got this one last batch to degrease and will hopefully find another method with easier cleanup once I do some research. Really enjoy having the forums search function and members to answer my questions.
    The only thing I have found so far that really works os vibratory cleaner with fine walnut shells and about a tablespoon of NU Polish drizzled into it. There is something in it that takes the lanolin off and it also cleans the black necks on bottle neck rifle cases. Just might be your solution.

  11. #31
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    AL
    Posts
    330
    Rubbing alcohol removes homemade lanolin/heet lube. Brass in coffee can,alcohol in put top on and shake lightly for a second or two. Strain and store alcohol in peanut butter jar in coffee can. Brass laid out on old cookie sheet dries in minutes. I have reused the alcohol several times and it still works great. I use the 91% rubbing alcohol.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    North East, USA
    Posts
    1,428
    Never use any product with Ammonia (works great to remove greasy waxes)...but it weakens anything with copper...which is a component of brass. I buy gallon jugs of Denatured Alcohol from HomeDepot or Lowes...it works great as a degreaser, general purpose cleaner. I use it a lot....and its cheap.

    redhawk

    The only stupid question...is the unasked one.
    Not all who wander....are lost.
    "Common Sense" is like a flower. It doesn't grow in everyone's garden.

    If more government is the answer, then it was a really stupid question. - Ronald Reagan

  13. #33
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    East Arkansas where I55 & I40 come together and then split
    Posts
    694
    I remember my parents using the term Coal Oil for kerosene.

  14. #34
    Boolit Master Walkingwolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    964
    Dawn, and hot water.

  15. #35
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Casa Grande, AZ
    Posts
    5,526
    After sizing its back into the tumber full of lizard litter for my brass. Once clean they get primed and loaded.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master Jack Stanley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    South of the north pole in the land of the falling waters
    Posts
    4,070
    Quote Originally Posted by 1988-4551 View Post
    Thank you for the replies everyone. In the long term this is one I’m going to be trying out some different lines.

    Just doing it how I remember my dad doing it. Clean motor oil. Never heard of anyone else using it, and always just dealt with the degreasing as coming with the territory. Never did a batch as big as I’m currently doing and know their is probably a much better way of doing it. In the meantime I’ve got this one last batch to degrease and will hopefully find another method with easier cleanup once I do some research. Really enjoy having the forums search function and members to answer my questions.
    Motor oil as resizing lube ?????

    Jack
    Buy it cheap and stack it deep , you may need it !

    Black Rifles Matter

  17. #37
    Boolit Master



    retread's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Payson Arizona
    Posts
    1,344
    Quote Originally Posted by retread View Post
    Acetone is what I use. As stated it evaporates quickly. I have a container (glass with a screw on lid) that I fill half way with acetone, add brass and shake for about 15 seconds.
    Then I pour of the acetone into another glass container, dump out the brass to dry and return the acetone to my "cleaning" container, screw on the lid and save for the next batch to be cleaned. The acetone will last a long time before it needs to be changed. Works for me. I use Imperial sizing wax.
    I use this same method but with Lacquer thinner. The same thinner lasts a loooong time.

  18. #38
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    socal
    Posts
    524
    I'm with Walkingwolf. Hot water and Dawn, rinse, dry, done.

  19. #39
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Casa Grande, AZ
    Posts
    5,526
    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Stanley View Post
    Motor oil as resizing lube ?????

    Jack
    There is a lanolin/ heat mixture that works great for sizing.

  20. #40
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Casa Grande, AZ
    Posts
    5,526
    Quote Originally Posted by shortlegs View Post
    Rubbing alcohol removes homemade lanolin/heet lube. Brass in coffee can,alcohol in put top on and shake lightly for a second or two. Strain and store alcohol in peanut butter jar in coffee can. Brass laid out on old cookie sheet dries in minutes. I have reused the alcohol several times and it still works great. I use the 91% rubbing alcohol.
    If you have a tumbler use lizard litter and tumble the lube off. This is the safe smart way of doing things. About a 1/2 hr if memory is correct and this is all you need. Ultrasonic with dawn and a little commercial cleaner for a few minutes and the brass is clean. Either sun dry or a few minutes in the oven at around 130 degrees and the brass will dry.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check