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Thread: Aluminum vs Iron for a beginner caster

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Aluminum vs Iron for a beginner caster

    I am still new to this. I have a few molds, most are Lee. I have one Accurate 5-cavity that is very nicely made.

    Is it possible I've stunted my learning by using Aluminum? I find that I can never keep the temperature right. I'm either too frosty or wrinkled...or I've got hot and cold spots.

    Would iron, with it's more even heat retention, be easier for an inexperienced caster to refine his talent with?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Yodogsandman's Avatar
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    Yes, I believe that iron molds are less touchy. Aluminum molds aren't that bad, though. Using a hot plate to pre-heat your mold would make a huge difference. Keep casting without checking or inspecting your bullets until you notice that they start to frost over. Then you can relax a little and keep an even cadence going. Good luck!
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  3. #3
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    I mostly use aluminum molds. You are right that they aren't the most temp stable. I dip the corner of the mold in the melt for 20 seconds to warm it. Then I have a wet sponge that I tap the mold to every 2 or 3 cast. I watch how long it takes the sprue to solidify. I will fall into a tempo. I got a couple iron molds a couple months back. I find they take longer to warm up but its much easier to keep slow steady tempo to keep the mold temp stable. I don't have to tap it on a wet sponge to keep it from getting too hot. I don't think its a short coming to use aluminum. For the price of lee molds, it is a great starting point. Principles are still the same. Once your good with that mold you will be good with iron molds after a slight adjustment. I do want to try a brass mold though.

    Took me almost a year before I learned how to get consistent shiny bullets. I cast fast until I can work the sprue with a gloved hand. Then adjust the tempo to keep about at that zone.
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  4. #4
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    I use both iron and aluminum molds, and a Lee 10lb 'drip-o-matic.' I made a lip for the furnace from a tin can lid which covers the top but has a cutout for the operating rod. As I am heating up the pot, I place the molds (iron or Al.) on the lid so when the melt is at temp, so are the molds. While casting, I place an ingot on the top edge so it is preheating before it goes in the pot. I know my mold temp is right when the sprue cools in 3-5 seconds when casting with only one mold. When using 2 molds, I turn up the heat a bit and alternate molds. BTW, I do have a lead thermometer but cast for 40 years without one. It turns out I was getting the temps I wanted by eye for all these years.

    As far as the 'drip-o-matic' part, I learned from a few folks here. Every once in a while, I will cast about 5 lbs and then drop the last 5 lbs into ingots and let the pot cool. It doesn't take long when it is empty. Anyway, I fill the pot 1/3 with water and tun it back on. It doesn't take long for the water to heat up after which I just drain the water. The steam and hot water in the pot helps get rid of residual crud. I maybe do this every 100lbs of casting or so. I started fluxing a long while ago using used ground walnut from my tumbler. It gives me a good flux, and the impurities seem to bond with the ash from the walnut nicely. It also doesn't seem to stick as much to the operating rod and travel down to the spout. I also keep a safety pin with a right angle bend at the tip as a spigot tool. That works pretty dandy.
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  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I always felt that iron molds were more forgiving and easier to cast with. I would not say that you stunted your learning but you may have had some difficulties that discouraged you. But if you learned how to cast good bullets with an aluminum mold then you will be amazed when you try an iron mold.

  6. #6
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    ... and then you haven't lived well until you get a brass mold!
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  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master OS OK's Avatar
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    I don't think it makes any difference at all...starting with steel or aluminum.
    You have several aspects to learn about casting, have to learn what effect each has on the pot, the mould and what that does to the casts.
    * You must manage the pot temp...prolly one of the most difficult things to relate to casting. It's not just 'too hot or too cold', depends on the particular mould and whether or not it is rifle or pistol cast and how many cavities. Moulds are heat sinks & don't behave exactly the same.
    Pot management requires adjustment of the heat control knob as the pot empties...you need an accurate thermometer for that. Pot temperature tends to swing slowly and then overshoot the desired temperature because of the nature of heat transfer. So...that means 'staying ahead' of the temperature somewhat. You'll see.

    At first it may be a bit overwhelming because we tend to focus on the spout, filling the mould and the sprue...meanwhile we casually look up and the pot is headed over 800*F. ! Dang, what's going on here?

    * Managing the mould temperature manages the 3~5 second 'freeze time' of the sprue. This just means having your cadence at a rate that allows the heat you just poured into the mould to bleed off by 100*F. or so. If it doesn't bleed off into the atmosphere or a damp cloth or into another means, it'll just remain in the mould. Sprues will take longer to freeze and eventually you'll open the mould before the casts are set and frozen...you generally only do that once though . I like to set my mould on that big aluminum base of the Lee pot, that'll suck the heat right out of the mould quick. After the sprue freezes, it still sits there for a couple of seconds as I reach to pick it up...that's part of the 'pace' you'll develop for yourself.

    I could go on and on so I'll stop here...basically it's about observing, watching and relating 'what causes what'...for instance, if your cast go from shiny to frosty, look at the thermometer...how hot is it that causes frosty in 'this mould'...remember that. That particular mould will react the same time after time so long as you don't change any other aspects like casting in freezing weather or a blistering hot day or in front of a fan.

    Every little detail relates to everything else...the better you understand that the sooner you will be able to pull a mould from the stable and cast good cast right off the bat.
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  8. #8
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    I have a brass mold coming in from MP - right now the only mold I have is iron. What is the learning curve going to be with a brass mold? New to casting after a 45+ year break. Only used a friends iron mold back in early 70's.

