MidSouth Shooters SupplyReloading EverythingTitan ReloadingLoad Data
Inline FabricationRepackboxRotoMetals2Wideners
Lee Precision Snyders Jerky
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 28

Thread: Hardness 'required' for 40S&W

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    37

    Hardness 'required' for 40S&W

    I'm curious as the the 'required' hardness of alloy for 40S&W and similar high pressure loads and what the potential downside/effects are of using too soft an alloy. Will a soft bullet 'strip' going through the rifling and tumble once it leaves the barrel having not been spun up assuming 1:16 standard twist? What are the problems one might encounter with a soft alloy assuming good projectile fit to the barrel?

    I ask because I cast with what I have access to - pure lead with pewter added to ~2% to aid fill out. Using the Lyman 175gr mold #401638 (powder coated) I have had no problems with powders in the AP50,WST,N320 speed range and 170 PF. The projectile to barrel fit is spot on and I see no leading out my my AET barrel with final twist 1:24. When might one run into trouble using a soft alloy? I notice a range of opinions on this matter.

  2. #2
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Casa Grande, AZ
    Posts
    5,526
    You will certainly get a number of different opinions on hardness on this forum. Several things to consider from the get go and those are proper fit and lubrication. I always run bullets larger than the bore size. I never run over 1000fps in 45acp. In 45 acp I can run hardness right at straight lead per my hardness tester.

    In 9mm in the past I have run them extremely fast and this resulted in some leading. I backed the speed down to 1000fps and no more leading. In my 40 I used some commercially made bullets and leaded the snot out of the barrel which took and hour to clean. I went back to plated for the 40.

    MY 45LC and my 44 mag.... no leading problems and again I stay around 1100-1200 fps with 11 for hardness.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    marlin39a's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Paulden, Arizona
    Posts
    1,426
    I use plain base gas checks on my Lee 401-175-TC bullets when I run them through my lube sizer. Eliminates any lead.

  4. #4
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Casa Grande, AZ
    Posts
    5,526
    Quote Originally Posted by marlin39a View Post
    I use plain base gas checks on my Lee 401-175-TC bullets when I run them through my lube sizer. Eliminates any lead.
    Very good advice.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master GhostHawk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Fargo ND
    Posts
    7,101
    Lots of variables. If you are pushing for speed plated or jacketed may be the better choice.

    Lube does make a difference, as does the powder and the load.

    Fit is king, get that right first.

    My only .40sw is a Hipoint Carbine and I started out with moderate loads. They came back very sooty so I went up half a grain. That left me with mid level loads, clean brass, no leading.

    But every journey is unique.

  6. #6
    Moderator Emeritus


    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Land of 10,000 Lakes
    Posts
    15,876
    There is no "real" answer to your question as to what is required.
    Casters are a crafty bunch, You may be able to get your soft alloy to shoot successfully in your 40...I suspect others have.
    With that said, The group at LASC have put together a lot of respectable info on alloys.
    http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm
    In that link, about halfway down the page, you will see a chart that is titled "Approximate "Maximum" Chamber Pressure For Lead Alloys (PSI)" That may help you decide if you want to attempt using a soft alloy for 40S&W.

    My opinion:
    I use 94-3-3 for my 9mm, 40S&W, and other high pressure pistol loads. I've not had success with softer alloys in those situations.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

    dragon813gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Somewhere in SE PA
    Posts
    9,989
    I've used 96-3-1 and 96-2-2 in my 10mm. And they're full house loads. Bullet fit and lube are key just like w/ every other cartridge. I've found it no more difficult to load then 38 Special.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master chutesnreloads's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    516
    You may get away with a little softer with the powder coat.Only way to know for sure is to try them in YOUR gun

  9. #9
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    37
    Thanks for the replies. I expect the powder coating being very tough will help or largely eliminate leading issues (seems to be the case in my pistol).

    JonB, when you say you’ve not had success with softer alloys, what were the failures that arose?

  10. #10
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    37
    Oh, I should add that my alloy measures 10 BHN (lee hardness kit). Also, the SVI 40 barrels run a slightly undersized major bore diameter according to Brandon, I don’t have the exact number to hand but it does make shooting lead boolits a breeze as fit is never an issue with a 0.401” sized projectile.

