MidSouth Shooters SupplyLoad DataTitan ReloadingRotoMetals2
Reloading EverythingWidenersRepackboxInline Fabrication
Lee Precision Snyders Jerky
Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Inaccurate PID Temperature Readings

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    15

    Inaccurate PID Temperature Readings

    In 2011 I decided to build a PID controller for the lead pot. I chose the Auber SYL-2352 PID controller. Upon testing and setting the temperature I noticed the temp readings were off anywhere from 200-235F degrees. I was casting bullets in pure lead and alloy with readings of 920-975F degrees. Anything lower and incorrect fillout, any higher and frosting would start. I realized the true temperatures were probably in the 700's. It never really bothered me because I just wrote down what temps on the PID gave me good bullets depending on the alloy.

    Well, after 7 years (go figure) its starting to bother me and I want to trouble shoot what is causing the inaccurate readings. The controller seems to be working perfectly except for the goofy readings, it holds temperature very well.

    Any of our PID Gurus out there ever hear anything like this? Any ideas?

    Thanks, Kurt

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    Mike W1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Rural Sumner, IA
    Posts
    1,317
    Not a guru but first thing I'd do is disconnect the TC and short the 2 pins and you should read ambient temperature of the room. If that didn't do it I'd likely try another TC for comparison. After that maybe an incorrect parameter could be the culprit. The PID should be good if it passes that first test though.
    Mike

    Benefactor Member NRA
    Life Member Iowa Firearms Coalition
    US Army Vet

    There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
    One is by the sword. The other is by debt.”
    John Adams 1826

  3. #3
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    15
    Hi Mike, thanks for the reply. You just jogged my memory. I should have mentioned when I turn everything on from cold start it reads ambient temp in the garage correctly. Today when I turned it on it read 58 degrees which was a degree or two from my analog thermometer on the garage wall. I will do as you advise and disconnect and jump the thermocouple and see if I get the same type readings.

    Kurt

  4. #4
    ADMIN



    HATCH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Lexington, SC
    Posts
    6,706
    Where did you get the thermocouple from?

    The default setting on most PID is for K type thermocouples.
    If the thermocouple is a different type other then the K type then you WILL have the issue you are having.

    You need to go into the setting and verify the settings for TC
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

  5. #5
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    15
    Hi Hatch, I bought it direct from Auber Instruments about 7 years ago with the controller. I don't think I have the literature from the thermocouple so I'm not sure what type it is. What I can do is order another TC of a known type and reset the PID. While waiting for that I can fire up the lead pot and try changing some of the internal PID settings and hope for the best. Thanks for the suggestions.

    Kurt

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    out of here, wandering somewhere in the SW.
    Posts
    10,163
    After over 45+ years of experience (a true guru) with thermal control devices, it sounds like you have the wrong T/C. Or have the controller programmed for the wrong T/C. Either will really screw up you readings.

    Go thru and double check the settings. Is the T/C you have marked “K”? Or what? Many of those cheepo ones are not marked at all!!!!!!!

    A shorted controller input (with a paperclip) will read approx room temp. But if the temp compensation in the curves is wrong in the controller, as you get hotter, the error gets worse.

    Just order another “K” T/C and make sure programming is correct.

    A very inexpensive fix for your system!!!!!!

    Jim

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    4,372
    Did you shorten the leads or add a plug?

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas
    Posts
    416
    Google thermocouple color code. Somewhere on the web there is a chart of the lead colors of different types of TCs, what they are made of and temp range. Found it one time when I was teaching a class and we were discussing TCs.

  9. #9
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    15
    Just got in from the garage. I have to tell you guys you are terrific and a wealth of information. After reading Hatchs post I went to Aubers websight and looked through the instructions for my PID. Not knowing what TC I have I started to change the "SN" settings which is the sensor settings. "0" is the default setting for a "K" TC which is where I was getting the 900F plus readings. I changed the setting to "5" for a "J" TC and low and behold I got the readings I should have been seeing from the get go! The 975 degree reading I was used to seeing is now at 758 degrees which is right in the center of the ballpark. Many thanks to all of you. Jim the TC had no markings that I could find, must have been one of the cheapo ones you mentioned. I did order a "K" TC and will compare its readings against the "J" readings, of course with the proper sensor settings.

    Thanks again fellas, Kurt

  10. #10
    ADMIN



    HATCH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Lexington, SC
    Posts
    6,706
    I ran into that problem when dealing with the Master Caster Factory TC.
    It was at 900F and the lead was just starting to melt good

    Cast Boolits is where members are suppose to help other members when it comes to reloading questions.
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    out of here, wandering somewhere in the SW.
    Posts
    10,163
    Listing the temps you were reading, it really sounded like you had a “J” running on the “K” range.

    Glad you found your gremlin! Color codes are great for T/C extension wire and plugs, but many of the cheeeeepo chicom T/C’s are not color coded/marked to the ISO/NIST standards. J/K/T/S/R/N/etc all have different coefficient curves and their own unique usages in industry. “K” is the most common for the lower temp ranges we use in casting. When processes reach the limits of the highest T/C’s, they use optical pyrometers.

    Banger

    Banger

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check