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Thread: coating with hi tek. what i'm doing wrong ?

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy glockfan's Avatar
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    coating with hi tek. what i'm doing wrong ?

    hi all at castboolit.long time lurker first time poster here.

    i must admit that i've started to be interested by casting my own boolits when one of my shooting buddy gave me couple of his cast boolits coated with HI TEK to try in one of my limited glocks . it's been an eye opening experience .really ; no fumes,no lube, no barrel fooling.....very clean and accurate rounds .

    before this day , i was reluctant to walk into casting because all it implies; lubing,resizing, ingot casting,bullet casting....and all the stages involved in the whole proces .

    did my own research to learn the ropes ,and then started buying moulds,furnace, collecting wheel weights, a lyman 4500 lubrisizer ; i'm currently working with a lyman 356637 9mm rnfp 147 , and a 401638 175grainer for my 40's.both are 4 cavities moulds. i'm also waiting for an NOE groovless mould in 40S&W.

    couple days ago i bought some hi tek powder in zombie green ,a can of acetone, and a hamilton beach convexion oven to get me started into boolit coating .

    ...and after my fisrt batch ever , here's the result which i think is really not what i should get as result.

    for the record i mixed 20grams of powder in 100ml of acetone.

    i had 1 pound of 9mm and 45acp boolits for my test , which i've put in a basket with 1ml of the hi tek mix , then shaked the basket for 20 seconds so the solvent evaporate and the mix stick to the boolits.

    settled the oven to 400f and cooked the first layer for 10 minutes. here what i got. the boolits were brown.
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    then after leaving the batch cooling down to room temp i resumed the process for a second pass in the oven. here what i got after 8 minutes at 400 .
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    i can add to this that when i proceeded to make the mix in a translucid jar,i added a jacketed boolit to help stiring the mix, BUT that boolit have an exposed base,and i'm wondering if it could be the reason as why my mix looke like that with a dark layer floating on top of the '''juice'''.
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    to conclude i can say that those boolits failed the acetone and hammer test. the coating is chipping away,and when i proceeded to the hammer test the coating peeled off after only one hit.

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    Those look to be too thickly coated to me. I tend to "thin" my mix with a little extra acetone. Very few of my 9s come out the bright green. They tend more toward olive drab or, if I bake them too long - brown. For some reason the 45s I run tend to end up lighter in color. Maybe they aren't getting as hot, more mass and all. My liquid also separates if I leave it for a bit, but a few seconds of shaking before application mixes it back together.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    Less mix and or more acetone. For reference I have to shake mine around for roughly 45 seconds too a minute before it evaporates in a 65 degree shop. The first coat should almost be see through. Secondly if you put them in still wet they will become course and may flake.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy glockfan's Avatar
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    thanks for the answers gents.it tells me that what i thought was a bad mix (with the dark layer over the mix) was in fact probably correct.

    from your replies i realize that coating with hi tek is a perfectible ''science'' in the sens that what works for one may not for someone else. seems like many factors are at play in this game. i'm wondering if i shouldn't have waited a bit to get a better oven? the temps in those cheap ovens fluctuates quite a bit, and i feel success with hi tek depends largely on the cooking part of the process!!

    i will try to make more-better with less lol. it looks like unanimity is made around the fact that less powder and more acetone would get me less chances of messing the first cooking session which seems to be a crucial part of the process? the 1st layer being the most important factor for a good finished product?

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    I like 20 g powder to 125 ml acetone and coat in a 5 quart bucket with 5 pounds of bullets so I have room to swirl the bullets and coating.

    Every one has different equipment so there is a leaning curve to get it to work, I remelted a lot of bullets when I started coating.

    Getting the 1st coat dry is the most important step I like to get the coated bullets over 100 deg F for 30 min to insure the 1 st coat is dry and over baking will not hurt the coating just makes it darker.