  11. #11
    Moderator Emeritus


    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Land of 10,000 Lakes
    Posts
    15,876
    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisCbr View Post
    JonB, when you say you’ve not had success with softer alloys, what were the failures that arose?
    Lead fouling and keyholing, I assume it was caused by Skidding.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  12. #12
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe View Post
    Lead fouling and keyholing, I assume it was caused by Skidding.
    Right, so the alloy being deformed by the rifling and ‘free boring’ or skidding over the rifling rather than engraving to the rifling and spinning up correctly.

    I assume this is with a conventional lube of some sort.

    In theory a gain twist barrel will help with this however I don’t see leading in a conventional 1:16 barrel either however I have see keyholing when using fast powders. I suspect the projectile is skidding even though I don’t experience leading.

  13. #13
    Moderator Emeritus


    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Land of 10,000 Lakes
    Posts
    15,876
    Yes, I had TL boolit styles and used 45-45-10, as well as traditional Lube groove boolit styles with various wax based Lubes. I use a soap-grease lube now (SL-68B).

    I'm not a fan of PC. I've never PC'd a boolit, but I have been given samples...and I had failures with those.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  14. #14
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    37
    I guess it depends on the shooting you do. I shoot a lot of competition (IPSC) and the polymer type coatings made the sport possible for me (here jacketed/plated projectiles are expensive).

    I’ve had PC coatings fail too due to undersized projectiles and/or case swaged projectiles.

    One handy thing I do with PC is spray a bit of CRC teflon dry glide onto them before sizing. Makes them nice and slick

  15. #15
    Boolit Master

    dale2242's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    SW Oregon
    Posts
    2,472
    My generic Lyman #2 works for all my handguns....dale

  16. #16
    Banned








    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    munising Michigan
    Posts
    17,725
    your doing something wrong or don't have pure lead. Pure lead with 2 percent tin isn't going to run 10bhn. more like 7-8. In the last few years I feel blessed if my ww turns out 10bhn. In a semi auto gun I don't fool with alloys softer then air cooled ww unless I'm loading hp's and am looking for expansion. Softer then 10 and you can have feeding problems for he bullet hitting the feed ramp and you just don't get the accuracy out of the softer alloys that you do our of harder ones. Idealy I cast low velocity bullets at between 12-15bhn unless there going to be shot in competition. those start at 15 and go up to straight lineotype depending on the sweet spot for accuracy.
    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisCbr View Post
    Oh, I should add that my alloy measures 10 BHN (lee hardness kit). Also, the SVI 40 barrels run a slightly undersized major bore diameter according to Brandon, I don’t have the exact number to hand but it does make shooting lead boolits a breeze as fit is never an issue with a 0.401” sized projectile.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Pleasant Hope MO
    Posts
    2,234
    I have good results with 12 to 15 BHN bullets in 9 mm & .40 S&W and using Hi-Tek coating. I shot thousands of these last year in IDPA & USPSA matches with out any leading out of several different guns.
    Again fit is king .002" over bore diameter works great for me and make sure the reloading dies are not swagging the loaded bullets.

  18. #18
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Casa Grande, AZ
    Posts
    5,526
    I like the .002 over bore size

  19. #19
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Burns tn
    Posts
    55
    I use straight ww powdercoated, .401 in multiple guns both pistol and carbine no issues

  20. #20
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by Lloyd Smale View Post
    your doing something wrong or don't have pure lead. Pure lead with 2 percent tin isn't going to run 10bhn. more like 7-8. In the last few years I feel blessed if my ww turns out 10bhn. In a semi auto gun I don't fool with alloys softer then air cooled ww unless I'm loading hp's and am looking for expansion. Softer then 10 and you can have feeding problems for he bullet hitting the feed ramp and you just don't get the accuracy out of the softer alloys that you do our of harder ones. Idealy I cast low velocity bullets at between 12-15bhn unless there going to be shot in competition. those start at 15 and go up to straight lineotype depending on the sweet spot for accuracy.
    Yes I expect my ‘pure’ lead is not quite pure. The lee hardness kit is straight forward to use so I doubt thats it.

    I’m forever looking for ways to harden up the alloy but around here one can’t simply obtain wheel weights. I may have to go to an expensive foundry to obtain pb/sb alloy or similar for hardening purposes...

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check