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Thread: sand casting

  1. #1
    Boolit Man
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    sand casting

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    I believe this is way diverend than what is usual to use for ingot casting.
    But for me this works very good, especial cous i can not weld, i am a Carpenter by trade.
    It gives me a lot of freedom to make "what ever" ingot needed, to size my casting pot or storage.
    I do it for years without thinking, cous i cast also other metals, copper aluminium, yes even glass and iron.
    My storage contains a LOT of different alloys, name it..... i got it, i like to experiment with my 38spl.
    As said earlier, i find enough metals on the construction to trade with my scrap heap dealer.
    Yes we are all: lead junkies...i am no exception....we know it is poisoning us, its no good to us, but us love it(gollum, gollum, gollum), my precious.

    I have made some pictures (with my ball and chain......) and i would like to show you how its done, this sand casting.
    Especial to prevent a accident, we are playing with water, after all.

    First: Get some play sand, and remember what your mother was telling you about: dont play in the mud, i can't be the only one with a mother like that......
    Get some tray of 4 inch high by 25 inch by 20 inch, what ever.....BUT FOUR inch high
    Make the sand m o i s t not wet....
    2 inch at the bottom!!!!!it is hot stuff, that molten poisen!
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  2. #2
    Boolit Man
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    That darn thing did not do what i like, guns good...computers bad.....

    First picture was sand from the last time i used it, second i added some water
    On number three picture there was not enough water added, so it crumbled
    On picture four was perfect.
    It was casteble without falling apart, it takes some practice to get the good amount off water into it.
    For your self, mix in some dry sand, and see how far you can go before it crumbles again, mix it up with water again.....now you have the feeling.

  3. #3
    Boolit Man
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    Now that you have your sand in order, make your bottom flat and tighten it by stamping, dont take a 20 pound hammer, just your hands, with a other "positive" mold.
    Tap it hard, you need a hard "bed" to pour the alloy on
    Remember to have 2 inch sand at this point, if you are casting tin to iron....2 inch.....Click image for larger version. 

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    Place your "positive" molds on to the sand, and put sand every where, and tap it firm
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  4. #4
    Boolit Man
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    After that, make every thing flat and level, and pound it round the molds good.
    Molten alloy has a lot of hydraulic pressure, so dont put them to close to getter or it will breakClick image for larger version. 

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    Dont forget your small ingot, for the bhn test, remember this is air cooled, if you put water over it you got wq ~bhn!

  5. #5
    Boolit Man
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    We all now the drill......
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  6. #6
    Boolit Man
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    Yes i have gloves.......
    and now...
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  7. #7
    Boolit Man
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    resultClick image for larger version. 

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    You dont have to break the sand after your ingot was harden, like a metal foundry.
    Metal foundry's use way hotter temps and differend sand, also they have a differend technique and sand.
    If you would like to go with that, it would go to far to put it here on this forum, and it is something way different.

  8. #8
    Boolit Man
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    Some of mine different ingots.
    Al those resemble a different type of alloy, but all are clean.

    Those small pills, i melted down a 50 pound bar of pure pewter (99,7%) into 0,2 pound ingots.
    Every metal, from pure lead to antimony, range, ww, 50/50, pewter ect ect has a different size.

    My "bricks" (in my hand) ranges from 10 bhn to 20 bhn range, air cooled.
    Those bricks got a number written on with permanent marker of what the bhn test was on the small ingot.(after 5-7 days)
    Ready to use, or ready for futher alloying

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    The jackets and the dross will be an other chapter, this must be done outside, with a real foundry

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    Always wanted to take a metal casting class way back when I was going to college. Unfortunately, it was offered at a time that was not compatible with my work shift.

  10. #10
    Boolit Man
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    Use a fine saw to cut your wood or sand it, smooth for a better release out of the sand.
    For release, wiggel them a little bit before pulling them out of the sand.
    Better, wiggel them out of the sand instead of pulling.
    It takes no longer then five minutes to get your ingots out, wet the sand and start casting again.
    Carefull they are still HOT and maybe even soft!!!

    If you want a finer print and more "pro" sand(cheap), go to a construction site and ask the brick layer if you can have/collect his saw dust.
    It is wet stuff, but it will dry quick, pro foundries use similar.

    This is casted with normal play sand, can anybody tell me witch one is range lead and witch one is mono type.
    With the type o is......the correct spelling is......
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    I hope i was not boring or to long in my first mayor post, just to give my 2 cents here a good place and it will help some body hopefully.

    Best regards Parker Hale 1200 308

  11. #11
    Boolit Master


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    great write up

    learned a lot
    NRA Life
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    RVN War Games, 2nd Place

  12. #12
    Boolit Mold SpadeAce's Avatar
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    Very neat! Thanks for sharing!
    I'd like someday to deploy such fun for scratch building stuff. Why do I want to tinker so dang much in my old age!? lol

    I'm 46 lol

  13. #13
    Boolit Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    Back in the old days if I had lead left in the pot when I was done casting I would just take a pine branch about 1" and make a couple of holes in a pile of sand. Pour the lead, let cool, rake em out.

    It worked, but eventually a Saeco ingot mold joined my tools and it works quite well.

    Sand casting is an easy way to get an odd shape if you are willing to spend the time shaping it to what is needed. Sky and your imagination are pretty much the limit.

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
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