    There is a lot of good advice here, you just need to see what works with your equipment.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    For a reference on doing it, Missouri bullet company has a link on instructions to using the hitek 2 coating. Also gives somewhat of solutions to problems.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
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    I use more acetone, two thin coats better than one thicker coat. As noted in their instructions, swirl to coat, about 30sec is plenty. Don't crowd the container either, small batches will coat more evenly than one larger one. Shake the mixture well each time you apply it, especially the powder, it does like to separate a bit. I bake 10m in a preheated oven, cool 10m then recoat & dry 10m, then bake again, then water drop the final bake. Works for me. Last thing, check your oven temp. Your first coat looks like you burned the coating a bit. FWIW, you do not need anything to stir the mixture, take the bullet out.
    EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
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  8. #8
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    Ask the same question in 2 different places ---get the same answer
    (I do admire your quest for perfection and will try to help best I can)

    Almost all failures with Hi-Tek coating is from people not reading the instructions carefully and following them exactly.
    If something in the instructions doesn't look right to you, it doesn't mean it's wrong.
    The other point of failure is not testing the oven for proper heat (99.9% of oven heat settings are off , some up to 100°) and not baking the boolits long enough.

    My summary of what works well for me (and many others)
    try 10grms to 60 mil
    less than 1 mil solution to 1 # of boolits let the mix sit at least 30 min
    agitate the solution with a couple boolits in the container immediately before applying to boolits
    use 10 ml syringe to extract 10 mills solution squirt it back in th bottle, extract another 10 mills, squirt out what you don't need, apply the remaining solution to boolits (no more than 1 mil per #
    swirl-agitate no more than 20 seconds (5quart paint mixing bucket works well to small a container and you don't get a good coating action) [if the sound starts changing you've gone too long they are supposed to be damp when dumped]
    dump on screen/vented tray/basket and dry in front of a fan for 30 min
    set a tray on an oven for 10 min to pre-warm /insure 110% dry
    test oven with a thermometer set in the middle of bake shelf, adjust oven temp setting until the thermometer reads 400° I have a $20 convection oven from thrift store and $50 convection oven from anazon that do great
    bake 13 min, to begin with, if boolits are too dark, back the bake time off a couple minutes [to dark will pass the smash and rub test and are ok to shoot]
    make sure boolits are cool and pass smash and rub test before the second coat

    from the sellers web site http://hi-performancebulletcoatings....-instructions/

    COATING INSTRUCTIONS
    Powdered product is a complete package, for preparation of solvent-based coatings.

    Read the details below before starting.

    *Use adequate protective gear including chemical resistant gloves, safety glasses, a respirator adequate for painting and USE COMMON SENSE. You are dealing with chemicals and flammable liquids & solvents. Use in an area where there is adequate ventilation to remove solvent and oven fumes generated. Do not use any oven you intend to cook food in.

    TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT:

    1. HI-TEK-LUBE COATING, POWDERED VERSION and Pure Acetone, or M.E.K.
    2. The safety gear noted above.
    3. Measuring tools. (A set of cheap metal or plastic measuring spoons works well)
    4. Plastic containers to tumble/coat bullets in. (A small 5 liter bucket or disposable food containers are good, but any reasonably strong, clean plastic container should work)
    5. A container to mix the coating in. (A transparent or similar dispensing bottle with a thin nozzle does a great job) Ensure that coating and solvents do not affect containers used for mixing coatings.
    6. Waste newspaper, paper towels or waste rags and plastic sheeting to protect bench tops.
    7. Acetone. (This will be used to both mix the bullet coating and for clean-up)
    8. A well-ventilated area for working in. (Not your kitchen or basement). Use in an open garage, car port open to ventilation, and away from open flames)
    9. Flat wire baskets capable of holding the weight of bullets and withstanding the heat of the oven. (If you can’t find something adequate they are fairly easy and cheap to make from 1/4” wire Mesh or similar)

    10. An oven that can hold a temperature fairly well. You will need to test ovens ability to hold at set temperatures and temperature set accuracy. (A toaster oven with a circulation fan can, be obtained cheaply and works great)

    11. Clean lead bullets that have not been sized. If your bullets have wax, Alox, or any other lubricant on them, the acetone will dissolve it and contaminate the coating and you will experience failures.

