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Thread: Stuck 98 Mauser barrel any ideas?

  1. #1

    Stuck 98 Mauser barrel any ideas?

    So I'm trying to get a barrel pulled on a 98. I have tried ever trick I could think of. Koil, heat gun, steady pressure with a cheater pipe and tapping with a hammer. Been working on it for two days. Every time I get mad I walk away before I break stuff. I've got it in the barrel vice with 60lb of wheel weights hanging on the end of the cheater overnight just to see if it will pop. Next step is relieving the barrel shoulder. Anyone have any ideas? I've had 1917 barrels come off easier than this one.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    leebuilder's Avatar
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    Been there.
    Reliving the shoulder is an option. I use a 0.050 thou parting tool I made just for that. You don't want to put any twists in the receiver.
    Good luck!!!
    When you read the fine print you get an education
    when you ignore the fine print you get experience

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Reverend Recoil's Avatar
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    I have used a hack saw to relieve the barrel shoulder. A 3/16" deep cut all the way around close to the face of the receiver ring will work to get off the tightest barrels.
    DRB #2276

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    First, the vise or whatever you have holding the barrel has to be the immoveable object. Next, a tightly screwed on receiver wrench with a cheater bar and all of your weight should do the job. I've used a pipe that slid over the handle that was 4 ft. in length, and there was nothing it wouldn't take off. Sometimes a sharp, sudden application of force like hitting the handle with a large hammer will do the trick, the sudden shock breaking the bond.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reverend Recoil View Post
    I have used a hack saw to relieve the barrel shoulder. A 3/16" deep cut all the way around close to the face of the receiver ring will work to get off the tightest barrels.
    This is how I do it.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by Der Gebirgsjager View Post
    First, the vise or whatever you have holding the barrel has to be the immoveable object. Next, a tightly screwed on receiver wrench with a cheater bar and all of your weight should do the job. I've used a pipe that slid over the handle that was 4 ft. in length, and there was nothing it wouldn't take off. Sometimes a sharp, sudden application of force like hitting the handle with a large hammer will do the trick, the sudden shock breaking the bond.
    The sudden shock of a LARGE hammer is the secret!

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    FWIW: I use 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF when I need a penetrant. According to lab reports and personal experience it makes kroil look like you were using axle grease to try to penetrate the joint. Apparently the acetone is so thin that it creeps into any opening available, carrying the oil with it. For barrels and frozen choke tubes it sometimes takes more than one application of the heat gun alternated with more penetrant. You do need some type of container with a cap to keep the acetone from evaporating, Brownells has some cute little oiler bottles great for the purpose. GW

    For those frozen choke tubes I made an tool from an old socket so I can use an impact driver and a big greasy ball peen hammer. Couple of raps and the tube unscrews with oil all the way to the bottom of the threads. Clean off the carbon and rust and you're good to go.
    Last edited by Goatwhiskers; 01-27-2018 at 11:43 AM.
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  8. #8
    Another 4 hours down the drain. Chucked up in the lathe and relieved the shoulder and three more heat cycles with the heat gun using 50/50 mix. 4 foot cheater bar with all my weight and an 8 lb hammer. No love, still tight all I've managed to do is get mad enough to throw a hammer across the shop and turn the air blue enough to warrant a thunderstorm warning. At this point buying a stripped action is starting to look really appealing.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master Cap'n Morgan's Avatar
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    The Mauser 98 locks on the barrel end and has no true shoulder to relieve. Cut the barrel close to the action and drill/turn out the thread.
    Cap'n Morgan

