I have a friends rifle that he cant remove the bolt from as the release does not work correctly, I can remover it by manually pushing the release pin down if i take it out of the stock, right now I have the trigger soaking to see if it's just crud inside of it(he bought it used) does anyone have any ideas or solutions?
We were brothers then, we are brothers now, we are brothers forever. Currahee
Pushing the safety forward releases the bolt. See if there is crud or debris stopping the safety movement. It is a pretty simple mechanism. It should be apparent if something is broke or blocking the lever. Otherwise cleaning the gunk may do the trick.
What he said.Originally Posted by Rick Hodges
Please describe this "release pin".
I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
The BHN Deformation Formula, and why I don't use it.
How to find and fix sizing die eccentricity problems.
Do you trust your casting thermometer?
A few musings.
Are you pushing the safety forward as far as it will go to remove the bolt ? ? ?
yes as far forward as it will go, it is the pin that the safety pushes down when you push the safety forward and pull the trigger at the same time to release the bolt
We were brothers then, we are brothers now, we are brothers forever. Currahee
i think its just dirty and have it soaking right now , will check on it tomorrow. Its the bolt stop pin.
We were brothers then, we are brothers now, we are brothers forever. Currahee
Have you had the barreled action out of the stock ?
When you push the safety forward, you should see the " stop pin " ( it comes out of the trigger assembly and positions itself so the bolt will not fall out of the receiver during normal use ) drop so that the bolt will release.
I assume at the point in time, that isn't happening ? ?
Ben
the pin will only come out ti where it is suppose to be for bolt removal if you push it down manually, there is spring tension on it thats what makes be believe its dirty. i do have it out of the stock as thats the only way you can get the bolt out right now. i had the same problem on a 22 From remington and its dirty from setting for years of non use.
We were brothers then, we are brothers now, we are brothers forever. Currahee
Keep us posted on your progress.
If all else fails, Timmney makes a replacement trigger for the 788. My 788 was badly gummed up from long term storage. After some much needed TLC, it cleaned up nicely. You may find it necessary to soak the trigger assembly in carb. cleaner if fouling can not be removed by other methods..
If you can remove the bolt when the action is out of the stop, and you can't when mounted (action in stock), I'm wondering if there is insufficient clearance in the stock inletting.
I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
The BHN Deformation Formula, and why I don't use it.
How to find and fix sizing die eccentricity problems.
Do you trust your casting thermometer?
A few musings.
if a good soaking doesnt do it , you may have to take it apart and really clean it, as lots of years of dust/dirt,and wd40 can leave behind a concrete like substance.
I have removed the safety from 3 different 788s to give them the detailed cleaning. Move slowly on your first 788 and remember what goes where, then any others after that first one will be much easier. Every one of those safeties I opened up was full of dried oil or grease or french fries or whatever else could find its way there. Its amazing how a simple clean & lube activity can restore a poorly functioning safety back to reliability.
You don't pull the trigger, only push the safety forward on a 788. I have some 788 trigger parts if you find something amiss.
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I figured out whats not working properly, it's the safety plunger, it is not retracting when you push the safety forward causing it to hang up in the detent in the safety lever. Question is could you relieve that area on the back side of the safety lever so they plunger will work smoother or am i making sense? i can just remove the lever by pulling one pin and one screw.
We were brothers then, we are brothers now, we are brothers forever. Currahee
I would mask the plastic button with painters tape to protect it, then blast that trigger with carb cleaner to de-crud it. Then light oil if needed. Worth a shot.
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Thats exactly what I am doing right now, to be honest i overlooked this at first as i forgot about that darn thing. I have read that if the plunger dont work correctly it can cause this to happen. I almost have him talked into just biting the bullet and putting a Timney in it. I just can't give up that easily though..
We were brothers then, we are brothers now, we are brothers forever. Currahee
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