Ortgies 32acp barrel bulge.

[bigdan420us]

O.P. I just happen to own one of those old Ortgies .32acp's.
It is not in the best of shape overall, but the barrel is in great shape.
Grips are cracked/broken, I can't even remember without digging it out.
One magazine.

Give me a pm if interested.
I don't want much for it.

Hello Mgderf, I am interested in the spare parts gun you have. How much are you asking for it.

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk

[partsproduction]

Make a ring die in the lathe out of medium steel, with tapered entry, so that it is a .001" interferance fit. Lube it up with Moly Z Kote and press the barrel into to it, it will swage the bulge down.

This is a lot easier said than done, because when you have it all the way down the barrel as far as it can be pushed you'll have to press it back off. That means, to me, making at least 2 driver rods, one for the chamber and the other to drive from the muzzle.
This all means having patience looking for a barrel for sale, it would save way more money if you value your time.
Another thing, if you know someone with a CNC lathe with a hydraulic drawbar, find a collet that just slides over the unbulged section of the barrel, put that in the lathe and turn the collet pressure as far down as it can go and squeeze it, if it doesn't move increase the pressure, etc, etc. The operator should know his lathe well enough to know if it will squeeze TOO hard, in which case you'd have to make a close fit plug that would stop it from squeezing down too far.
Again, CNC time being what it is you'd be better off waiting for a replacement barrel.

I'd say look in gun broker but I can't figure out their new search engine. They say you have to read a tutorial to use it, to me it was perfect before, why fix it if it ain't broke? But if you know how to use it you may find one there.

[Mgderf]

Hello Mgderf, I am interested in the spare parts gun you have. How much are you asking for it.

Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk

Pm sent.

[2152hq]

Lathe turn, or simply carefully hand file the bulge from the outer surface of the bbl.
The pistol will function then just fine.
A 'ring' will still appear in the bore at the damaged point, but won't make much difference if at all in the accuracy of the pistol.
It's not like you're taking it along to Camp Perry this year I'm guessing.
At plinking and beer can range,,it'll do just fine.
If you really want to by-pass any ring in the bore effects you can counter-bore the bbl down to that point to establish a new crown down in there before the damage.

Cost??,,about nothing.

If and when you find another bbl you can decide if you want to put the money into it.

Just my thoughts.

[KCSO]

No anvil and ball peen. We take a bore dia rod and a hydraulic press and press out the bulge as you will play heck finding a barrel. When done they don't shoot too bad either.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

I wouldn't just hammer down the bulge. Whatever you do needs to be, like the schoolboy definition of a circle, something that is round, all round. I'd make a die to fit the intended diameter, lubricate well and size it down with a mallet. If you feel happier whacking the muzzle than the breech, you could make the die in two halves and hold it together in a vice.

Just reducing the outside bulge and leaving the bore the way it is may work fine. It sometimes does in a rifle, and this is a much lower pressure firearm, which may usually be used with jacketed bullets. The trouble is, what do you if it doesn't, squeeze the formerly bulged part down to a smaller size than the rest? If you do want to remove the outside bulge, a lathe collet would be best for the extreme concentricity required. True it with a dial gauge some way from the chuck jaws, in case it is bent too. Actually I think you could do a pretty good job with a wide, flat file.

Lining or sleeving a new barrel into the rear, non-circular part are probably possible, although I can't see the thickness you have to work with. I believe I would prefer the monobloc job. It could be that the hole in the front of the slide has been deformed in getting barrel out, and a marginally larger diameter barrel might be a better fit in a trued up hole.

I don't much like the step at the front of a sleeved in barrel, so I would trawl my white elephant collection for tapered reamers, and try to find one that would leave a very slight step there, and more metal in the "monobloc" at its rear end. Or alternatively (for a different sort of advantages) taper it in the opposite direction, with no step at all, and the taper stopping the barrel from being spat out.

That is apart from the solder, of course. For such a short engagement I believe I would prefer silver solder, like Brownells 355 thin ribbon, to either soft solder or Loctite. There is some possibility that contraction of steel that hot would tighten the bore slightly, and I don't believe the .32SCP throat would extend far enough forward to eliminate that. But it nearly does, and lapping could make that quarter-inch or so uniform with the rest of the bore. Or just ream a short bullet-diameter freebore to extend beyond the constricted part. What is good enough for Weatherby rifles is good enough for this gun.