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Thread: De-activating Primers

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold deetee's Avatar
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    De-activating Primers

    Hi All,

    I know I came across this info in one of the boards, but for the life of me I cannot recall where - (the grey hairs roots seem to run deep in this one ).

    Any hints, tips or pointers to the relevant threads, or any any relevant info wrt 'killing' primers prior to decapping unfired reclaimed cases, or for swaging fired cases will be greatly appreciated.

    Regards,

    Dan

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master



    M-Tecs's Avatar
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    Primers are very hard to kill. When wet they will not fire however they will dry out a sooner or later. Penetrating oil would be best but not a 100% even when wet.

    If I want to deprive live primers I just make sure I don't slam pin into the primer.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    It's nearly impossible to deactivate primers from what I remember. Heat will set them off, just would want to be sure not to anneal the base of your case! IIRC 250F or so can ignite primers, of course every manufacturers' primers are different.

    Some have suggested solvents (results vary on those though, oil and water didn't bother some primers I tried them on once) - Be gentle & you can just deprime them, I wouldn't suggest using a hammer-driven deprimer like the Lee Classic loaders uses unless you don't mind setting them off, just gentle gradually increase the pressure & they shouldn't fire. I personally wouldn't try to re-use the primers tho

    And Eye and ear protection would be "wise".

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
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    Are you referencing primer pocket swaging?

    Far as 'killing' live primers..............I have been a reloader for well over fifty years and I have YET to see any truly reliable method.........I have had the need myself on chambered live bulleted rounds that involved drilling thru the projectile.......then soaking that case with every imaginable mixture..........penetrating oil/wd 40 and on and on and on............only to test that primer when the ctg was removed and having it fire.

    My experiences have convinced me to NEVER trust a so called dead primer..............................Far as the pp swaging goes...........get one of RCBS's kits and have at it......works like a charm on crimped primer pockets.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Maybe a good long boil on the stove, might be enough to boil the priming compound out the cups. Boiling water won't hurt your brass but the heating element or burner flame might a bit much for the cases that are on the bottom of the pot. You'd want to stir them.
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy eric123's Avatar
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    I've decapped hundreds with the sizing die/decapping pin, I'm just gentle with the press handle and have never had one go off. I've also fired them off in the gun...I've thrown them in a bucket filled with water for a few days before knocking out the primer as well. I know this isn't what you are asking for, but extra options are always nice...

  7. #7
    Boolit Mold deetee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phineas Bluster View Post
    the primed cases were submersed into a bath of hot water and citric acid
    This is what I think I came across!

    To all the other replies: Thank you one and all, it's heartening to see so many helpful responses!

    I will certainly be giving this a bash, hopefully to salvage the brass safely - with no unexpected *bangs*

    Best...

    Dan

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy Valornor's Avatar
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    When primers are made, water is used to desensitize the mix. It can still go off but it takes a lot more work to set it off. The primers spend several weeks in bunkers to dry out. We often had to scrap primers and after consulting with a chemist who oversaw primer development and production told us the best way to deactivate them was to soak them in desiel fuel.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

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    Chamber and firing the empty case, unless there are many hundreds.

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    dogrunner - were you asking me "Are you referencing primer pocket swaging?"? If so, no, I was referencing a couple Lee products. Let me find links. I use these in the range reloading kit, deprimes anything but it's a bit loud as you have to hammer the pin down :P I use a dead blow hammer as it's a bit quieter.

    https://leeprecision.com/decapper-base-22-caliber.html
    https://leeprecision.com/decapper-base-30-caliber.html

    Those are the same tool as in the Lee Classic Loaders for decapping cases, basically, I think.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Like several others have said, just be gentle when depriming. I use a Lee decapping die which has plenty of clearance around the case to let out any gasses downward if one should go off, but guess what? I've never had it happen. Still, best to wear glasses, just in case.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy
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    I just use my decapping die and go slow.

  13. #13
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    i got a special die setup to deprime cases. it is just a regular sizer/decapper die with a hole drilled in it that faces away from me when depriming, that way if one pops the gasses are vented toward the rear instead of being bottled up in the die and causing other problems. it also helps to have a portable press, that way you can do it outside or where nothing is harmed by the fire flying out the vent hole.. wearing hearing protection and safety glasses is also a good thing to do, especially if your inside..

  14. #14
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    My mother worked for CCI in the Lewiston factory as a test\QC tech back in the 80's. She said a drop of oil and let it sit for a while would kill a primer. It always has for me. FWIW.

    You then need to get the oil out of the case or it will affect the next primer. Brake cleaner makes a fast job of that if you want to use it right away.
    Steve,

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  15. #15
    Boolit Master


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    If you have that caliber why not just fire them? Otherwise just deprime them slowly, I did that once when I began reloading and used small rifle in my 9mm shells.
    "Freedom is the sure possession of those alone who have the courage to defend it."
    ~Pericles~

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    on the other hand. this makes for a great training opportunity.. just get a piece of paraffin wax and make a sheet that is about 1/2in thick and just press the case in the wax and make wax bullets. great for in the basement plinking.

  17. #17
    Boolit Mold deetee's Avatar
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    Report Back:

    First, thanks for all the responses.

    I soaked the whole bunch in warm water / citric acid (powder) mix overnight, and thusfar, all seem to be "dead." Well, not a one went *BANG* anyways!

    Best to all,

    Dan

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Most, well many including me have removed live primers and reused them. Just apply the pressure gently, and wear safety equip in case. No one I've heard of was totally successful at perminately killing them.
    I once used penetrating oil on advice from others. I didn't pop one in removal and buried them for safe disposal. Bet I could dig them up and some would still go bang.
    The engineers did a great job in designing them to safely do their job, and last almost forever.
    Information not shared. is wasted.

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy Valornor's Avatar
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    I have literally decapped tens of thousands of live primers, and never had one go off. As long as you take your time and don't try and rush things you're not going to have a problem.

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy tiger762's Avatar
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    I too have deprimed live primers without incident. There are a heck of a lot of well-meaning people who have claimed everything from antifreeze, brake fluid, methanol, etc. to chemically render primers inert. I think what happens is a liquid acts as a solvent to start dissolving the primer mixture. Nothing to do with what the actual liquid is. As long as it can act as a solvent. Anyway, I let a friend deprime 4000+ primed 44mag for me. He kept the primers and I was then able to sell the brass through the USPS

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check