Attachment 212374Attachment 212375
Click to enlarge.
Here are 3 different types with one or two variations. Viewed from the top you might not think the hole spacing to be the same, but turned over and with the holes aligned it is apparent that they are.
I would like to put to rest the question of rear sight hole spacing. From 1892 to 1902, they are the same
Fact: Some people are alive simply because it's illegal to kill them.
Hello uscra112 I would love to make a set trigger like the one you showed.Any chance you could show a pic from the other side if it`s different? Thanks ,Paul.
I've got a bunch of 30-40 blank brass. Can that brass be reloaded to shoot real bullets or boolits???
I have 30-40 Krag that was sporterized by Mel Johnson. In great shape. He was the inventor of the Johnson Rifle and started the Johnson Automatics Comany. Johnson also had his custom shop located in Hope Valley, Rhode Island where he made custom conversions of surplus bolt action rifles into 'state of the art' hunting rifles. The barrel, a 30-40 Krag, is stamped with Johnson Automatics. Had communications with his son a few years ago. He verified it was one of the rifles done by Johnson in his shop. Need to dig it out of the safe to get some pictures. Shot it a few times and it became a Safe Queen.
I'd guess yes. I have a bunch of .30-06 blanks, cut one lengthwise and it was just as heavy as the standard GI stuff. This made sense to me because it would be simpler to use the same line to make both. You might wish to do the same to one piece of your brass and see how they measure up. I'd also want to make sure they are not balloon head.
Years ago I had a Johnsons Automatics BB gun, looked like a submachine gun, was very well made of some kind of bakelite type plastic, and used a spring type of catapult system to propel the BB. I've never seen another one .
Although not as good as double set triggers, drilling and tapping the sear for a setscrew can improve trigger pull immensely. I thought the sear would be hardened, but it drilled and tapped easily. Once you get the slack out, the trigger will be loose and able to flop forward freely. To remedy that, I inletted a light spring and plunger to keep the trigger to the rear. The trigger guard holds the spring in.
Nice engineering, Quack. Must take a little tinkering to get the two opposing forces balanced, but I can see where you could get very good results.
Not much tinkering at all. The spring was the thinnest wire I could find and I even stretched it out a little to weaken it even more. All it does is keep a very light pressure on the front of the trigger to keep it from flopping forward.
There are two threads for the vast majority or apertures. They aren't close to each other either. 10 x 32 is for Marble (I think) and 7/32 x 40 is most everything else. Taps for the 7/32 aren't that hard to find, but I sure would like to find a die for it. Need one.
Cat
Cogito, ergo armatum sum.
(I think, therefore I'm armed.)
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |