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Thread: Lachmiller lube-a-matic leaking from bottom

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
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    Lachmiller lube-a-matic leaking from bottom

    I bought a very very old, but still fairly functional lachmiller lube-a-matic it does size and lube bullets (after I used a heat gun to melt out the petrified lube) using Lyman dies, though with great waste of lube leaking out from around the bottom of where the die is. I know it's parts compatible with the rcbs lube-a-matic I, but I don't know what part to buy or if anything even needs replacing... I would just send it into them with their warranty, but I doubt it works for a lachmiller.

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  2. #2
    Boolit Master Jack Stanley's Avatar
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    Maybe call their service department and see if they can do anything ??

    Jack
    Buy it cheap and stack it deep , you may need it !

    Black Rifles Matter

  3. #3
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Stanley View Post
    Maybe call their service department and see if they can do anything ??

    Jack
    I doubt they're even in business, they sold the design to rcbs, it's identical to rcbs lube-a-matic I, unless you mean call rcbs

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  4. #4
    Boolit Master



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    NRA Benefactor 2004 USAF RET 1971-95

  5. #5
    Boolit Master Maven's Avatar
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    Arrow

    If you telephone RCBS' service desk for replacement parts for a Lachmiller Lub-A-Matic, they won't help you. OTOH, if you tell them you have a leaking RCBS machine, they're likely to assist you.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Jack Stanley's Avatar
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    My suggestion was to call RCBS , sorry for the confusion .

    Jack
    Buy it cheap and stack it deep , you may need it !

    Black Rifles Matter

  7. #7
    Boolit Bub
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    I called and the guy said he'd send me some parts for free, but I don't really see what parts are below the die that could be replaced to stop it leaking from there, there really should be a second o-ring at the bottom of the die or something at the bottom of that area like a felt seal or something.

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  8. #8
    Boolit Bub
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    If those parts don't work you think I can stick a thin o-ring below the die?

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by TupariSD View Post
    If those parts don't work you think I can stick a thin o-ring below the die?

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    It wouldn't hurt to put a groove on the bottom of a piece of round stock, and test it. If it worked, you could add grooves to the bottom of your sizing dies and use O-rings on both ends.

    You might be able to make a press in bushing to seal it from the bottom. It would need to be cleaned, and the right size to allow you to use the sizing dies. You could probably press it in, and use loctite to seal it.

    If at all possible, I'd put a shoulder on it, and press it in from the bottom.

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    Last edited by jimkim; 01-24-2018 at 05:23 PM.

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  10. #10
    Boolit Master dbosman's Avatar
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    I'm following this as I recently sold a Lachmiller that was fine here, but the new owner tells me it's leaking at the die bottom, for him.
    It wasn't TupariSD, as this was January 2018.
    RCBS is sending him some new bottom parts, but I've no idea of what.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master



    skeettx's Avatar
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    The sizing die MUST be seated all the way down to seal the hole
    Mike
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  12. #12
    Boolit Bub
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    It's screwed down as far as it goes, I wonder if maybe the new dies are slightly shorter or something now compared to back then

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  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
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    Every time l swap sizing dies l have to re-adjust my Lube A Matic. To me lts just part of the routine. 0ne lesson l have learned tho is the die type used... Thru experience l have found the older sizing dies with multiple holes require less adjustment and seem to lube easier than newer sizers with just one row of holes.. Now when l want or need another sizer die l tend to look for older multi holes on GB or Ebay... The older dies seem to work better for me

  14. #14
    Boolit Bub
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    Well if none of the rcbs parts work and switching only to rcbs lube-a-matic dies doesn't work I'll get in touch with the local gun an silencer factory a friend works at here, shouldn't cost a dime to add a second o-ring groove to a few dies with the state of the art equipment in that place (idk if you've heard of CGS Group but they make some wicked silencers and custom rifles)

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  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    That would be easy with a regular metal lathe. Probably take ten minutes to groove 15-20 dies once it's set up.

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  16. #16
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimkim View Post
    That would be easy with a regular metal lathe. Probably take ten minutes to groove 15-20 dies once it's set up.

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    No lathe or knowledge here.

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  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I discontinued use of the ratcheting wrench on the pressure screw's top end, and have a 1/8" box wrench now in its place. By backing the pressure off 1/4 to 1/3 full turn after sizing & lubing, lube leakage control became far less of a problem--lots less waste and lots less mess.

    Heat REALLY makes the bullet lubes I use expand significantly, too. Lube pressure is critical to making the stuff flow into bullet grooves, but it isn't necessary to exert same when there is no bullet in the sizer die.

    As I understand the concept of the bottom "seal" in the Lyman/Ideal/Lachmiller/RCBS sizing & lubing contraptions, the beveled bottom end of the H&I die is supposed to correspond to a beveled surface of similar size & angle at the die chamber's bottom end--much like a valve and valve seat in a piston engine. It would not take much of crud particle on either of those mating surfaces to cause leakage and attendant seal failure.
    I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.

  18. #18
    Boolit Bub
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    Even if I only apply pressure with a bullet in the die, way more leaks out and the grooves only get filled a little in the places near holes, the leakage is extremely profuse. Lyman HI dies are all I've tried so far, I'm going to try an rcbs tomorrow.

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  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Just to be clear--the leakage is coming from the bottom circumference of the die, and NOT from between the die's H (body) and I (drive pin)?
    I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.

  20. #20
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Just to be clear--the leakage is coming from the bottom circumference of the die, and NOT from between the die's H (body) and I (drive pin)? THAT would be different issue, worn die body and/or drive pin OR a shade-tree honing job to expand the sizer body without turning a new close-fitting drive pin.
    I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.

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