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Thread: 327 federal heavy bullets

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildcatter View Post
    I got it and the only issue I have in the GP-100 is very compressed loads of mmp powder to get the results I like cause flattening of the bullet nose when seating. But performance and accuracy make me smile. This gun has one chamber that won't plat with the other 6 as is seen in every group. The powder is some old surplus powder I have that is very close to H-110, and all were loaded with Federal 205M small rifle match primers, sorry for the wrong description on the targets.
    Attachment 231931
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    Wow, those are cooking. Just this year I ended up buying three more 327 federal handguns, the king being the 5" blued GP100. What a phenomenal gun, and I used it to take a deer on my first handgun only hunt. I kind of sidelined my SSK copy, as it's just not that great. I found a load of 6 grains of Bluedot provides good accuracy, and I think it was running about 1050 fps from the GP100. I tried to get in on the group buy for the new Mjolnir, but that turned into a joke. I eventually designed my own bullet, a 148 grain solid designed to maximize powder space, and spent the summer testing hollow points. The hollow point I settled on made it a 144 grain bullet cast of 20-1 alloy. You can get it going 1300+ with H110, I never found maximum as accuracy falls off with the soft alloy. Again Bluedot turned out to be the winner, with outstanding accuracy at 7.4 grains. That put the bullet out at 1220 fps from the GP100.

    I had a short go with Accurate #9, but it is just not as good as H110. Accurate #7 did not work well at all for me. IMR 4227 seems like a decent powder, accuracy on par with H110, but speed about what I get with Bluedot. I'm still playing with the Accurate 31-120K, it shoots good with most loads, but have not found one I really want to set me teeth into. It seems to shoot best cast of a moderately hard alloy like wheel weights, 20-1 and HTWW were just ok. Being a plain base, it also seems like velocity falls off after a certain point. You can shoot them over 1500 fps easy with most slow powders, but accuracy seems to be best below that.

  2. #22
    Boolit Man
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    If you have access to range scrap you may want to try 1:3 Lino to range scrap. Although not a 327 owner, I've used it in warm 32-20 loads with great results. Using the alloy calculator it falls right at 12.4 bhn.

  3. #23
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    I don't currently have range scrap, but have been asking around at my club. It sounds like it may happen, and will be discussed in the meetings soon. You can bet I'll be a berm miner for all I'm worth, there is as much lead as dirt in them! I've been using a copy of wheel weight, made up of a combo of SOWW and Linotype. I did manage to get two full to the top buckets of COWW this year, which I'm really hoping provides close to 200 pounds of alloy for me. I've kind of settled in to two alloys, COWW+tin (or similar copy), and 20:1. I also use straight SOWW for the muzzleloader and barrel slugs. With wheel weight I've managed to get it as hard as 30 BHN in the oven! Or I can water drop it for low to mid 20's, or easily add Lino to make Lyman #2, and it shoots fine in most things just air cooled. I do like adding tin. Tin just makes everything easier.

  4. #24
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    Bring back a old thread, as I am also looking for heavy for caliber 32 for my Single seven. How did things go with the 140’s? I have two 140 hps and both have too
    Long of a nose to work with the case as is. I might trim the case back to allow a moderate crimp and OAL to fit my cylinder.

    But I have found that the beloved Lyman 440 bullet works perfecy as is even allowing crimp to the crimp groove and fits the cyl length!!

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    I have sized these to .314 and my cyl seems to Like them!


    As mentioned at the beginning most all data stops at 115/120g. I like heavy for caliber and talk about a pile driver!! This bullet has always impressed.

    Any one else noticed this bullets potential?

    CW
    NRA Life member • REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.

  5. #25
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    I've tried 4 or 5 bullets around 140 grains now, although most were seated long. With deep seating to 1.490", I found you reduced the case capacity so much that H110 no longer offers much of a benefit. I found Bluedot to be the cats meow for this purpose. You can go lower if you want, but 5.8 grains Bluedot should be a good starting point. I found around 6.5 grains to be the best. Around 6.8 grains I consider max. 6.5 grains was around 1050 fps if I remember right.

