Has anybody tried this? Saw it on a Pedrosoli you tube shot. The shooter put in a drop tube, then dropped the powder charge in. If I remember right, he was loading a Whitworth pattern rifle. Do you suppose there is any benefit to this! binski
Has anybody tried this? Saw it on a Pedrosoli you tube shot. The shooter put in a drop tube, then dropped the powder charge in. If I remember right, he was loading a Whitworth pattern rifle. Do you suppose there is any benefit to this! binski
Yes and now as it depends on your rifle and how you shoot it. If you look in the NMLRA website where they talk about the 1000 yard long range matches, just about everyone uses a tube of some sorts. They also generally wipe 1 wet, 2 dry after a shot and since my home range only goes to 300 yards I tried all of those combinations and in my case.....no difference. My mentor, Doug said to use a tube so I do and I have to be very careful and look down it as I have several instances where the tube got plugged and the gun only goes pffffft!
John
I saw the benchrest guys, the slug gun guys , do that.
I never was good enough to need it.
Where do you get these tubes? Are they homemade?
Yes, mine is 1/4" ID aluminum tube. I just use an MTM funnel that I fitted to it. Some LR shooters just use a short one to drop the charge. Lee Shaver believes that dirt build up on the tube can cause muzzle wear ruining accuracy. I use a long one because I use the Rigby method of cleaning and it gets the powder past the fouling in the barrel.
With Rigby cleaning you drop the charge insert a wad and then clean to the wad. This keeps from pushing fouling into the patent breech which can cause a misfire.
Bob
GUNFIRE! The sound of Freedom!
Bob I got a brass one when I bought my Gibbs.
Fly
I also have seen this used in a muzzleloader. Always contemplated building and using one but till i mount glass on a very good rifle i see no point as my guns all shoot better then i am capable of already. When i get glass mounted on a muzzleloader i for sure will build and try a drop tube. I see the advantage and believe a weighed charge to get compromised by dumping it either down a fouled bore where the charge has to pick up some of the fouling or a slightly wet bore from swabbing where the slight moisture has to affect the charge.
I see benefit to drop tubing past any fouling and then running a lube wad or disc followed by a vegi wad of .060 + to enable swabbing the bore as explained above and lastly load the projectile.
Sounds like a fun way to slow down even more for a relaxing fun range session. ]
I had the aluminum tube from another project and figured it would be as good as the brass or maybe better because it is softer and of course not near as heavy.
Ted, the lube wad isn't really necessary since you are cleaning after every shot anyway. I went to the Rigby method of cleaning because it is faster. Most matches only give you about 3 minutes per shot and that is a lot of up & down and cleaning and doesn't leave much time to break a shot or wait out the wind. I have used both cork and felt wads and can't tell any difference. I have several friends that say the wad isn't important but my Gibbs doesn't shoot worth a hoot without it.
Bob
GUNFIRE! The sound of Freedom!
I kinda figure when you drop the charge down the barrel, it has already gone down a drop tube. Drop tubes are only useful for loading cartridges to gain maximum capacity in a given space.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
To a certain point that is true, especially if you clean before loading. Most LR shooters use a long tube though, which includes most of the top notch competitors. The tube has the advantage of getting the powder where it is supposed to be without contamination or sticking to the side walls. At 1000+yd any variation can make a big difference in point of impact.
To your point though Lee Shaver and Dave Munch, 2 long time members of the US Team use short tubes. Dave Gullo, Ray Hopkins and most of the other members of the team use long tubes. Personally I was taught with a long tube and my philosophy is if it works don't fix it. For all practical purposes it isn't a hassle to use. Kind of comes under that, "more than one way to skin a cat thing".
Bob
GUNFIRE! The sound of Freedom!
I use a brass drop tube I bought from Peter Dyson and Son , England. I use it when shooting my Parker Hale .451 Volunteer and it works a treat. Ideal when loading long range muzzle loading rifles. Mine is a first generation Rigby rifled two band rifle.
Cheers
Heelerau
Keep yor hoss well shod an' yo powda dry !
For paper patched projectiles it is pretty much standard. For cloth patched RB I found no difference hence unnecessary.
When loading my .565 Whitworth Match rifle I load then wipe.Working to Joseph Whitworth specs using a Hollow base Hollow Nose wooden Plug Bullet.With this method I find that the Breach is clear of damp residue.For this Rifle a Drop Tube would have little use since the powder is dropped into a dry albeit fouled barrel prior to loading the Bullet then wiping.
Since the Bullet is Hollow based the rifle cannot be wiped on top of a wad.The bullet is straight on the powder charge.
Side pour Mould for large calibre Whitworth match Rifle.It is a modified for length Lyman Mould with side pour to cast both Base and Nose cavities.After fitting the Nose Plug and trimming off the side Sprue the Bullets are swaged to size.A lot of trouble to cast some Ammo but they Hit nose on at 500 Yards and the Hollow Base expands to the Whitworth Hexagonal bore.
Last edited by Col4570; 01-09-2018 at 07:34 PM.
I am just now making my own drop tube and am wondering just how high above the expected powder charge should the end of the tube be?
Of course it would change a small bit depending on the chosen charge, but is there a consensus on tube length if going long?
Using it for a Pedersoli Gibbs.
Make your drop tube long enough to hit the bottom of the chamber + 2". When you drop the powder raise the drop tube to about what you would expect the powder charge to fill the chamber by pinching the drop tube with your fingers to hold it where you want it.Some compression is good and my method was with a range rod and jag with the spear knocked filed off and polished .I placed my wad stack with a firm push to seat the wad stack on top of the powder,then raise the range rod about 4" and tamp the stack three times then seat your bullet. It is necessary to come up with a method that is consistently the same as you can be,more consistent better accuracy. I learned this from the Gibbs rifle shooters at Camp Atterbury 15 yrs ago, it makes a difference.
Depending on bullet the need for a some kind of lube cookie may be needed, I used lubed wool felt wads lubed with my bullet lube with both P.P and greasers.The lube wad is sandwhiched between 2 Walters .30" Fiber wads. It is a very effective wad stack on warm dry days.Your Gibbs rifle is capable of superb accuracy with time and consideration.Also to note the use of a platinum lined nipple is the single best accuracy enhancement on the Ped. Gibbs rifle.
BACO has verything you need and the only source for the platinum lined nipples.
https://www.buffaloarms.com/powder-h...43-long-usa338
Last edited by Randy Bohannon; 01-21-2019 at 04:04 AM.
Makes sense.
Here is mine:
9/32”, 36” long brass tube from Ace - $6.00
Plastic funnel from a Harbor Freight 4pk - $1.19
I annealed and flared the end of the tube to fit the funnel from the inside and glue gunned it in place.
When I flared the tube, it made a nice sharp edge so I don’t think I will get any powder granules hung up on it.
I figured the plastic outer funnel will be gentle on the muzzle.
Next will be to slide a .440” or so wood disc on about 3/4 of the way down to keep it centered in the bore. Don’t know if that will make a difference but it seems like a nice touch.
Then trim the tube to length.
Any thoughts?
Is the plastic good or bad? I do use a similar design for dropping in cartridges and it seems to work good enough.
That should work just fine, I don't think the plastic is a problem.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |