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Thread: Reloading bench bench-top material

  1. #61
    Boolit Master


    David2011's Avatar
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    My progressive press bench is much like Pavogrande's. It's a 2x4 (on edges) frame, 2' deep and 8' long, 42" to the top of the bench so I don't bend my lower back at the bottom of the stroke. I came up with that 13 years ago. As I get older my back appreciates it.

    The top is just a single layer of 3/4" ply but under the ply at the location of each press is a 2x10 that extends from touching the front 2x4 to touching the back 2x4. The press bolts go through the 2-by which is in turn glued to the underside of the plywood so there is virtually no noticeable flex. The bench is secured to the wall with 2 drywall screws 3-1/2" long for solid stability. The ply is finished with multiple coats of oil based one part polyurethane. I think I used Defthane. It has held up very well.

    Here's the bench. It's light and strong. The vertical pieces have lap joints for the horizontals to rest on so the load is not borne by fasteners alone. The top is only stiffened under the presses and it affords lots of storage for brass and boolits.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by David2011; 08-20-2018 at 01:17 AM. Reason: Added photo and comments
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  2. #62
    Boolit Master
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    This is not a criticism of any bench top posted here, just a general observation after reviewing many threads like this, on many different subjects.

    Many DIY building projects I've seen, like loading benches/work benches/utility trailers/sheds/shelving/etc, are way over built in the name of "strength" without any regard to strength via engineering, or use of materials.
    Bulk does not always equal strength/rigidity.

    … just an observation,
    Last edited by Kenstone; 01-11-2019 at 10:02 PM.

  3. #63
    Boolit Master



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    I inherited one of those "work benches" from a big box store. You know the kind.....stamped metal, painted red, one drawer in the middle and NO top.

    I had an old, diassembled office desk with a composite top and used that. I don't know what the core is made from, but the exterior surface is a wood grain looking man made material that's harder than woodpecker lips. I can't ding it, dent it or scratch it. Point is, if you can find an office that's closing or surplusing their furniture cheap, grab one!

  4. #64
    Boolit Master


    AndyC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David2011 View Post
    The top is just a single layer of 3/4" ply but under the ply at the location of each press is a 2x10 that extends from touching the front 2x4 to touching the back 2x4. The press bolts go through the 2-by which is in turn glued to the underside of the plywood so there is virtually no noticeable flex.
    I like that technique - bench-flex is ruining my life so I'm going to keep your method in mind, thank you.
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  5. #65
    Boolit Master Baltimoreed's Avatar
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    Attachment 233567My bench is actually 2 4’x4’ office cubicle desks. Four of them bolt together to make a pod. I’ve got one in both corners of my room on one wall with a small straight piece in the middle to make a 10 ft bench with an ell on both ends. They are bolted to 2x4 framing angle braced to the wall. Very heavy and solid.

  6. #66
    Boolit Buddy MrHarmless's Avatar
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    I'm almost ashamed to say that my bench is a modified Ana White design. With a 3/4 inch birch plywood top and some added crossbeams between the legs, it is an absolute unit.

  7. #67
    Boolit Master Baltimoreed's Avatar
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    AndyC, enjoyed your Iraq Pics. Thanks,

  8. #68
    Boolit Buddy Explorer1's Avatar
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    Bowling alley lane material. Hard to find and very HEAVY. There are several types, I used the newer 3/4 "plastic" stuff as a 12' section of that was all I could handle. Lane approach material is also a great option. Was a great bench, then I moved.
    There is NO subsitute for heavy, large diameter bullets or cubic inches!

  9. #69
    Boolit Bub


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    I have to confess that I'm benchless at he moment. But I do have a “reclaimed” high-top kitchen table I rescued from the curbside. It's got a pretty thick wood top. My wife also wants to use it for her art projects.
    First thing is to paint it with a epoxy based paint that has a pretty hard and smooth finish. That should address any staining or other solvent issues on the wood.
    Second, I plan on drilling it for my press and putting some reinforcement metal on the top and underside to spread out the footprint.
    Lastly, my neighbor is donating a nice wrought iron and marble top table that will go on my porch for lead pouring and any other tasks that require vapor litigation.
    Between the two work spaces I should be good... I just need to find the time.

  10. #70
    Boolit Master kmw1954's Avatar
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    Mmarcro when I built my last bench I built it so as I could inlay and flush mount a pc. of 5/16" steel plate where the press is to be. I then drilled and tapped the plate with 5/16" holes to mount all the different presses. That way I didn't have to keep drilling the bench top.

  11. #71
    Boolit Man
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    I used 4x6" dimensional lumber for mine. I know that is overkill for many but I am also running a Dillon BFR (Big Fifty Reloader not pictured) and it will turn any ordinary bench into toothpicks.

    Click image for larger version. 

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check