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Thread: Sporterized 98 Mauser (1940 Action) Issues

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Sporterized 98 Mauser (1940 Action) Issues

    Greetings all:

    The Mauser 98 custom you see in the pictures is a project I have been planning for years. I built up the money, found the perfect action, finalized what I wanted, picked a caliber, etc. Last spring I dropped off the military barreled action to a gunsmith I had used several times. He did good work on the small jobs I gave him. He has a record of custom builds on both Mauser and Rem 700 actions. His bluing work is amazing and everything pointed to the perfect situation.
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    However, after more money than an off the rack rifle, and trusting my irreplaceable 1940 date Mauser action to the gunsmith, I am left with a nice wall piece but nothing close to a trustworthy or even usable rifle.
    In terms of looks and set up the rifle is generally above the charts, Douglas barrel in .25-06, open express sights, customized Boyd's Double X Claro Walnut stock and Timney trigger.
    Upon inspection at home, breaking it down and looking at the parts and attempting to work the trigger and dry fire, what I was left with is a true dud.

    The issues are as follows:

    1.) The Weaver low mounts were clearly not the right ones for the job (his selection not mine). He simply cut the rear mount to fit so the bolt could be worked when the scope is off but putting a scope on reveals that the base of the rings spills over the cut and stops the bolt from being worked. So the only solution is to use the rifle without scope or replace the mounts (more drilling and tapping already drilled steel)
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    2.) For some reason he placed two small washers between the trigger structures and the action base
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    3.) The thumb safety does not fully click on or off when seated in the wood. I suspect due to the two washers. It fully works when out of the wood. I prefer the original safety's or low rear safety's on Mauser due to their strength and the ability to open the bolt safely and remove rounds without any cocking piece slippage.
    4.) Rather than replace the bolt shroud he simply cut of the safety smoothed it out and then blued over it. Luckily I have a backup bolt shroud, firing pin, safety, spring assembly
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    5.) If the rifle is fired the bolt jams so tightly that it cannot be opened without removing the stock. Again I suspect the small washers but I am guessing it might also be a variety of shortcuts that were taken.

    My question is whether or not this project is worth salvaging? I have a lot of hard earned money invested in the project (10 years of scratching and saving). The rifle was built to replicate a classic sporter for a future pronghorn hunt out West. I picked .25-06 for use not only on pronghorn but woodchucks, deer, coyotes, etc. as well. Essentially a one-stop rifle. I do not trust it and will not fire it in its current condition. The oil is still in the barrel. I haven't even bothered to clear that out. Essentially it has been placed away in a spare room for the last few months until I had time to take pictures and post on here.

    I am located in West Virginia but travel back and forth to Pennsylvania regularly (I'm a Pittsburgh area native). I am looking for someone in either place who know's what they are doing to salvage this if they can. If not I guess I will sell it whole or for parts, take the hit in terms of money, and re-invest in an off the shelf.

    Please contact me for images. For some reason they will not upload either as embedded images or attachments

    Thanks in advance everyone,
    Eric
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Complete Rifle.jpg  

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    Have you talked to the person who did this, what did they say. Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Did they even do test firing?

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    EGreis,
    First off, Beautiful rifle!
    Second, from your descriptions there is nothing about your rifle that cannot be fixed fairly simply.
    The rear weaver mount belongs on a rifle that has the charging hump removed. The one you need has a cut out in front that goes over the charging hump and moves the ring forward to clear the bolt. Should be no drilling or tapping needed.
    The two small washers are there for shims to cause the safety lever to clear the bottom of the action. If I am not mistaken, the trigger is incorrect for your rifle. In the first pic, the trigger is near the middle of the trigger bow. The proper trigger will have the trigger placed very near the back of the bow.
    I believe you also have some inletting/clearance issues. Safety not working when in the stock but does when out of the stock is the first clue.
    The bolt sticking is more difficult to diagnose. Could be an aftermarket high power spring, lack of lube on the cocking cam, binding of the stock on the bolt handle, or a combination of these.
    The only answer for the bolt shroud is replacement. I personally like the Winchester style 3 position side swing safety. A bit pricey, but to me they are worth it.
    Have you given your 'smith the chance to rectify the issues? Try giving it a cooling off period and take it back to him and show him the issues and see if he is willing to make it right. Nothing to loose in doing that.
    If that fails, any competent 'smith should be able to fix it to your liking.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

    lefty o's Avatar
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    you can find a proper mount to fit, or get a gunsmith fit one that you can make work with the existing holes. trigger is a matter of adjusting or replacing. sticking could be a few things as mentioned above, but should be quite fixable.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master


    HangFireW8's Avatar
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    You blame way too much on two small washers. If the safety works out of the wood, then it is interfering with the wood. Relieve the stock where the interference is. You can use grease or ponds cold cream to find that spot.

