Favorite case deburring tool?

[nagantguy]

As gas hand held case deburring tool what do you have what do you like to use? I'm mostly talking hand held types . I just have the old RCBS double ended one that came with my original partner press reloading kit I bought on Camp Lejune . Looks like I'll have two fully stocked reloading benches now so I'm looking to double down on a few common tools and will also be looking for a new scale, was never as confident in electronic as I am balance beam type

[dragon813gt]

I can't stand the handheld ones. They kill your hands after a while. I have a manually operated Lyman case care kit.



But the better investment was the Lyman case prep center. Any of the powered ones are better than doing it by hand.

[ioon44]

I still use the old RCBS double ended tools I have had from the 1970"s, as for scaled it hard to beat the RCBS 505 beam scale.

[Wayne Smith]

I got the Lyman tools and chuck them in an electric screwdriver - easiest I have used.

[44deerslayer]

I still use the foster hand tool iv bin looking at the hornady cordless tool for 50 bucks

[racepres]

Case deburring, depends...
If I do not wish to have a Sharp edge, nor a Chance of it..I use the Lee.
If the case has been heavily reformed, or is quite thick walled...I use the RCBS.
Both have been on my bench for over 20 years...Either has had about the exact same usage..

[TNsailorman]

I first full length/neck size my case. Then, I use a Lee adapter chucked up in a electric drill clamped to my bench. A Lee shell holder of the right size, and a Sinclair adapter to hold the champher tool. Takes about 2 to 3 seconds to put a case in the shell holder, another 2 to 4 second to champher the mouth / inside and another 2 to 3 seconds to remove the case. I can do 8 to 10 cases a minute without working up a sweat and still drink coffee while working. Been doing it this way for 20 years or so. Works for me, jim

[Isaac]

I'm using an old RCBS deburring tool that I've had since the early '70's and a Lyman D-5 scale purchased at the same time.

Issac

[country gent]

I used to get the "dull 1/4" shank hand grinder carbide and HSS burrs from work and used them to deburr inside of case mouth really worked good and with the finner teeth didn't grab as bad. I made a nice wood handle and glued them into it. Other wise its been the orange lyman on the 1" handle with tools on each end.

[nagantguy]

Looking at the Lyman both manual with handle or powered! As far as scales go the green 505 is what I've always had tried a Lyman and a Frankfort electronic scale and was less than pleased but at the old place there was always a draft and a ceiling fan, might try them again in my newer much more climate controlable environment

[Texas by God]

If I'm doing a bunch I use the electric Hornady. For just a few I use the LE Wilson (RCBS) hand held I 've had for decades. You can crown a cut off rifle/handgun barrel with it as well.
Best, Thomas.

[mdi]

https://www.mcmaster.com/#countersinks/=16s4rt0 For my ID chamfering/deburring. I also use a trick I saw somewhere (?) for smoothing the OD of my case mouths. I take a 3/8"-1/2", 1/4" drive nut driver and stuff coarse steel wool inside. I chuck the nut driver in my drill or power screwdriver (slow). Spin the socket in the drill, push the case into the steel wool in the socket, deburred/smoothed. (I'm a tool nut and confirmed tinkerer and a lifelong machinist/mechanic, so I like making things work without having to buy dedicated "reloading tools")...

[Iowa Fox]

Have a bunch I acquired over the years. Wilson & RCBS double end, Lyman hand held including the VLD. I use them all depending on what I'm doing but the one I use the most is the Lee. The more precision stuff them gets the K & M in the inside. Regardless they all get finished with a homemade case spinner stuffed with 0000 steel wool chucked into a drill. The case spinner is just a copper pipe cap soldered to a 1/4" rod. Rough necks will kill your accuracy quicker than anything and is usually the most overlooked step in reloading.

[nagantguy]

Iowa fox I agree totally; buggered or out of round or inconsistent case necks are a silent killer of accuracy! One of the reasons behind this post! If I had a cigar I'd give it to you! Same brass in same rifle, neck sized only if possible after initial trim deburring chamfer etc , not always in every case but any rifle I want real accuracy potential out of! Even in some of my rougher mosins it makes a difference, now all ppu brass is dedicated to two rifles and they get special treatment also helps in an older ruger 308 with a leer or throws that specs correct but is short and tight.

[Kevin Rohrer]

A Giraud. It trims, deburs and chamfers in one, quick step. I can perform all three operations for one case in 3-seconds.

[lightman]

I mostly use the RCBS tool made by Wilson that I've had for years. I also have a Sinclair carbide VLD tool thats nice but it only does the inside.

[Greg S]

After case trimming, I use a hand held chamfer device then on subsequent reloads alittle 4/0 steel wool. I'd like to take a 1/2" copper pipe cap, center drill the end and shove a worn out 22 cal bore brush through it and solder or fix it in place with some bedding compound and fill it with alittle wool and chuck it up in vs drill to smooth the leading end after tumbling. After 20-30 pieces , tear off another flake of wool abot the size of a cleaning patch and add it to the cup. It will periodically need to be cleaned out and a new bed so to speak made but for us anneal folks it beats hand chamfering each time.

[Iowa Fox]

Just one more thing- If your a serious reloader and you don't already have a 10x or 12x loupe to inspect your work, buy one. They're dirt cheap and will really open your eyes about your workmanship on case necks. Use in bright light or a flashlight. A good magnifying glass will do in a pinch.

[headstamp2]

You got it. I center drill a 3/4" copper cap and install a 5/16th diameter long shank bolt through it with a nut and lock washer and jam nut on that end to retain the cap. Then cut off the bolt head. Pack the cap with steel wool tightly. The nut head keeps it from spinning in place in the cup. Chuck it in a drill press on medium speed and inside/outside debur like blazes.

After case trimming, I use a hand held chamfer device then on subsequent reloads alittle 4/0 steel wool. I'd like to take a 1/2" copper pipe cap, center drill the end and shove a worn out 22 cal bore brush through it and solder or fix it in place with some bedding compound and fill it with alittle wool and chuck it up in vs drill to smooth the leading end after tumbling. After 20-30 pieces , tear off another flake of wool abot the size of a cleaning patch and add it to the cup. It will periodically need to be cleaned out and a new bed so to speak made but for us anneal folks it beats hand chamfering each time.

[farmerjim]

RCBS tool chucked in a Harbor Freight mini lathe. About 15 9mm per min.