    As for the Accurate 31-140C "SSK", I never got it to shoot great in anything. It's not bad, but it's not good. The Accurate 31-148GC is my huckleberry for full power. The 31-137K has done well for me too, I just haven't run the entire gauntlet of load workups for it yet.

    One indispensable tool I made was a Lee collet crimp die. All I had to do was take a 32-30 collet crimp die, and shorten the collet the requisite amount. With this tool, you can make a crimp groove wherever you want.

  6. #26
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    I like blue dot allot too. Under rated pistol Powder!

    CW
    NRA Life member • REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.

  7. #27
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    These heavy bullets are attractive on paper... but as some of you are finding out, heavier equals longer. For my custom K-frame 327, the NOE interpretation of the classic Ideal 3118 comes to within less than.01” of the front face of the cylinder. At 125 gr that’s getting to the upper limit of what I can use. The late, lamented Ruger Blackhawk 8-shooter in 327 gives a little more cylinder length thus more potential bullet weight capacity, but if you don’t already have one of those Rugers, good luck finding one. Mine is definitely not for sale!!

    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  8. #28
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    I have been destroying my brass with the .327 Federal, I have tried 115gr RNFP with 6.0gr of HP-38 or 11.7gr of H-110. Both these loads were destroying my brass out of a 4.2" SP101.

    I have settled on 4.6g Unique for the 115 RNFP.

    I'm tending towards lighter plain base boolits around 90gr for the sake of brass life, 327 brass ain't cheap.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by HP-Sauce View Post
    I have been destroying my brass with the .327 Federal, I have tried 115gr RNFP with 6.0gr of HP-38 or 11.7gr of H-110. Both these loads were destroying my brass out of a 4.2" SP101.

    I have settled on 4.6g Unique for the 115 RNFP.

    I'm tending towards lighter plain base boolits around 90gr for the sake of brass life, 327 brass ain't cheap.
    Are your chambers oversized? I shoot the mp “mjolnir” out of my 327’s. It weighs 128gns with my alloy. I either use 12.0 of h110, or 10.0 of 2400. I was splitting brass with heavier loads, but haven’t split any since I came down to this level. Maybe your bullets are bigger than your throats. I am using starline brass.
    Due to the price of primers, warning shots will no longer be given!

  10. #30
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wheelguns 1961 View Post
    Are your chambers oversized? I shoot the mp “mjolnir” out of my 327’s. It weighs 128gns with my alloy. I either use 12.0 of h110, or 10.0 of 2400. I was splitting brass with heavier loads, but haven’t split any since I came down to this level. Maybe your bullets are bigger than your throats. I am using starline brass.
    I’m using stat line brass too. 7 out of 100 split after the second fire. The boolits were .314, you do have a point, that could be the reason.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #31
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    I too had this problem when I first started, but the problem is not pressure. I believe the problem is a combination of poor quality Starline brass, and an undersized sizing die. Federal brass does it too, but at a much lower rate.

    Anyway the solution for me was simple. I size the body with a Lee carbide crimp die with crimper removed. I then size just the neck section with the standard sizing die. Before I was loosing around 5%-10% of all brass. Since then, which was 2 or 3 years ago, I've not lost a SINGLE piece of brass to splitting. I've shot some real barn burners in that time. It is a 100% effective solution. If you only own a single 327 federal, you can even get away without body sizing. It's unfortunate that all sizing dies out there are designed to size .008" smaller than needed, even for .312" bullets. I wish I had a better solution for those using a progressive, but I just run my brass through, clean, and then load as normal.

  12. #32
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    Are you gentlemen trying to turn the .327 into a mild .357?

    Trying to make the .327 into an effective deer round?
    Don Verna

    NRA Endowment Member

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by dverna View Post
    Are you gentlemen trying to turn the .327 into a mild .357?