  9. #9
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    I learned on iron, It took a while to learn to use Al. I now prefer Al as it is much lighter and comes in 6 cavity for speed.
    Get a hot plate to preheat your mold. It works much better than setting on top of the pot, of dipping the mold.
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  10. #10
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    Right! The main difference you will notice after an hour or so of casting is the weight! A lifetime of casting with either iron or brass will make for some mighty strong wrists!! Enjoy!

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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by OS OK View Post
    I don't think it makes any difference at all...starting with steel or aluminum.
    I agree. I currently have 67 molds in various calibers, manufacturers and block type. I still have the first mold I ever cast with, which is a single cavity Lee 30-150F circa 1969. I have never "worn out" a mold and generally prefer aluminum for long casting sessions. I think that Miha's and Al's molds are works of art and have a couple of new ones on order from each of them. The point being that each type of mold may require an adjustment to the manner in which you cast. There is a learning process (at least for me) to each mold. The molds that get the least use from me are the steel Lymans. They are the most tempermental.
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  12. #12
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    My personal preference is iron for moulds. I grew up casting with iron moulds and just plain like it. However, I have aluminum, brass and iron moulds. All three materials work just fine.

    Lee aluminum moulds are quite soft and can be easily damaged if you don't treat them fairly gently but in my opinion that is the only downside. NOE aluminum is high quality but still soft compared to iron or brass.

    Of course all moulds should be treated gently in use... don't beat on them! Don't slam them shut! Clean them off and store them properly when you are done casting.

    I only have four Lee moulds currently but all work well and cast as they are supposed to. I did have to "Leement" two of them but a minor issue in my opinion. They cast just fine now.

    I think aluminum heats up faster and is a little less stable but you take care of that by casting at a steady cadence and cooling the mould if required as OS OK says above.

    If I had to pick one material it would be iron but all three work for me.

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  13. #13
    Boolit Master MyFlatline's Avatar
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    I started with aluminum and have never felt a need to change. I think it is more preference than anything. Frosty bullets don't bother me. Most all mine are frosty, I have to cast a bit hotter do to the copper in the mix..

  14. #14
    Boolit Master dkf's Avatar
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    I like to cast fast so I use mostly aluminum molds, they shed heat quicker for fast casting. I have a bunch of iron and brass molds (actually have an iron mold on the way as I type) and they cast well, aluminum just suits me better. If you delve into iron molds just store them right or you will get rust, you can be surprised how fast they can build it. It always helps if you can control your mold temperature. Find a casting pace and melt temperature that yields good bullets and try to hold both consistently as possible.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    I learned on a 6-cav Lee. Didn’t stunt my growth any.

  16. #16
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    I have all three, aluminum, iron & brass. All work well for me, but for quality boolits the iron molds from RCBS are hard to beat. Yeah, only 2 cavity, but I'll take quality over quantity every time.

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Aluminum is good you just need to experiment with temp and cadence more you will find what they like. Sometimes casting with 2 moulds together smooths out the temp swings some. It gives the blocks a little time to dissipate the heat and allows them to stay at an even temp thru. Iron moulds are good and again take some experimentation to find the way. Brass moulds at e the least finiky I have cast with as far as cadence and temps. Once up to temp brass stays there much easier.

    Experiment with alloy temps adjusting up or down as needed not changing your cadence. A lead thermometer is handy here to know what temps your running. A hot plate to pre heat moulds on is also a plus. Having them warmed starting out makes a big difference. Again the lead thermometer can be a plus here to know the blocks temp. Ussually in the 350-400* range is a good starting point.

    Once the correct temp is found. experiment with cadence casting faster and slower to smooth things out more. Also try using to moulds together.Cdence and a pause time can ake a big difference.

    Keep in mind heat cycling a mould to 400*-450*and allowing it to cool 3-4 times helps to break it in. It burns any remaining contaminants out of the blocks and helps to establish the patina that helps a mould to cast good bullets.Other wise the blocks may fight you for 3-4 sessions while it breaks in.

    A stenogrophers notebook and notes on what works and didn't for each mould can be a help starting out. It allows you to track and sort everything done.

  18. #18
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    I would go with aluminum. Lee is a good place to start, weight and price favor them. Get a hot plate and a thermometer that goes to 1000 so you can monitor your lead in the melter. I have at least one Lee mold for anything I would reload. NOE (Al's) has some nicer molds than Lee's and offers some additional choices such as hollow point or hollow base, sizes suited to worn military bores, plain base & gas check in same mold etc. His 4 cavities are a nice balance between weight and productivity. Heavy stuff even the three cavity are 50% more productive than a two cavity. Don't have any MP's molds but they are supposed to be very nice.

    What happened with me is I got the Lee's for revolver calibers and then an NOE or two for less common sizes and weights in rifle. Heavy .223 and oversized for a 303 Enfield. Then a WC mold was for sale that was iron and I got that, and then a shotgun slug mold also iron and then some Lee's in rifle and then.... back to NOE for a group buy on a .32 ACP mold. In short they all make bullets, I have to manage the same variables of speed, temp, and pour rate to make any of them work. They are different as described by others but all of them can serve to cast lead alloy into fun stuff.

    If you consider you can be casting for .45 .38 and 30 caliber for less than $60 in two cavity molds you can see why many find a reason to buy the Lee's and if your gun likes the bullet their 6 cavity is a good deal.
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  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    A good iron mold is great,but no matter how good,if you cast big bullets,the long cooling period really slows you down.....if you get impatient,you end up with bent bullets.I think I cast say 45/450gn twice as quick with a al mold.......but I dont buy any ali molds at iron prices......

  20. #20
    Boolit Master Drew P's Avatar
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    Had my most trouble with my premium brass mold. I like aluminum best.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check