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Thread: A sheet metal riveting question

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    A sheet metal riveting question

    I had a rivet come out of my aluminum boat this past duck season. I got a replacement rivet, a piece of steel for a backer, but need to make a punch to peen over the shank. I got the next size bigger rivet, so I can drill a new, clean hole, rather than use the old one that might be a little wallowed out, so can't use the measurements of the other rivets in the boat.
    My question is, what diameter hole in the punch do I need to peen over a 3/16" diameter aluminum rivet?
    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
    rockrat's Avatar
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    Can't help there, but if you have a smallish airport close by, see if you can find an aircraft mechanic and ask him if he will "buck" a rivet on your boat for you with his rivet gun and bucking bar

  3. #3
    Boolit Master


    Soundguy's Avatar
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    I've always peened a rivit with a ballpeen hammer.. but those were soft iron rivits into thick metal like on tractor bumpers.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master

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    If its a solid rivet then with a good backer and a little work you can form the new head with a small ball peen hammer. Most rivet sets are a concave radious to form the rounded head. With a 4 ounce ball peen light tapping and working around the edge you can forma fairly nice rounded head, not as fast as the rivet set does but it can be done.

    If you want to make a set measure the head on existing rivets or the formed one on the replacement. Use a ball end mill to cut the radious into the punch and then face the end 10*- 20* from it. This angled face allows the punch to from down tight to the part and to be "wiggled" to form a truer head.

  5. #5
    Boolit Bub
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    Sounds like you have a solid rivet and those are used with an air chisel and a bucking bar.A special bit sized for the head of the rivet in an air chisel and a bucking bar on the back are used to peen the rivet.The rivet needs to be compressed and expanded to hold pieces together to maintain structural strength.Rockrat has a good idea about looking for a small small airport. You could also look for a Auto Body Shop that does repairs on " Delivery Trucks" like UPS or Post Office cause they have aluminum bodies that use that kind of rivet on body panels. If you can't find a place PM me and I will check with some friends in Pa. for a place near you that can do it.

    Good Luck
    Last edited by SNDBGGR1484; 01-23-2018 at 03:37 PM.

  6. #6
    Boolit Bub deerstalkerks's Avatar
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    Your rivet butt should be 1 & 1/2 times the diameter of the rivet. you could go to a Harbor Freight and get a pop rivet kit, it comes with puller no need to beat on anything..

  7. #7
    Boolit Mold deetee's Avatar
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    Regular pop-rivets may very well leak, but there are "blind rivets" available, I have used these on both corrugated iron and IBR profile roof sheets.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master rondog's Avatar
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    Ah, memories of Aircraft Mechanics class in high school Vo-Tech......

  9. #9
    Boolit Bub
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    if its not too hard of an alloy rivet which I doubt that it is on a boat you can probably do a nice job as you said with a backer and a ball peen hammer. And as previously mentioned any airport would be able to smash that rivet for you faster than dragging out the airline to do it. If you were on the eastern side of the state Id tell you right where to go. If you don't like your results you can always drill it out on center and do it as many times until you get the best results.
    Good luck.

  10. #10
    In Remembrance
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    Quote Originally Posted by deerstalkerks View Post
    Your rivet butt should be 1 & 1/2 times the diameter of the rivet. you could go to a Harbor Freight and get a pop rivet kit, it comes with puller no need to beat on anything..
    Not even close to the same thing.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks for the replies.
    The small local airport was the first place I asked, but without any luck. I will try body shops. I hadn't considered them, figuring they didn't work with rivets or aluminum, but never thought about UPS and mail trucks being made of aluminum.
    I originally was just going to take an ball end mill and put a "dimple" on the end of a punch, and peen over the rivet in a rounded dome shape. Then I got to thinking (maybe overthinking) about why all the other rivets in the boat were peened in a cylindrical shape. I'd like to get this right, as the rivet is below the waterline and I'd like to not have to deal with a small geyser of water coming in the boat, at 5:00 AM, again.
    I did find that a redbush twig jammed into the hole makes a pretty good temporary rivet, it lasted the whole day. The biggest problem was keeping the Lab from trying to chew on it.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy
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    I believe the tool you are looking for is called a "rivet setting tool". Push rivot though , place heavy steel backing over rivet hood, use setting took and top is peened over. Some old sheet metal guys may have yet.

  13. #13
    Boolit Bub
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    If you search (faa AC 43.13-1b ) then go to chapter 4 section 4. You will get some images and guidance of using solid rivets. . I know it's not an aircraft but the same principle applies. Also installing the rivet wet with your favorite sealant is typically a good idea.

  14. #14
    Boolit Bub
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    But of course there is always YouTube and you can see the tools and rivets getting smashed. Then improvise as needed.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master

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    I think liquid steel and plenty of caulk if duct tape won't fix it.....
    "My main ambition in life is to be on the devil's most wanted list."
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  16. #16
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    When my boat did that I used a pop rivet and lots of silicone... lasted 10 years before I had to re silicone it

  17. #17
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    Might try using a ball bearing to start the rivet rolling over if it is the type with a hollow at one end. Have heard of folks drilling a dimple in one side of a C clamp for the head of the rivet and on the other side weld a ball bearing to clamp down and roll. Never tried it myself. Old guy at the motorcycle shop I worked in showed me how to replace brake pads by drilling off old brass rivets, and riveting on new pads. Used a punch and ball peen. Never achieved anywhere near his level of proficiency but could get the job done. If I had to.
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  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    I do some work with aircraft rivets. Cheapest and quickest is to use a backer (any heavy piece of metal) and work around perimeter with a ball peen hammer, It will upset into the hole as you work around it. You don't have to hit it too hard, just enough to move the metal a little at a time. I've got a lot of rivets in two different vehicles done that way.

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy shaper's Avatar
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    Stay away from the air chisel, it hits too hard and too fast. You will need a rivet that fits the hole tight. You should put it in wet with a sealer. Do not use a selastic. when curing it gives off a gas that eats aluminum. I would use a (A) rivet It is soft and will fill the hole best. Two hammers will work. Put the rivet in from the outside with the sealer on it and in the hole. Have a friend push the big hammer hard on the head of the rivet, he should hold the pressure until you are finished. Now you use the smaller rivet and crush the tail of the rivet, don't let it bend over. You are done. That is the primitive way. If it was here it would be a 30 second job. If you have the time to wait just pm me and I will send you the rivet, just let me know what size the hole is. Look for the number on the drill bit.

    shaper
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  20. #20
    Boolit Master
    kens's Avatar
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    what the diameter of the new clean hole?
    what is the grip length? (the total thickness of all the metal layers involved)?
    I got a assortment of aluminum rivets.
    No, you dont need any special rivet dies nor punches to plug a hole in a jon boat.
    I could mail you a couple.

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