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Thread: S&W 66 which is better?

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
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    S&W 66 which is better?

    I ran across a S&W model 66 4inch at a local gun shop a few days ago for what seems like a good price. Condition appears to be very good to excellent.
    This one has a "lawyer hole"(lock) in the side of it.
    All my other S&W revolvers are pre lock except one which is from the pro shop. I don't really have any experience with the "lawyer hole" revolvers from a standard production run.
    My question is which ones are better, the pre lock version or the ones with the lock on the side? Does it matter at all?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master RKJ's Avatar
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    I've got 4 (3 of them w/o the lock, 4" 28, 6" 629, 4" 66) & 4" 25-7 (45 Colt) with the lock. I can't tell any difference in them. I found I like the 625 best of all of them though as it is a very good shooter. It makes me look like a a good shooter. I'd get it if it were me, obviously I believe you can never have too many S&W's. I don't think you'll be disappointed in it. The fit & finish on that 25 is as good as any I've seen.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    Mytmousemalibu's Avatar
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    Pre lock is always preferred and pinned and recessed is the cream of the crop! Now there are current production Smith's that don't have frame locks, my little 442 I carry everyday is this way but most have the Hillary hole. That said, I have new production guns that are sugsr sweet shooters.
    ~ Chris


    Casting, reloading, shooting, collecting, restoring, smithing, etc, I love it all but most importantly, God, Family, The United States Constitution and Freedom...

    God Bless our Troops, Veterans and First Responders!

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  4. #4
    Boolit Master gnostic's Avatar
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    The lawyer locks not the only difference. The barrel and shroud are made in two pieces on the lawyer lock models. The bottom line is, it's still an amazing K frame S&W handgun, that's good as it gets.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

    Hickory's Avatar
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    You have to view the hole in it's proper prospective.
    It's like air conditioning in a pickup truck you don't need or use it 3 out of 4 seasons and when it does gets hot, you just roll down the window.
    Political correctness is a national suicide pact.

    I am a sovereign individual, accountable
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  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    Tazman,

    I have one with the lock and two-piece barrel and it has become my favorite revolver - and I have 8 to 10 older Smiths that don't have the lock and two-piece barrel. A couple of the old 586's shoot a little more accurately out of a machine rest but not enough to matter.

    I bought mine new at near full price and would do so again if I had to.

    Gus Youmans

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. I feel better about it now.
    Hickory-- that is an interesting perspective.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Hmm. For the most part, it doesn't matter. I have a fair pile of S&W's, and all but one are pre lock. The one that does have a lock, a 625 4", has been a very good gun for about 30,000 hard rounds, mostly in competition. I dislike the reason for, and the look of the lock in general, others could care less. The MIM hammer and triggers are well made, and quite hard. They also frequently have casting lines and injection circles visible that remind me of the bottom of my Matchbox cars I had as a kid. Not a fan of that. While I may generally prefer the older guns, they weren't immune to letting junk slip through back in the "good old days", so each example needs to be examined carefully before buying if possible.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    Mytmousemalibu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnostic View Post
    The lawyer locks not the only difference. The barrel and shroud are made in two pieces on the lawyer lock models.
    Not entirely true, not all of newer guns with frame locks have the 2 piece barrels. My 686, 929PC are both only a couple years-old but still retain barrels made the way S&W has for a long time, one piece. If you look in a display case of new Smith revolvers you will see that same pattern repeated. Only select models have 2 piece barrels as far as I know.
    ~ Chris


    Casting, reloading, shooting, collecting, restoring, smithing, etc, I love it all but most importantly, God, Family, The United States Constitution and Freedom...

    God Bless our Troops, Veterans and First Responders!

    Diligentia, Vis, Celeritas
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  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    I am trying to recall that some years ago there was conversation that on occasion the frame mounted lock would disassemble itself and parts would wander around inside the frame. It was reported that this had actually happened. When this occurred the firearm would tie up and not function when the owner tried to fire it. As I said this was years ago and I have not heard any more about it since that time. Either S&W re-engineered those parts to prevent such events or these stories may have been nothing more than urban legend created by dissatisfied buyers at the presence and appearance of the lock. Gee, maybe we were among the first to create fake news!?!

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by tazman View Post
    Hickory-- that is an interesting perspective.
    What I am saying is, It's there, ignore it, forget about it and pretend its not there.
    But, if you need to use it, it's there.
    Political correctness is a national suicide pact.