    Trying to make the .327 into an effective deer round?
    That's what a 327 federal is, isn't it?

    The heavier bullets all around work better. More consistent velocities, better accuracy, more power. You can deer hunt with the heavy bullets, but they work well on smaller game too. There isn't a huge difference, but the heavier bullets do go through a lot more water for shooting carp in a creek. Last spring the water was so deep, nothing short of full power 310 grain 44 magnums would get to them though.

    There's no flies on the 100 grain XTP, but I've never found any impressive accuracy with cast bullets less than 115 grains, at maximum velocities. Target loads are another matter. Of everything I've tried, my most accurate bullet is my 144 grain hollow point.

  14. #34
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    Today, I shot 175shells tru my Single seven. Five with the Lyman 311440 sized to .314 and seated to cyl length. Using 5.5g Blue Dot. They shot very well, cases fell out of the cyl. But like all my loads the CCI 550’s where flattened.
    Second load was with a 135g Cast SWC. This one got 6.0g Blue Dot seated to the top of the driving band as it has a long nose and not real friendly to the short Ruger cylinder. (Pic at the top.)

    Any one recognize this bullet?

    This one shot really well @ 1150 fps. I loaded enough of these to shoot them for accuracy out to 50 yards. Im pretty happy with this gun so far!

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    I do not have very many of these 135’s and the mold for the 311440. Im gonna work more with the 440’s.

    CW
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  15. #35
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    Did I send you those bullets? That SWC sure looks and awful lot like my Accurate 31-137K. As for primer flattening, it seems to depend slightly on the gun. My GP101 doesn't seem to flatten primers even with loads I consider too far. I have one SP101 that does with very hot ammo, and another that is nearly always flattened. It's best to compare to factory ammo.
    Last edited by megasupermagnum; 01-12-2020 at 08:10 PM.

  16. #36
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    OK I admit it, there is no perfect round or caliber to do all things for all people. OTOH, the 327 Fed Mag makes a good stab at doing a whole lot of things for a whole lot of people. By the time you get up to hot loads with the heavier bullets, you have equalled the paper ballistics of at least the 38 +P if not run of the mill factory 357 Mag. You need a mid-size Ruger or S&W to really take advantage of the round's potential. If this round had been introduced at the time the 32 H&R Mag-wannabe was put on the market, in revolvers of sufficient strength, it would have been a world beater. Just because the history of 32s has been one of small, fairly weak revolvers with rather puny loads, there is no reason they caliber can't grow up to be something bigger and better.

    Froggie
    Last edited by Green Frog; 01-12-2020 at 09:50 PM.
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  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by megasupermagnum View Post
    Did I send you those bullets? That SWC sure looks and awful lot like my Accurate 31-137K.
    Not sure. I believe I swapped some 457191 for them. But if on this board or another I have not yet chexked.

    I have looked at the accurate chart and like that 31-135. Its got a wider meplat and is made as large as possible for the Ruger. Might have to place an order.

    CW
    NRA Life member • REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by cwlongshot View Post
    Not sure. I believe I swapped some 457191 for them. But if on this board or another I have not yet chexked.

    I have looked at the accurate chart and like that 31-135. Its got a wider meplat and is made as large as possible for the Ruger. Might have to place an order.

    CW
    I agree...the 31-135s is a really good looking bullet. I ordered the mold yesterday.

  19. #39
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    That 31-135S looks like about as good as you can get for a single seven. Although that deep seated 31-137K sure looks fantastic. Nothing wrong with a sub 3" 50 yard group! Heck, that might be 2". It shoots good in mine too. I'm betting I sent those to you. You also have those 31-148GC that are 144 grain hollow points cast of 20:1. They might be even more accurate.

  20. #40
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    OK. YES! I have some HPs but would need to trim cases to use them at crimp. THANK YOU!!

    I thought we traded a 45 bullet. Did we?


    I am still contemplating the mold. But its a good bet Ill be adding it to the “collection”

    CW
    NRA Life member • REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check