Dip or spray Lube options

[ohnomrbillk]

I currently use lanolin-castor oil mixture for my Lube needs.

In my Corbin dies, very little to zero Lube is recommended in the two step core seat of the boat tail dies.

I'm venturing into subsonic Bullets with the X shaped core seat punch. It is considered most helpful if you lube the X shaped core cavity with lube prior to point form.

I will also need to lube the outside of the jacket prior to point form.

I'm considered a dip lube to accomplish both in one step. Dillon case lube is just lanolin and isopropyl alcohol. I think it is too thin for point form. It may work for the lubrication of the core cavity.

Has anyone here came up with a different lube to dip components, drain the excess, and allow the solvent to evaporate off?

[MUSTANG]

I use my home made version of Dillon Lube for Swaging my Jackets in core seating and Point forming. Make it with 4 ounces Liquid Lanolin and 16 ounces of Swan Isopropyl alcohol.

I use a couple drops of Dish soap as lube in my Cast cores before swaging, then wash the lead cores in water to remove soap residue.

[ohnomrbillk]

I use my home made version of Dillon Lube for Swaging my Jackets in core seating and Point forming. Make it with 4 ounces Liquid Lanolin and 16 ounces of Swan Isopropyl alcohol.

I use a couple drops of Dish soap as lube in my Cast cores before swaging, then wash the lead cores in water to remove soap residue.

Which liquid lanolin are you using? I’ve only used pharmaceutical grade anhydrous, but it is very thick.

How do you apply your lube to the jackets?

[BlackoutBuilder]

I just keep a tin of lube on the press, and dip the tip before swaging.

[just bill]

I use my home made version of Dillon Lube for Swaging my Jackets in core seating and Point forming. Make it with 4 ounces Liquid Lanolin and 16 ounces of Swan Isopropyl alcohol.

I use a couple drops of Dish soap as lube in my Cast cores before swaging, then wash the lead cores in water to remove soap residue.

I've been following this information about lube for a while, however I never noticed the soap lube thing before, quite simple and looks effective, gonna try it.

[MUSTANG]

Which liquid lanolin are you using? I’ve only used pharmaceutical grade anhydrous, but it is very thick.

How do you apply your lube to the jackets?

I use this Liquid Lanolin ( https://www.amazon.com/Now-Foods-Sol.../dp/B00028MLKC ) mixed with 16 Ounces of Swan ~97% alcohol. I have 2lbs of lanolin I bought from Randy Rat (here on this site) a couple years ago. But, have not mixed any of his lanolin yet because the spray I had previously mixed has lasted for several years. I use this for both swaging and sizing brass. During cooler temps; might have to shake just a bit to get settled lanolin off the bottom of the spray bottle and remixed.

My spray lube is mixed and poured back into the (2) Dillon Spray Lube bottles I bought years ago. My preferred method of dispensing is to spray a RCBS Lube Pad with 4 to 6 spritzes; and then roll the Jackets (or brass cases) over the lube pad when the alcohol is evaporated off/soaked into the pad.

[Zbench]

Bill, try just straight castor oil. You can find a small bottle in the drug store to test out. I use it straight when I draw jackets, it is much more slippery than castor oil and any lanolin mix. I get direct feedback on the hydraulic dial pressure when I draw jackets. Castor oil is about 75-100# less pressure for any given operation. It's easier to clean off than the lanolin mix as well. I take an ordinary paper towel and get it soaked with the castor oil and then use it to either roll the jacket on or wipe. Leaves a thin film, not sure why this isn't the go to lube for all swaging operations.

[just bill]

Z, thanks, however how do you remove the oil? I thought most of these threads and posts were about removing the lube from the cores prior to point forming due to things like case separation and the like.
Bill

[Zbench]

I dunk mine in lacquer thinner followed with hot water in detergent. Works great. There is no magic herb and spices to remove grease from metal. You need something to dissolve it, and then something to remove the residue. When I am core bonding, which is most of the time, I don't bother with the detergent step. The thinner rinse it good enough!

[ohnomrbillk]

Thanks for everyone’s input.

I plan on trying several of these options and will report back with outcome.

[BT Sniper]

Tumble lube is a very good way to regulate just how much lube to use and get an even coat on all your jackets or cores.

Simply need a rotating tumbler and a clean bucket of some sort. Figure out how much lube to use per weight of your jackets then throw it all together and tumble for specific time. I'm a bit vague with the numbers as one typically needs to find out what works best for their specifics.

For my deriming, core seating and point forming, I typically use 1-2 grains of lube per pound of empty jackets, more or less as needed. I use the 50/50 mix of lanolin and castor oil. Will be trying Woolite soon to remove lube from bullets.

For core swage (bleed die) operations it is less critical what exact type of lube you use and in my opinion probably better to use a lube that rinses off easily, I'm getting tired of the mineral spirits smell and cost. Now days I like to use standard RCBS case lube II for only my core swage (bleed die) operations. It rinses off easily leaving no residue that I can detect. I also now like to derim with the same RCBS lube as it is easier to remove from the 22lr brass after it has been derimed. I have tried dawn dish soap for core swage but it was a bit of a mess and seemed to "diesel" under pressure but I was using quite a bit of it bleeding 600 grain 50 BMG cores.

For core seat and point form a good quality lube is still required. I have had no issues with the 50-50 mix of lanolin and castor oil and it is easy to apply in a tumbler using a simple clean container of some sorts, it is a good way to be "consistent" which just might help in making more accurate bullets.

Research as much as you can what the benchrest bullet makers are doing then give it all a try and find out what works best for you. We have a 'helpful links to swaging" sticky here with some very good websites for such info.

Here is a good link to some great info from some of the best bullet makers past and present.....

http://www.benchrest.com/FAQ/1.shtml

Swage on!

BT

[marcusp323]

Good read Brian. Think my favorite line had something to do with constant learning.
Reckon sometimes that means finding out how to do something wrong a bit before figuring out what works best for you
Mark

[BT Sniper]

Check out this thread and the process used for applying lube and how much..... pretty incredible thread,

http://singleactions.proboards.com/t...-rifle?page=28