    I am a sovereign individual, accountable
    only to God and my own conscience.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master Drm50's Avatar
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    I have got many S&W revolvers. As a rule I only am interested in older models, blue/ P&R. If
    you are buying the revolver for use and not collecting, I would not hesitate to buy a model with
    the lock. I don't know why guys that are buying guns to " use" get so bent out of shape over
    the lock. If it bothers you it can be plugged. I have a cut off point of interest on all S&W revolvers.
    Based on the dash number that signifies a change in the model. All of these are pre lock and some
    models such as 586 don't interest me because they werent made until after this period. This has
    nothing to do with use, only collecting. The 586 / 686 are find revolvers, I just happen to be a
    Gun Snob.

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hickory View Post
    What I am saying is, It's there, ignore it, forget about it and pretend its not there.
    But, if you need to use it, it's there.
    I understood your reference. I just thought the way you said it was interesting.

    Drm50---I understand your point of view. I am not a collector.

    I read a year ago or so, that the extra parts in the lock caused the trigger to be considerably less smooth. Apparently this is not the case.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    I can say with absolute certainty that the frame lock assembly cannot effect the trigger feel. It will trap the hammer from drawing back, thats it. I don't care for it in any manner. There's a gentleman that makes nice little plugs to go in the hole if you gut the lock out of the gun. I have done this to mine. The presence of the lock won't dissuade me from buying a newer S&W.
    ~ Chris


    Casting, reloading, shooting, collecting, restoring, smithing, etc, I love it all but most importantly, God, Family, The United States Constitution and Freedom...

    God Bless our Troops, Veterans and First Responders!

    Diligentia, Vis, Celeritas
    Accuracy, Power & Speed

  15. #15
    Boolit Master Walkingwolf's Avatar
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    I own two with the IL, one without, all three are fine guns. The lock does not bother me at all, I just don't use it. Both my 625 PC, and my model 21-4 are dead on accurate, both IL. My model 64-5 is DAO, but all three have great smooth trigger pulls.

    The old pre model Smiths had a visable hammer pin under the latch, they also had a top side plate screw. Neither of these have affected the value of the older guns. On the ruger forum this discussion came up about the IL when comparing the GP to the 686, yet the same people bothered by the IL seem unaffected by the ugly read the manual warning on the side of the Ruger barrel. I remember when that was a big deal in the gun rags when Ruger first started doing it.

  16. #16
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    If I came across a good deal on a model 66 , lock isn't an issue in 66's, I would jump on it with both feet.
    Modern K frame , 357 magnum , 4 inch barrel, fully adjustable sights , stainless steel construction ....I can't think of a better all around revolver to own.
    Night stand or belt holster. Handles light 38 special target loads to heavy 357 magnum deer hunting loads . It doesn't get much better for versitility than a model 66.
    My newest S&W has a lock and an excellent trigger pull.
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  17. #17
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    rintinglen's Avatar
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    I will go the distance and say the lock version is the better gun. The slight increase in the depth of the frame eliminates the need to shave the bottom of the forcing cone and makes the gun less likely to crack the forcing cone. My personal older 66 only gets 38's and +P's as a consequence. The newer guns are more robust and not prone to this ailment.
    Last edited by rintinglen; 01-15-2018 at 09:16 PM.
    _________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    If you like the revolver I say buy it. You can permanently deactivate the lock by removing the "flag" which pops up beside the hammer and grinding off the little nub on the inside which locks the hammer. I did this on my 637, I also took a whetstone and polished off the word "LOCKED" on it so there would be no indication that it was functional.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rintinglen View Post
    I will go the distance and say the lock version is the better gun. The slight increase in the depth of the frame eliminates the need to shave the bottom of the forcing cone and makes the gun less likely to crack the forcing cone. My personal older 66 only gets 38's and +P's as a consequence. The newer guns are more robust and not prone to this ailment.
    That is very good to know. I had a model 19 many years ago that blew out the bottom of the forcing cone. I didn't want a repeat of that for sure.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drm50 View Post
    I have a cut off point of interest on all S&W revolvers.
    Based on the dash number that signifies a change in the model. All of these are pre lock and some
    models such as 586 don't interest me because they werent made until after this period. This has
    nothing to do with use, only collecting. The 586 / 686 are find revolvers, I just happen to be a
    Gun Snob.
    The 586 and 686 were only made with locks?
    Chill Wills

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check