After many years of using walnut polishing media because I liked shiny brass, I transitioned to citric acid cleaning only and follow this regimen:
1. First, deprime all cases by hand, pistol and rifle, with the deprimer stem from a set of Lee dies and a brass hammer. It is at this point that all brass gets inspected. If military crimp has to be removed, I use the RCBS system. Then I use citric acid with a dash of Dawn dish detergent in an old crock pot that really gets the job done. Haven't used my RCBS vibratory tumbler in ages. Fill the crock pot about 2/3rds full of water, add a good tablespoon full of citric acid, turn the crock pot on high heat and add the brass and let it cook for a couple of hours, stirring occasionally. This method virtually eliminates by softening the carbon deposits left in all primer pockets so that when stirring and rinsing any debris falls out of the primer pockets. Do not have to fool with cleaning primer pockets.
2. After drying and sorting, all handgun brass gets loaded either on a Dillon XL 650 (.380, 9mm,
.38 Spl., .357 Mag., .41 Mag, .45 Colt) or an old Hornady/Pacific Projector (reserved for .45 ACP). Do not care for the Hornady/Pacific Pro-Jector priming system so I use an ancient Lee hand priming device (with the round primer retainer) for the .45 ACP and all rifle brass. I load all rifle ammo (.223, 5.56x45, .243, & .30-06) on an old Lyman Spar-T turret press.
3. Trimming is reserved for serious shooting and employs a Forster device, a mini lathe. That includes primarily .41 Mag., .45 Colt and the rifle rounds. I have a large amount of .41 Mag. R-P once-fired brass that I purchased several years ago from a police dept. and several hundred pieces of new Star-Line .45 Colt brass. I was surprised to find that the brass from both the R-P and Star-Line varied in length and that the case mouths were not square with the case body. Could have just been the specific lots I suppose. Sometimes I use the Lee trimming device in a variable speed drill (DeWalt) for large lots of 5.56x45 and .223. After trimming, I use an RCBS de-burring device.
4. Since I am into shooting lead alloy boolits that I cast not only in all the handguns but in the rifles as well, in order to expand the case mouths and necks I had a machinist make appropriately sized neck expanders for .357, .41, .45, 224, .244, & .310 that fit in the Lee Universal neck mouth expander. The Lee neck mouth expander itself is still around somewhere but useless. I only use the die body like a Lyman M die but have only one die body and several expanders instead of several separate die-bodies with expander units. Very handy when you want precision.
5. All boolits are sized and lubed with a couple of Star lube-sizers that I have. My lube is my own concoction of FWFL that seems to work very well for both handgun and rifle ammo. I aim for highest velocity only with the .45 Colt, which is a custom 5-shooter built by Hamilton Bowen. I cast a 340 gr. WLN (Wide Long Nose) gas checked boolit from a mould by LBT (Veral Smith) that rolls along at 1400 fps over a generous load of H110.
6. Several years ago a friend and I purchased large lots of W820, W680 and W844. Old W231, newer TiteGroup, old Hercules 2400, W820 and H110 works well in the handguns according to caliber and powder relative speed required. The W820, W680 and W844 are used in the rifle rounds, depending on caliber.
BTW, Tazman1602: I am totally green with envy!