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Thread: Idea for the using decap dies

  1. #1
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    Idea for the using decap dies

    Thinking on these - Had an idea.

    If you were to make/get a "shell holder" that would snap into your press, but just had a little pit for the primer to drop into, and otherwise didn't have a shell holder at all (i.e. a flat top, except for the pit for the primer - so it just pushes the case up into the decap die) it seems to me like using that, with a press on it's side would let you flick the decapped cases out faster and the primers would fall out naturally.

    I can probably fake this some how with wood or plastic or something - Hmmm.

    I know you can use the "wrong" case holder as I just did so, 38 Spl holder with 44 Rem Mag brass. Worked OK for a couple hundred rounds worth - except that alignment had to be done manually for each case. Doable.

    Anyone tried something like that? Might save a few seconds of time, and a little energy

    It's definitely quieter than using the Lee "Hammer the primer out" rig I'd been using, so I can deprime at 3am if I feel the need (and am stuck with evil insomnia...)

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    Bent Ramrod's Avatar
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    No reason it wouldn’t work. Same technique as used with a tong tool, held horizontally over a trash can.

    Only problems would be fashioning some kind of sideways mount for your press, and the need to guide the cases by feel so the decapping pin goes into the flash hole. The tong tools have a guide bushing to orient the case, while a universal decapping die generally relies on the vertical position and the correct shell holder in the press. Even then, I notice I have to “feel” some cases into the die so the pin goes in right.

    A separate decapping stem sized for each caliber would help with the orientation, especially sideways.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Take a normal shell holder and grind the top off. This will give you a slot to hold the case and allow it to come straight off, without sliding it to the side. Without the lips it hold the case in and the case would have to be held/guided into the die to center the decapping stem. I'm not visualizing the sideways press, but I don't have your press in front of me to look at. Keep thinkin' 'cause experimenting is good for reloaders...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy
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    I kind of do that...on my drill press
    2 fender washers bolted to a block of wood, with the top one drilled out to the case rim diameter.
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    Lower block has big cavity for used primers
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    No sliding cases into a shell plate slot and you can feel a crimped primer and deal with it/chamfer it.
    Tumbling after primer removal gets the primer pockets clean and no more primer smooge on my progressive.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

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    My hand deprimer is a flat block with a hole thru it .280 dia and a flat face for rims. its big enough for 45-70 rims. you drop the case on the decapping rod and its bushing ( helps center case on pin). You set the case on the rod and lower to hole and squeeze lever, primer drops out into waiting trash can. Basically what your describing. I made bushing to center the rod and decapping pin in the case and flash hole. Makes it quick and simple to use.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
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    I use my spare Pro1000 purely for decapping, using a spare .38 sizer/decapper. By using a case collator and the four tubes it's a fairly quick way to do lots of .38 cases (primers are collected - well, most of them - and the cases drop into a bin). Works for me, and with minimal messing around making things.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master


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    I remove the tool head, dies and priming system from my SDB (5 minutes max)
    replace with tool head that just has decapping pin 1+ minute

    now I can run the cases through by just putting them in--no need to take them out as the progressive feature of the press runs them around and drops them in the bin.

    a good air compressor blowing cleans everything off so no trash on/in machine
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  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Harvey deprimer & Frankford arsenal deprimers work great anywhere without shellholders.
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  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenstone View Post
    I kind of do that...on my drill press
    2 fender washers bolted to a block of wood, with the top one drilled out to the case rim diameter.
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	211818
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	211817
    Lower block has big cavity for used primers
    Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	18 
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ID:	211819
    No sliding cases into a shell plate slot and you can feel a crimped primer and deal with it/chamfer it.
    Tumbling after primer removal gets the primer pockets clean and no more primer smooge on my progressive.
    Brilliant.

  10. #10
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    Kenstone -- I love your adaptation! I'm thinking of trying your double-washer idea. My "improvement" will be to use a piece of brass rod turned to a few hundreths less than case neck diameter, with a center hole at bottom to afford insertion of a regular decapping pin. One of my thoughts being this would eliminate time searching for hole and significantly speed the process up. Also, mill a recess in a piece of scrap aluminum stock (e.g., 2" x 4" x 0.25" thick) to place the washers in, so -- while pin is in flash hole for first primer removal, I can C-clamp the aluminum to drill press table to keep it in place for cases following. Again, GREAT idea!!! Thanks for sharing!
    geo

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by georgerkahn View Post
    Kenstone -- I love your adaptation! I'm thinking of trying your double-washer idea. My "improvement" will be to use a piece of brass rod turned to a few hundreths less than case neck diameter, with a center hole at bottom to afford insertion of a regular decapping pin. One of my thoughts being this would eliminate time searching for hole and significantly speed the process up. Also, mill a recess in a piece of scrap aluminum stock (e.g., 2" x 4" x 0.25" thick) to place the washers in, so -- while pin is in flash hole for first primer removal, I can C-clamp the aluminum to drill press table to keep it in place for cases following. Again, GREAT idea!!! Thanks for sharing!
    geo
    Thanx for the recognition, I didn't think anyone read my posts...
    I only do pistol and simply put a de-primed case in the top washer, bring down the de-prime pin, find/push it thru the primer hole for alignment, and clamp the stacked wooden blocks to the drill press table.
    My cheap HF drill press doesn't have a lot of stroke and may not work for rifle stuff.
    I have 3 top plates...um boards:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'd do things different if I had a mill but wood is something most/more people can work with tools they have.
    The screws thru the washers into the wood are sheet metal screws

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check