Iver Johnson Second Model 32

[Traffer]

I am looking at a Iver Johnson Second Model small frame 5 shot 32 at my local pawn shop. It has all of the nickel worn off but the gun locks up tight and the rifling is very good. I would like one of these for a shooter. I would reload for it but would rather not have to use black powder. I don't know much about old wheel guns and the black powder days. I never thought I would be loading for something like that. Could I use something like pyrodex for it? Or should I even consider shooting such a gun. They want $120 for it. If I can get if for $100 and can shoot it (with pyrodex or even black powder) I might buy it. Any suggestions or info would be appreciated.

[Traffer]

If it helps to date it the Serial number has a "F" prefix

[NoZombies]

I would avoid pyrodex either way. I've loaded for a number of similar guns using a lightweight (70-85 grains) bullet and a grain of bullseye. The lyman 313249 is usually a good shooter in the .32 S&W

[hporter]

Traffer,

I am glad you posted this. I broke the lifter on my Iver Johnson hammerless 32 a few years ago. Your post reminded me that I needed the part and I was able to find it this morning online. Thank you.

This link has some information about whether these old revolvers are smokeless or black powder only. https://www.gunvaluesboard.com/smoke...lver-2824.html

I bought mine for a similar price to what you mentioned. They are fun to shoot. If you have the extra spending money and don't mind loading for it, you should give it a try.

My top break .32 S&W is the two pin model with leaf springs, so I have always loaded it with BP. As NoZombies stated, the 75 grain 313249 is a good bullet for this cartridge. I couldn't find the Lyman mold, so I had Tom at Accurate Molds list this one for me.



It is fun trying to load these little cases. The only issue I had was trying to get a case activated powder dispenser to work on the short case. I finally got it sorted with an old Lee auto disc on my Dillon. Here is a photo of a loaded round using the bullet from the Accurate Mold mentioned above.



These are not practical handguns, and they are not much good for anything; other than getting a good sense of how these old anemic rounds shoot. Having said that, I do enjoy mine and I will be eagerly awaiting the part I need to get it back together.

Harold

[hporter]

And if I can indulge you for a little more eye candy, I found a photo of my top break and couple of the mold. Tom's molds are both beautiful to look at, as well as to use.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

I am sure Pyrodex is fine as regards pressure. It is its corrosion characteristics, and most especially its erratic corrosion characteristics, that many find objectionable. The level of cleaning that has worked fine for a while, can one day give you a nasty surprise.

I'd much rather use a small charge of conventional fast smokeless powder. One reason you don't hear a lot about when the makers of these various small revolvers strengthened them for smokeless, is that they often didn't strengthen them all that much. The question where you really do have to do your research, is on when you can use ammunition loaded for strong modern firearms.

I can tell you something about the top break Iver Johnsons which not many people know. Apart from the tang which acts as a transfer bar, the hammer lifter (black in this drawing) is a straight copy of the 1873 French Chamelot-Delvigne. Just compare it with what the heirs of Col. Colt were doing in that year. The hand spring doesn't scrape up and down against the frame slot like so many, but presses equally on the hand and hammer lifter, which have only very slight rotational movement one to the other.

[Traffer]

Thanks for the great replies guys. Now I really want on of these little guns. I still would rather not get into loading black powder though. So if the one I am looking at is black powder only (second model 2 pin frame, leaf spring, pre 1908) I will probably pass until I can find at least a third model so I can use smokeless powder. The pictures of the little bullets have me hooked. Since I load 22lr and swage even smaller .22 caliber bullets at 40 grains, these guys are big to me. I could whip up some dies to swage bullets for them also. Just more fun any way you look at it.

[hporter]

I'd much rather use a small charge of conventional fast smokeless powder. One reason you don't hear a lot about when the makers of these various small revolvers strengthened them for smokeless, is that they often didn't strengthen them all that much. The question where you really do have to do your research, is on when you can use ammunition loaded for strong modern firearms.

I can tell you something about the top break Iver Johnsons which not many people know. Apart from the tang which acts as a transfer bar, the hammer lifter (black in this drawing) is a straight copy of the 1873 French Chamelot-Delvigne.

Thank you for the diagram of the safety lifter. That is a very useful drawing as that is the exact part I just ordered this morning. Mine sheared off right where the lifter contacts the firing pin and hammer.

I don't mind loading BP, as I already do it for several other rifles and revolvers. I am used to the cleaning routine.

I have loaded the little 32 S&W cartridge with smokeless powder for other revolvers that I have. It amazes me that such a minuscule amount of powder will push the bullet out of the barrel safely. But having the tip of that lifter snap under the blow of the hammer in my Iver Johnson top break makes me bit cautious of the strength of the steel used in the rest of the revolver. I will probably stick with BP when I get it operational again.

[hporter]

I will probably pass until I can find at least a third model so I can use smokeless powder.

Glad the photo's helped to feed the fire. You can always count on fellow enablers on this board to help push you ahead.

I would suggest that you be on the lookout for a S&W Hand Ejector in .32 S&W Long. I have a couple of these. They are relatively inexpensive and are nice and petite and a pure joy to shoot. They will be 10x more reliable than anything like these little 5 shot .32's. And in my opinion, the 32 S&W Long is a much more useful round than the original 32 S&W.

I have quite a few .32 caliber revolvers. They are a very enjoyable way to spend an afternoon shooting. And they are very frugal on the lead and powder supply. I need to look into swaging, you have piqued my curiosity now. Soft lead bullets would be perfect for these type of low powered loads.

[Wayne Smith]

I have my grandmother's 5 shot H&R 32S&W. I bought a box of buckshot, size them to fit, and load over 1gr BE. It's a fun little gun, can almost hide it in my hand. I load them on my TrueLine Jr., too.