    Military Mauser receivers are often partly or mostly sprung. They have bedded barrels so it doesn't matter in original wood. Every Timney or other aftermarket trigger I've installed required fitting. Filing, shims, etc. If it works well out of the stock, then it works.

    The most concerning problem is bolt lockup when fired. Hopefully it is just failure for the trigger to reset. Fix that first by relieving the stock.

    Most people can't stand the military safety. Since you have a safety eqiupped trigger, most owners request deletion. Did you make it clear you did not?
    I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
    My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
    The BHN Deformation Formula, and why I don't use it.
    How to find and fix sizing die eccentricity problems.
    Do you trust your casting thermometer?
    A few musings.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master


    HangFireW8's Avatar
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    One more thing. Any good gunsmith can take undrilled mounts and adapt them to your receiver holes. It is most likely an incorrect assumption that it will have to be redrilled.

    Heck one of my customers Mausers has a rear mount made by my gunsmith.
    I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
    My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
    The BHN Deformation Formula, and why I don't use it.
    How to find and fix sizing die eccentricity problems.
    Do you trust your casting thermometer?
    A few musings.

  7. #7
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    Texas by God's Avatar
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    Take it back and insist he fix it.
    If he won't put you at the front of the line and fix the issues then tell everyone and anyone he's a hack. You saved your money for your dream rifle and trusted him to build it for you. It looks like a nice gun, but it's not. Yet. The issues aren't difficult to rectify so he should be happy to do them.
    The bolt shroud is on you unless you requested something he didn't deliver.
    We're pulling for you!

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    Banned

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    All the good gunsmiths I know operate and test fire the rifles they built to insure everything is corrects. Sounds like this smith didn't do that.

    Too you don't have the original safty on it. You could cock the action, put that original safty on the safe position, take the action out of the stock, remove the trigger assembly, put the action back in the stock, and then release the safty and the firing pin will spring forward like it was fired. Then try opening the bolt. If it opens then the trigger is the problem. I think one of the posters here stated he believes the trigger is incorrect for your action. That may be the problem too.

    With all the mistakes your gunsmith made I'm afraid to know what the headspace is on your rifle.

    Good luck and I hope you get it resolved with the gunsmith and don't give up on it.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I agree with everything that has been said. Simply, if things work (safety, opening bolt) with the barreled action out of the stock but don't work when placed in the stock, then it is the inletting. Most likely in the area around the trigger. Rear scope base is probably going to require someone modify a base to fit the holes. Did you tell your guy that you wanted to be able to use the stripper clip guide?? Bolt shroud is no big deal, easily purchased and replaced yourself, no reason to change springs or firing pin.

    Frustrating I know, but all is not lost.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Dan Cash's Avatar
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    I agree 100% with vzerone. Seek legal assistance and get your money back plus indemnity. Do not shoot that rifle undeer any circumstance. I do feel your pain as back in 1982, a stockmaker, so called, in Louisville, KY ruined a fine Manlicher for me. These frauds continue if we don't stop them.
    Last edited by Dan Cash; 01-03-2018 at 09:32 AM.
    To paraphrase Ronald Reagan, the trouble with many shooting experts is not that they're ignorant; its just that they know so much that isn't so.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master


    swheeler's Avatar
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    This is why I do my own work, then I know it's right! I have lots of Timney and Bold triggers on mausers and they do require extra inletting on the stocks, but all function flawlessly. If leaving the charger hump on some mausers the rear base may need just the corner filed a tiny bit to clear the bolt handle stub, but this rifle should have been tested for function and test fired before you got it back. I think it is the wrong trigger for that model mauser?
    Charter Member #148

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
    kens's Avatar
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    From the work I see in the pics, I would not trust he headspaced it correctly.
    Have it checked !!!

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    This is the exact reason I started Learning to do my own work.
    Not that I could actually do it better than a Professional Gunsmith.
    But more to know the issues that may come up in a Non Standard rifle.
    Everyone , no matter how many years of experience can make a mistake.
    But the good ones are the ones who can trouble shoot the problems, and figure out how to fix them.
    That is the difference between a " Gunsmith " and a Gun Mechanic

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check