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Thread: Help me decide on a new 9mm mold?

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy
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    ACWW isn't an acronym I'm familiar with, but I'm using ingots made from both clip on and stick on WWs.

    BE is another acronym I'm not familiar with. I have heard the TL design may be part of the problem, which is why I started this thread about getting a new mold. Ironically this thread has given me more ideas of things to try to fix the leading than the thread I posted a few days back asking for help troubleshooting my leading... haha.

    Will go back to W231. It's more accurate in my gun anyway. I've been kinda disappointed with Bullseye overall, just doesn't seem like a good fit for me or my M&P.

  2. #22
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    I can tell you 4.0-4.2gr of W231/HP38 under PCed Lee 356-125-2R works fine in my Sig P320 and Taurus PT111. I'm pretty sure I've seen other people using similar load without issues so I dont see why it wouldnt work for you.
    As for sizing I started with Lee .356 sizing die that i kept lapping until i got to .3575 and thats what i use now for my GP100MC and Sig P320. My Taurus PT111 only eats .356 though because thats what it likes so I had to get separate .356 die just for that. I was lucky enough not to have any leading with any of my handguns but i lay even but pretty thick layer of powder coat on all my boolits. I also water drop after I PC I dont know how much that helps but I've been doing that with all my boolits because most of the time I use fairly soft lead around 10-11BHN. I guess somewhere somehow this combination works because I dont get any leading at all.
    Here are my 9s
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Close up of my 45s
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    Last edited by marek313; 01-11-2018 at 03:08 PM.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by BHuij View Post
    ACWW isn't an acronym I'm familiar with, but I'm using ingots made from both clip on and stick on WWs.

    BE is another acronym I'm not familiar with. I have heard the TL design may be part of the problem, which is why I started this thread about getting a new mold. Ironically this thread has given me more ideas of things to try to fix the leading than the thread I posted a few days back asking for help troubleshooting my leading... haha.

    Will go back to W231. It's more accurate in my gun anyway. I've been kinda disappointed with Bullseye overall, just doesn't seem like a good fit for me or my M&P.
    ACWW = "Air Cooled Wheel Weights"

    BE = Alliant "BullsEye" smokeless powder.

    At least that is how "I" read it.
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  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinMN View Post
    ACWW = "Air Cooled Wheel Weights"

    BE = Alliant "BullsEye" smokeless powder.

    At least that is how "I" read it.
    You're right. Haha thanks for the clarification.


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    Currently in the process of developing the "perfect" cast .223 load for my AR-15. Click here to follow my progress

  5. #25
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    Glad to have been able to help.
    2nd Amend./U.S. Const. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."

    ~~ WWG1WGA ~~

    Restore the Republic!!!

    For the Fudds > "Those who appease a tiger, do so in the hope that the tiger will eat them last." -Winston Churchill.

    President Reagan tells it like it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6MwPgPK7WQ

    Phil Robertson explains the Wall: https://youtu.be/f9d1Wof7S4o

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy dimaprok's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marek313 View Post
    I can tell you 4.0-4.2gr of W231/HP38 under PCed Lee 356-125-2R works fine ...... I use fairly soft lead around 10-11BHN. I guess somewhere somehow this combination works because I dont get any leading at all.
    Did you actually tested BHN or are you estimating?

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  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy dimaprok's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BHuij View Post
    Good info. I've found so much conflicting information about what ranges of BHN you actually get from WW alloy. I realize it varies, but while you're saying you can get 23BHN with water quenching, I have other people who have sworn to me that WW alloy, quenched or not, will never be harder than about 15 BHN. Then there's the fact that BHN fluctuates a bit over the first few weeks after casting before it really "stabilizes" and holds still. I'm thinking for me, it's probably a good idea to just buy a hardness tester so I can stop guessing about this particular variable and just know for sure.

    1) PC not fully cured. Will test as soon as I make any new boolits to PC.
    2) Still undersized. Will slug barrel again.
    3) ??? (Try a new mold at this point)
    I hardened my WW up to 30 BHN, at this point some of the bullets will start melting. People who told you WW cannot be more than 16 I wonder if they even own tester. 26 can be done with ease. BHN does not fluctuates, it always increases; the most in the first 3 days, after that you can see small changes.

    I doubt very much you are under curing. If you are baking at 400F for 10-15 min, you'll be fine +/- 50 degrees. I tested from 200 to 450 degrees. My rifle bullets I bake 20 min @ 450 degrees and dump them in water immediately. I think at this temp. PC "overdries" and sometimes spots chip off but i don't get leading as far as I can tell. I need borescope camera to really examine it

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check