Pyrodex in a 1895

[docone31]

I got a bunch of Pyrodex, and I just got an 1895. I have RS, and P Pyrodex.
Does anyone have any experience with those powders in that rifle? I do have 4895, but I just have that bunch of Pyro.
Any suggestions?

[RPRNY]

Load RS just as the real stuff: fill to approximately 1/10" above where the bullet base will sit, compress, and seat bullet into contact with powder (or with lube and wad, which is in contact with powder). While it is very unlikely that the same amount of Pyrodex P could produce pressure issues, it will pressure spike faster, so, on the belts and braces principle, suggest only loading rifle cases with RS. Large rifle primer suggested. While LP primers can work well with the subs, they are less ignition sensitive than real Black Powder. I have found T7 much more prone to extreme spreads of velocity than real black powder but I have never used Pyrodex in cartridges. I have found the subs to leave somewhat less residue than real black but that residue to harden faster and be harder than real BP.

As with real black powder, you will need to use a softer black powder lube - SPG if buying, 40/40/10 beeswax/Crisco/vegetable oil if making. An overpowder card with a lube cookie under the bullet is best. No need for, and best not to give it, a tight crimp, only need be tight enough to hold the bullet in place against recoil.

Clean up is the same as black powder - Pyrodex is hygroscopic, just like real BP, so clean up after use is just as important. Hot water with some dishwashing liquid is all that is needed. I like to use hot water and Dawn first, rinse through with clear hot water, and then do everything with Ballistol, but hot soapy water and then rinse and dry is fine.

[smokeywolf]

The Model '95 was chambered in 30-Army, 38-72, 40-72, 303 British, 30-03, 30-06, 35 Winchester and 405. Which caliber is your 1895 chambered for.

[docone31]

Mine is 45/70.
I just ordered brass.

[MT Chambers]

That was going to be my question Win. 1895 or Marlin 95, I wouldn't use pyrodex in any such weapon, they are made for smokeless and will foul up real bad, real black powder would be different and a lot of fun.

[Gray Fox]

I've shot a lot of .45-70 loaded with Pyro RS or Select grade with 405-420 grain RNFP boolits, as well as the Lyman-Gould 330 grain HP all in 1:20 alloy. I have an RCBS universal decapper die and decap the brass then throw them in a half gallon milk jug with some Dawn dish soap. I slosh (technical term) them around a bit, let them set for half an hour, slosh them again, then pour out the black soapy water. Then I dump the brass into a plastic dish pan with some warm water and use one of those .45 brushes with the twisted wire handle to make sure there is no hard residue left in the cases. then I dump out the water and lay the brass on spread newspaper to dry. Once dry I throw them in my large Dillon vibratory tumbler with corm cob media and some of their brass polish. I sounds like a lot of effort, but my brass lasts for years with many reloads. I agree that a moderate crimp works well and helps prevent case neck splits. I'll be doing this process a lot this year as a friend gifted me a case from a several years old run of Pyro Cartridge grade powder, and I've got a new-to-me Pedersoli .45-110 Quigley Rifle to work with as well as a couple .45-70s. I have been using Lyman's black powder gold lube for many years with success. With Pyro, not real BP, I have gotten more consistent ignition with magnum rifle primers, but you need to see if that's true for you based on how your targets look. Best of luck with your new rifle. GF

[docone31]

Is the P grade Pyro acceptable, or just RS?

[FergusonTO35]

I got a bunch of Pyrodex, and I just got an 1895. I have RS, and P Pyrodex.
Does anyone have any experience with those powders in that rifle? I do have 4895, but I just have that bunch of Pyro.
Any suggestions?

It might make good plant fertilizer. I hate Pyrodex and my 1895 will never touch the stuff.

[RPRNY]

Is the P grade Pyro acceptable, or just RS?

So the RS approximates FFg black powder which would be right for your rifle. The P stands for pistol, which means it's more like FFFg, a finer grain. With black powder, grain size determines ignition rate and your Pyro P will be fast, meaning rapid, early pressure. Can you stuff enough Pyro P into a 45-70 case to do any damage? I think it's very very unlikely. But it's also not going to do you any good with accuracy, though, with a lighter bullet and enough work, maybe. I dislike the subs, but God gave you lemons, so let's make the best God-darn lemonade we can.

Start with the RS. You may tire of it. On the other hand, you may get the itch to load 45 LC, or go full on and buy a cap n ball revolver! In which case, you'll have a use for your P.

[docone31]

Just a comeback, My wife and myself went to the range today with the rifle. With factory loads, she shoots like an house on fire! THis is a rifle I really like. With iron sights, she was real close out of the box at 100yds. I am really looking forward to load development with this rascal.
Feels good, handles real well, and with the factory pad, very comfortable to fire.
I got lucky with this one. A Remlin, but with this rifle, who cares. She really works well for me. My wife fired some round and loved it also.

[Skipper]

Is the P grade Pyro acceptable, or just RS?

I talked to Bruce Hodgdon many years ago when Pyrodex hit the market. He said that P grade is OK, just reduce the load 10%

[Texas by God]

I used Pyro P in a custom Eddy P14 .450 Marlin with 50/50 alloy/Lee 340 lubed with LLA. They worked fine; I just had to know if it would. I cleaned gun and brass and didn't do it again.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[northmn]

Pyro P would be used with bullets like the Gould bullet at 325 grains or so. If you 45-70 is Ballard rifled you should be able to use any BP combination. I had one that had micro Groove back when and it did not shoot for sour owl droppings. I had Lee molds that were a bit undersized but also the MG may have filled up with fouling a bit much. This was with genuine 2F GOEX. Cannot add anything more to what is said except that use of a drop funnel is handy. I made mine using an aluminum arrow shaft and a regular small funnel. Also I compressed the powder with a marked 7.62X39 case using the base.
Just for the record, a chemist on the muzzle loading site stated that the ignition by products of Pyrodex are more corrosive than black powder and require very thorough cleaning.

DEP