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Thread: 9mm: Help me troubleshooting my leading problem? (and recommend me a solvent?)

  1. #21
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    your 5050 clip on stick on alloy is NOT to hard. If anything its to soft. Switch to just plain clip on ww and ditch the tumble lube and get a lubesizer and use a quality lube or do some research on PC coating if you don't want to buy a lubesizer. If you just want to get rid of the light leading about every 50 rounds or so shoot a couple jacketed bullets through the gun. Unless you have bad build up of lead that will take care of it. Ive got 3 glock 9s and two smith m&p 9s and a ruger and all shoot bullets sized to .357 with no leading. Been loading cast 9s for many years and have shot 100s of thousands of them through about every brand of 9mm handgun and even in rifles. Only keyholeing ive ever seen was a few guns did it with heavy 147s unless pushed hard enough to get enough spin to stabilize because of twist rates. Ive shot 100-120s at every level from pop gun loads to screamers and never seen any keyholing. My guess is your soft bullet is stripping through the rifling and that's why it gets worse with faster powders that give the bullet that little extra umped into the chamber. that problem is accentuated by the fact that many handguns have shallow rifling. Glocks in particular. Harder is about allways better in a gun that is in spec. That old soft bullet to bump up theory came from back when colts and even smiths and rugers had guns that chambers and bores had specs all over the place and even misalignments between them. think of it this way. A jacketed bullet is harder then ANY lead bullet and does your gun shoot them well? Bottom line is when you intentionally cast a bullet to bump up what your doing is causing it to deform to fit your gun and its not going to deform the same way every time and is for sure changing to bullets shape to something other then the designer of that mold intended. If a gun needs a bullet to bump up to shoot half way decent id send it down the road and get a different gun.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Shoot the largest bullet that will chamber without difficulty; that may be a .359" and don't worry about bore dimensions. I've had very good results using Winchester brass as it doesn't size down oversize bullets. However, my brass is old. Hopefully, newer Winchester brass also has case walls thin enough to accommodate fat bullets. Wheelweight alloy should work fine, if not use something harder like a Lyman #2. Taper crimp very lightly, enough to prevent bullet movement under recoil and no more.

    I've had best results with 9mm using heavy .38 Special bullets such as the 150 grain roundnose as cast from Lyman's obsolete #358212 mould; better accuracy and shoots to point of aim.

    Leading... the Chore Boy trick requires no solvent to work effectively, but a brass brush and any solvent should also work, just not as fast. I don't know anything about powder coating and probably won't until the conventional sizing and lubricating method fails, but if powder coating works well for you, go no further.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master rsrocket1's Avatar
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    This is what an undersized powder coated bullet does to a barrel after 250 rounds. Looks like gas cutting of the polymer that deposits soot in the grooves, the lands still grab the bullet and stabilize it. Maybe it's just soot because it's pretty easy to clean up.



    One pass with a wadded up paper towel cleaned it right up. I used a wad dampened with CLP, then another to dry it up, but Hoppes No9, Rem Oil or just about any other cleaner will work.



    When I shot TL bullets, I got more leading, but this cleaned it up in 45 seconds. Do it outdoors because you will pull the bore mop out and a bunch of "glitter" (lead dust) will come out with it. Start with an already tight fitting bore mop so that you need some firm action to "get the lead out" and it will come out with very few scrubs.


  4. #24
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    biggest advantage to me using Pc bullets is the lack of filth that you get from bullet lube or alox. Leading isn't a problem with any of them.
    Quote Originally Posted by lotech View Post
    Shoot the largest bullet that will chamber without difficulty; that may be a .359" and don't worry about bore dimensions. I've had very good results using Winchester brass as it doesn't size down oversize bullets. However, my brass is old. Hopefully, newer Winchester brass also has case walls thin enough to accommodate fat bullets. Wheelweight alloy should work fine, if not use something harder like a Lyman #2. Taper crimp very lightly, enough to prevent bullet movement under recoil and no more.

    I've had best results with 9mm using heavy .38 Special bullets such as the 150 grain roundnose as cast from Lyman's obsolete #358212 mould; better accuracy and shoots to point of aim.

    Leading... the Chore Boy trick requires no solvent to work effectively, but a brass brush and any solvent should also work, just not as fast. I don't know anything about powder coating and probably won't until the conventional sizing and lubricating method fails, but if powder coating works well for you, go no further.

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy Black Prince's Avatar
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    My Lee 124 Grain RN bullet mold drops bullets out at a diameter between .356 and .357 with most of them going .356. They lead the barrel that measures .3565. I had to Beagle the mold to get it to cast bullets at .359 to .360 diameter and then sized them to .358 and that solved the leading problem. I lube with standard 50/50 Alox/bee's wax lube. The QUICKEST and easiest way to get lead deposits out of your barrel is to mix a 50/50 solution of hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar , put a stopper in one end of your barrel, and pour the solution in the barrel. You will IMMEDIATELY see small foam bubbles begin to rise. Let it stand for two minutes and then VERY CAREFULLY pour the solution onto several folded paper towels to absorb it. DO NOT get on your hands or it will go through your skin and give you a dose of lead and that isn't good for you.
    Last edited by Black Prince; 01-11-2018 at 03:31 PM.
    The America I love was when the engine was a V-8, the exhausts were dual, the shift was four on the floor, the white walls were wide, the chrome was thick, the women were straight, and there was no such thing as the as the EPA.

  6. #26
    Boolit Bub
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    I shoot the same boolit, had leading too using bullseye. Switched to Unique and can now shoot all day with minimal lead in the bore, with easy clean up. I was thinking it has something to do with the pressure curve, but I am no powder or ballistics expert, I just know a powder change worked for me. I will use up the Bullseye in my .38 specials, it works great in them.

  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy Black Prince's Avatar
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    rhill

    I am not an ballistic expert, but like you, I ain't exactly dumb either. I also tried Unique and experienced the same result that you did, so I think you are on to something. Somebody here recommended Longshot powder to slow down the burn rate and I think I am going to try that too. If we hang around here at Cast Bullets very long, we'll find somebody who knows the answers to just about anything. Some of these guys really know their stuff. I also bought some of the aluminum pop can gas checks from here on Cast bullets from Ned Schmidt, but have not tried them yet because it's still deer hunting season here in the deep south and I'm hunting most of the time until the season ends at the end of January. Ned's gas checks are cheap and he ships them to you really quickly. He is a good guy to deal with.
    The America I love was when the engine was a V-8, the exhausts were dual, the shift was four on the floor, the white walls were wide, the chrome was thick, the women were straight, and there was no such thing as the as the EPA.

  8. #28
    Boolit Bub
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    To clean the lead out, buy a Lewis lead remover from brownells. The work very well.

  9. #29
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    tomme boy's Avatar
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    If bullseye is giving you leading, don't try tightgroup.

    But the powder is not the problem. It is the too soft of lead you are using.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check