    Clean lead will produce great coating, waxy or dirty lead will cause coating failure. Sized lead bullets may reduce adhesion of the coating to bond to the lead, as the sizing process can close the pores on the surface of the bullet.

    12. A little patience. Read the instructions fully BEFORE starting, and take your time.

    The coating process is not difficult but it can take a little practice to do it well.

    If it doesn’t go well the first time, go back and read the instructions again, usually a simple mistake is the problem. If you keep having problems contact us, we’ll be happy to help.
    WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE STARTING.:

    1. A little goes a LONG way, start out with the smallest amount you can mix and to coat around 200-300 bullets. If coating appears a little thin you can always recoat them again after baking.

    2. Two or three, or even four thin coats works great. Applying thick coats will be rough looking, and will probably crack and flake off during sizing or loading as it also may not cure correctly.

    3. Bullets with sharp edges and little flakes of lead hanging from them will coat fine, but during loading or sizing the flakes will usually break off and leave exposed lead. This isn’t the end of the world, but it can defeat the purpose of the coating. Smooth surfaces work better and the bullets tend to be more accurate.

    4. Allow the bullets to dry fully once they are coated.

    If they go into the oven wet, the coating will bubble up and look rough, and the fumes are harsh and can be flammable. Give adequate time to dry, don’t rush drying, the warmer and drier the space you work in the better. Coating may take as little as 10 minutes to several hours to dry. This is dependent on the ambient temperature and humidity.

    5. Having several batches of bullets rotating through the oven at once will speed things up quite a bit, but wait until you get the hang of it before trying it. Once you have successfully done three or four batches of bullets you’ll feel like an old pro.

    6. When you mix the coating, it’s better to have too much solvent than to have too little. Thick coats = bad bullets, thin coats = good bullets. A LIGHT STAIN IS BEST!

    7. Experiment with your mix a little if your results aren’t what you want. Adding or taking away powder will usually cause coating failure. However, a little “fiddling” with the amount of Acetone can really make a difference depending on your working conditions.

    8. For mix ratios of the powdered coating should be 20 grams (309 grains) to 100 milliliters
    (3.3 – 3.4 ounces) of acetone. Use a mask and be careful, the fumes coming from the coating mix is NOT something you want to breathe.

    9. Wear work clothes or an apron and cover your work area with a plastic sheeting, if you want to avoid stains. The first few times you use the coating it will be messy. Even after you get the hang of it it’s not a particularly clean process.

    10. Reloading with HI-TEK-LUBE coated bullets should be done using quality reloading equipment with data obtained from a reloading manual. Use loading data that is normally used for your particular bullet and application. We do NOT provide ammunition loading data.

    11. HI-TEK-LUBE coated bullets, most should be sized without further lubrication. Some harder alloys, or drastic size reduction requirements, additional lubes such as Hi-Tek 500 or Hi-Tek 5000 lubes can be used to reduce loads on sizing equipment.
    STEP BY STEP COATING INSTRUCTIONS

    1. Get a measuring spoon, mixing bottle, coating (the catalyst is built into the powdered Hi-Tek)

    and solvent. Mix 20 grams (309 grains) of powdered coating to 100ml (3.3-3.4 ounces) of acetone.

    Note: In Hot/Dry climates you can substitute 25% of the Acetone and replace it with a like amount of Denatured Alcohol. This will slow down solvent evaporation and allow a slightly longer swirl/tumble time.

    The coating separates in the bottle pretty quickly, so you’ll need to shake it well to make sure it’s mixed. Dropping a bullet into the bottle of coating before shaking will speed this up a LOT, as the suspended solids in the coating will settle to the bottom and stick.

    The bullet will bounce around like the marble in an aerosol paint can and mix things thoroughly.

    2. Turn on your oven to reach about 200C (385-400 degrees Fahrenheit).

    3. Put the lid on the mixing bottle, cover the tip of the spout and shake for a few seconds to get everything mixed. During this shaking a small amount of pressure will build in the bottle, be careful when you take your uncover the spout, or the mix can spray out with the pressure.