  10. #10
    This is a Berlin made 1909 argie 98 and it's locked up solid. Just pulled a barrel from a FN 98 this afternoon for a friend, one good stout tug and pop his was loose. Mine sat on the bench looking smug the whole time.
    If I have to cut and bore out the treads i would have to hire it out. My lathe spindle is just an inch so no way to get the action chucked up. So I'm gonna have to rube golburge something up on the mill. The more I pull and curse at this action the more I think about cutting out that barrel stub.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Only ever had one that bad. I put it in the freezer overnight with the barrel vise jaws and got everything as cold as the freezer would get it. I even considered getting some dry ice and packing the barreled action in that, but really didn't want to make a special trip to get the dry ice unless I had to. Next day I clamped the barrel in the vise as quickly as I could, used the heat gun to warm the receiver ring a little, slapped the action wrench on and whacked it with a 4 pound brass hammer. It broke loose but was still a booger to unscrew. Cleaned up the threads and the darn barrel practically wobbled in the action
    OK folks, there is only two ways to do this. My way or my other way.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by largom View Post
    The sudden shock of a LARGE hammer is the secret!
    you mean LARGE SLEDGE hammer

  13. #13
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    If your action wrench is solid enough, immobilize it. Put your best pipe wrench on that barrel with a cheater pipe. Cut that relief groove. Haul on that wrench- it'll break that unwanted barrel loose(probably with a loud POP).

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    I had a similar issue with a 1909 argie, with an aftermarket 30-06 barrel that was shot out. I tried everything mentioned above, with no success. I even managed to snap the vise from the benchtop.
    I ended up cutting the barrel off an inch or so from the receiver face and ground and filed the barrel stub for six sides so I could use a socket and bar for better grip. I ended up making a jig for the receiver and jammed it under a single post car lift with a car on top. i slid an 8' tube over the cheater bar and stood on top of the tube. I guess about 1400 to 1500 ftlbs was enough to break it loose. It did put a slight twist in the receiver, but I left it alone, and has been shooting well for many years.
    All this is not worth the effort nowadays. A $60.00 or free mauser might be worth a try.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Some Mausers barrels shoulder on the face of the receiver and shoulder internal to the receiver just in front of the bolt locking lug space. The cutting of the barrel in front of the receiver will help for the first shoulder at the front of the receiver. If the barrel is seated against the internal shoulder than a lot of torque is required to loosen the barrel.
    In some cases I have cut the barrel off short and then TIG welded the barrel to my steel welding table with the receiver in a vertical position. The internal receiver tool is inserted and torque applied with a long cheater bar. Some care is required not to bend the receiver.
    Sometimes a lot of torque is required to free the barrel.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master Jedman's Avatar
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    As Bill Clinton said, I feel your pain !

    Jedman

  17. #17
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ID:	212925Got it! It froze hard here last night so I just left it in the barrel vice and added a pipe wrench on the other side of the vice as slip insurance. Built a pipe cheater that would accept at 5' rock bar. Gave the receiver ring a little heat and sucked up the action wrench. Got the bar on gave it a pull and dropped a 8lb hammer on the wrench handle. Let loose with a pop and I landed in a pile with a rock bar on my lap.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by firebyprolong View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	212925Got it! It froze hard here last night so I just left it in the barrel vice and added a pipe wrench on the other side of the vice as slip insurance. Built a pipe cheater that would accept at 5' rock bar. Gave the receiver ring a little heat and sucked up the action wrench. Got the bar on gave it a pull and dropped a 8lb hammer on the wrench handle. Let loose with a pop and I landed in a pile with a rock bar on my lap.
    Well, with that out of the way- what are you building?

  19. #19
    I'm building a 35 whelen with a green mountain short chambered barrel from midway. A freind and I both bought one last year when they went on sale. His flat shoots so I have high hopes. I've wanted one ever since I got 4 boxes of factory Remington ammo in a trade 15 years ago. Opened the box and thought, " I need one of these badly". I've been gathering parts and pieces ever since. It's about time I get one built. I was originally going to build one on a 1917 action but this hacked up 98 just fell in my lap with a sewer pipe bore.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master lefty o's Avatar
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    tight ones definately make quite the popping/cracking sound when they finally come apart.

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BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
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