    4. Pour a VERY SMALL amount (we recommend 1 ml per pound of bullets) of mixture in the container uncovered with the bullets and start shaking. Shake them and rattle them around pretty rapidly, a good rule of thumb is to shake them as hard as you can without shaking them out of the container. Keep shaking for 15 to 20 seconds and do not allow the solvent to evaporate, which will happen quickly. (You will hear a distinct change in the sound of the bullets rattling around when the solvent evaporates).

    5. After shaking for 15-20 seconds, empty coated projectiles onto a wire mesh or basket. Make sure there is room under the basket for air to circulate and allow even drying.

    Spread them out until they are not touching each other. At this point the coating will be thin and a little sticky and you should still see lead through it fairly easily.

    If the coating looks rough or has a lumpy surface you likely used too much mixture, not enough solvent, or shook to long. This is not a big deal; just run them through like that or the uncured coating can be washed off with clean solvent and re-coated.

    6. While the bullets are drying, cap the bottle with the mix still in it and set it aside, and store out of sunlight and keep cool. The same mixture will be needed for the next round of coating. You can speed up the drying process by using a fan to blow onto the bullets, but don’t rush it; the bullets need to be fully dried before they are baked. Thinner coats dry faster and more completely.

    7. Once the bullets are fully dried and the oven is set, put them in for 8-12 (NOTE: the wide swing in cure times is due to the wide variety and quality of ovens in use. You will need to experiment with your particular oven and its ability to adapt to load that is placed installed) minutes to cure the coating. Watch the bullets for the first few minutes. If the coating starts to bubble, the bullets weren’t fully dried. Again, not a big deal, just allow a little more drying time on the next coat, and it will help to use a little more solvent or a smaller amount of mixed coating with the next batch to speed drying. The coating may change color slightly during baking, don’t worry, it’s normal.

    8. Once the bullets are baked take them out and let them cool fully before the next application of coating and test to make sure coating has cured properly.

    If the bullets are coated hot, the solvent will evaporate too quickly and the coating will be lumpy and rough looking. After the bullets are thoroughly cooled inspect them, the coating should be fairly smooth and even, and should not scratch easily with a fingernail. See testing on final page.

    9. Repeat the process (usually two coats will do, but feel free to experiment) until the coating completely covers the bullet and little or no lead can be seen through it.

    10. Size and load your coated bullets with appropriate Lead Bullet loading data from your favorite reloading manual.
    TESTING THE BULLETS

    Remove one or two bullets from the batch of bullets you have just coated after they have cooled to room temperature. Use a rag or paper towel and moisten with acetone. Rub the test bullets back and forth for 30 seconds. If proper curing has been obtained, there should not be any of the coating removed from the bullet and the towel should be free of any colour transfer from the bullet.

    If it fails this test, STOP, and start over.

    Failures can be caused from low bake temperatures, improper bake time, not allowing to totally dry, too much coating used, or wrong mix ratio and of course dirty or contaminated cast alloys..

    Remember, it is better to use a little too much acetone and have VERY thin multiple coats as opposed to one thick heavy coat!

    NEXT IS THE “SMASH TEST”

    Place the above bullets on the floor or other sturdy object (use some common sense here and not the good dining room table) and literally smash the bullet with one blow. Check to see of the coating has become brittle by flaking off.

    If this has happened, the bullet has failed the test and you must start over. This failure is caused by either too high of a temperature when curing, curing/baking time to long, or coating was applied to thin.

    If after baking, the color is Tan going towards Brown, the cooking time or temperatures were not correct. (Usually too hot or too long of time in oven or a combination of both).

    BASIC DATA AND MIX RATIOS

    POWDER.
    Mix 20 grams (309 grains) of powdered coating to 100ml (3.3-3.4 ounces) of acetone. .
    Bake Temperature: 385-400) Degrees Fahrenheit (200C)
    Bake Time: Approximately 10 Minutes, and will depend on oven, air circulation and loading.
    Initial drying Time: Normally 10-30 Minutes.

    However, depending on ambient temperature and humidity levels,

    the drying time may take substantially longer. (1-24 hours)

    Note: In Hot/Dry climates you can substitute 25% of the Acetone and replace it with a like amount of Denatured Alcohol. This will slow down solvent evaporation and allow a slightly longer swirl/tumble time.

    SAFETY NOTICE

    Solvent and vapors are highly flammable.

    TAKE CARE. USE IN WELL VENTILTED AREAS

    (Use common sense).

    PLEASE BE CAREFUL when handling toxic metals (Lead or its alloys) and chemicals.

    All precautions should be taken, to minimize exposures to user from Lead contact,

    and coatings & mixtures.

    THIS IS NOT POWDER COATING AND SHOULD NOT BE USED AS SUCH!

    HI-TEK POWDERED COATING PRODUCTS NEEDS TO BE FIRST MIXED WITH A SOLVENT, PRIOR TO USE AND TUMBLE COATED ONTO YOUR BULLETS.

    IT SHOULD NOT BE ATOMIZED, SPRAYED ONTO, OR ATOMIZED ONTO YOUR BULLETS,

    EITHER IN POWDER, OR IN A LIQUID FORM!

    FOR FURTHER ADVICE CONTACT THE MANUFACTURER or SUPPLIER

    Donnie, hope you don't mind my coppying this

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy glockfan's Avatar
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    thanks for the reminder GRMPS......

    for a starter like me, the hi tek procedure sure looks quite busy.

    the IF's and '''do''' and '''don't '''' are maybe a little of a deterent .

    but i'm going to try this again in couple days....the only part i dislike being that,with the cost related to the hi tek powder, messing a batch is quite costy. messing couple batch back to back is somehow discouraging....

    i really think that a good oven dedicated to the specific hi tek purpose would make my life easier . i only have a small hamilton beach convection oven ,and i can only cook a little amount of boolits at a time.....i'm now checking for a larger oven...i know it's not mandatory, but i see a larger convection oven as a time saver. i'm not retired (yet) and my time is kind of gold,so i want to be able to work with as many boolits as possible, not talking about the fact that a better oven implies a better control over the temps stability ....i'm using a temp meter device inside the oven so i'm getting a more accurate reading, but i feel this is not enough .

  10. #10
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    I never Mix 20 grams (309 grains) of the powdered coating to 100ml (3.3-3.4 ounces) of acetone. .
    I always cut it in half Mix 10 grams (155 grains) of the powdered coating to 50ml (1.7 ounces) of acetone. .
    You could do 5 grams to 25 mil but at this smaller quantity, you need to be more accurate on measuring.

    If you have stuff mixed that's too thick it's easy to thin down with acetone or MEK.
    Better too thin than too thick. With too thin, you just need more coats to make it look good

    You can even salvage coating material that accumulates on your swirling bucket but that's for another day.

    I have done tons (literally) of boolits on Hamilton Beach 31331 Convection Toaster Oven $59 prime I use it for PC & HiTek
    I can bake 8# of boolits at a time on my bake screens (boolits have to be on a vented tray/screen/basket to have air flow for efficient heating) I use this tray for HiTek and PC [a wire shelf from an office paper-sorter with on side bent to fit my oven and the end blocked with aluminum angle rivited on.


    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    notice wire rack on top of the oven to work as a spacer for setting my bake tray on to pre-warm [confirm 110% dry] coated boolits (for 1 bake cycle -12-min) before putting in oven. Kitchen vent fan venting off gasses out of the garage. the vent also removes fumes from casting, thats why it's not centerd over the oven and has a state-of-the-art off gas deflector shield.

    First step test temperature setting with thermometers placed in middle of bake shelf and mark dial where it needs to be to obtain 400° after this initial test I have not had to adjust the temperature IF your oven is somewhere there the surounding temperature varries alot, I would test it everytime I use it when I warm up the oven and adjust the oven tmperature setting as needed for that days bake
    The second step I lined the bottom of my oven with ceramic BBQ briquettes to maintain heat and increase recovery time from opening the door [any material the retains heat will work like fire brick, blocks of metal or ???]

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
    Ausglock's Avatar
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    GF. It is easy to get good coated bullets. Don't overthink it.
    It you coating looks too thin before you bake, then it is the CORRECT AMOUNT OF COATING. too much coating will cause fails.

    Use a syringe so that you are using the right amount. don't try and bake too many at once. these small ovens get overloaded easily and you will not get to temp.

    Once you get it, you will wonder how the hell you stuffed it up to start with...
    Coated and baked 25,000 yesterday. sizing and baking more today..
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy glockfan's Avatar
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    ausglock...25Ks ? pffft...i'm jealous LOL!! i hope to becomes as proefficient in a very near futur .

    GRMPS...i have the exact same oven...the temp is dancing quite a bit when you open the door to slip a tray in...then the irons is getting red to climb up to the temp you asked it for....sometimes, the temp is climbing higher than desired so i have to turn the adjustment knob back to get the temp down to 400....but probably ausglock is right ,i'm maybe overthinking it...i should maybe just look through the oven's window and when they look right,i'm pulling them out to see ......

  13. #13
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
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    While that long (thorough) explanation of Grmps may look a bit intimidating at first, once you get into it and understand just what is happening it's actually not that complicated. Temperature control in a small oven can be an issue, though, as the simple thermostats can cause a wide swing in temperature. When I open the door on my small oven the temp drops by up to 30*C but comes back up within 3 mins. The PID makes life much simpler for this task.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
    Ausglock's Avatar
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    Lay a clay paver block in the bottom of your oven. it will act as a heat sink and help with temp recovery.
    Hooroo.
    Regards, Trevor.
    Australia

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy glockfan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ausglock View Post
    Lay a clay paver block in the bottom of your oven. it will act as a heat sink and help with temp recovery.
    ok ausglock. i'm gonna try this simple fix to see if it speed up the recovery time.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    Here is my version of "stain",first coat before baking:

    Attachment 225099

    Here it is after the bake:

    Attachment 225100

    I had a problem with "stain" word because my steel-looking,tin-rich contaminated alloy really got "stained", not coated. I thought I was doing fine... but I got flaking after the third bake. The first coat looked like small " stains" on glass.

    Here you can see my alloy as it is (9mm boolits in the middle)and after HCL wash.

    Attachment 225101

    I think there are quite a few other WW-Mystery Metal people out there who might benefit from cleaning their boolits. HCL wash gives me very,very good bonding.

    I do use a diluted version for the first coat,easier to shake , especially in this hot weather. A thin first coat works very well for me.

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy
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    Zombie green is a hard color to work with the first pic was cook too long and too hot, the second one not long enough I could not get it right at first until i threw away the toaster oven and used the one in the house if you dont have a accurate temperature gauge it is impossible to get rite.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shingle View Post
    Zombie green is a hard color to work with the first pic was cook too long and too hot, the second one not long enough I could not get it right at first until i threw away the toaster oven and used the one in the house if you dont have a accurate temperature gauge it is impossible to get rite.
    I hope you don't plan on cooking food in that oven anymore. A decent countertop convection oven will do you a good job (apr $50 I've found good ones in thrift stores for $20)

    a couple of these (less than $5 ea) on the shelf you bake on to confirm the temperature.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    A cup is 8 ounces, so 1/2 cup is 4 ounces.
    So the acetone is easy to measure.
    What volume measuring container is used to 309 grains of the coating powder.
    Spoons are parts of cup for the powder?
    There has to be a volume measure for the 309'grains of coating powder?

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by bstone5 View Post
    A cup is 8 ounces, so 1/2 cup is 4 ounces.
    So the acetone is easy to measure.
    What volume measuring container is used to 309 grains of the coating powder.
    Spoons are parts of cup for the powder?
    There has to be a volume measure for the 309'grains of coating powder?
    The powder does not measure accurately by volume as some of the colors are denser than others so it should always be measured by weight. I use a stainless 1/4 cup measure as a scale pan on my Digital scale.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check