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Thread: ar 15 uppers brands

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    ar 15 uppers brands

    there is so many companies making upper in 6.5 Grendel 458 socom and 50 Beowulf like hanover armory francis armament radical firearms Anderson to mention a few the companies that I know do not make these cal. like colt bushmaster stag arms armalite rock river what companies should I avoid the ones listed and others I going to use a quality lower stag arms bushmaster or rock river any information would be helpfull

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    I bet you're out of breath. Anderson's good.

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  3. #3
    Boolit Master lefty o's Avatar
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    my vote is stick to the more well known brands, not necessarily colt/bushmaster etc though. you really have to do your research with AR's as so many make them. some of the cheap stuff is borderline junk, and some of the cheap stuff is pretty good, yet some of the big name expensive stuff isnt all its cracked up to be either. like always, if 20 people respond, you are very likely to get at least 10 different answers. sorry my answer is most likely not very helpful.

  4. #4
    The three most important things are the trigger, barrel and bolt carrier group. I just build my first ar 15, I used Aero precision upper, lower, and hand guard. Rock river national match trigger and their A2 stock. The barrel is a Satern 5r in 6.5 grendel with a SA adjustable gas block. Still waiting for the magazines. A good place for information is https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    lefty said it all. It's best just too research feedback from people who have used them.

    I have a couple ARs that have relatively inexpensive uppers that I bought from PSA and I wouldn't hesitate recommending them for a second.

    My brother bought a 300 BO and a 5.56 upper. Both have full float barrels and full failed hand guards and both were less than $200 each and that was a couple years ago. Both have proven to be good quality.

    One thing in common all but one of our ARs have is Rock River NM 2 stage triggers. My VTR-15 has a Jewel trigger but to be honest for what I use it for a Rock River would have been fine.

    Motor

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    You might look into Aero Precision. I just finished my DMR upper and I like the new Gen2 features/profile. I purchased it from www.graniteridgeoutfitters.com , super guy to deal with.
    Got-R-Did.

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  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    The big bores have an enlarged ejection port. That's the only difference between them and a regular one. I've built five on Anderson uppers, and lowers, so far. I had an issue w/ one of them. The holes for the FA didn't line up correctly so I couldn't install it. No big deal, I installed a plug and called it done. I don't want to jam a round home if it doesn't freely chamber.

    People like to spend more money then they need to on uppers and lowers. There is a limited number of manufacturers. They roll mark it w/ the customers logo and call it done. I'm personally not a fan of paying more money just for the name.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master dkf's Avatar
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    If you want a complete upper (.458soc) the only one I can recommend is Tromix. I have many different brands of lower and upper receivers and they are not all the same. Some manufacturers do a much better job than others on fit, holding tolerences, hold tighter tolerances, better finish, etc.
    Last edited by dkf; 01-09-2018 at 02:20 PM.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    I bet you're out of breath.

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    You made me spit coffee all over my keyboard, lol.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    It is totally rediculous to think you have to purchase something like a Rock River or some other high priced over rated item. The andersons or virtually anything will shoot well with a decent hand load. I have personally sat down next to people with Rock Rivers and had them run their mouths about how much more accurate their gun was than mine was. When it came down to putting holes in paper mine was just as accurate and in several cases I shot a tighter group. So, you can pay for a name if you wish you can buy a cheaper brand (nothing plastic) or you can choose to put your own together. The results should be neck and neck. It doesn't take a genius to put an AR together and there is no trick to doing it because ALL barrels are machined so that the head space is spot on. Pick parts that AREN'T PLASTIC and pick a decent drop in trigger group and you should be fine.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkf View Post
    If you want a complete upper the only one I can recommend is Tromix. I have many different brands of lower and upper receivers and they are not all the same. Some manufacturers do a much better job than others on fit, holding tolerences, hold tighter tolerances, better finish, etc.
    Most of this is pure horse hockey. You buy MILL SPEC parts and the tollerances ARE the same. You MIGHT be able to get slightly better finish but the fit will be the same.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    It is totally rediculous to think you have to purchase something like a Rock River or some other high priced over rated item. The andersons or virtually anything will shoot well with a decent hand load. I have personally sat down next to people with Rock Rivers and had them run their mouths about how much more accurate their gun was than mine was. When it came down to putting holes in paper mine was just as accurate and in several cases I shot a tighter group. So, you can pay for a name if you wish you can buy a cheaper brand (nothing plastic) or you can choose to put your own together. The results should be neck and neck. It doesn't take a genius to put an AR together and there is no trick to doing it because ALL barrels are machined so that the head space is spot on. Pick parts that AREN'T PLASTIC and pick a decent drop in trigger group and you should be fine.
    I agree. Our Palmetto (FN) barreled home assembled AR 5.56 carbines shoot as well as any $$$$ brand that has been to our farm. Last week my little $100 barrel Anderson/CavArms .300 blackout out shot a brand new Ruger SR556 and a Springfield Armory Saint. A decent barrel and a good trigger goes a long way. Sure, a Wilson or Les Baer will out shoot my stuff but by golly they should. The Name Game is alive &well in AR land!
    Thomas

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  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    I still donít know what the op is asking.


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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Love Life View Post
    I still don’t know what the op is asking.


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    I think he's looking to build or buy an AR upper in the calibers mentioned in the OP and the typical places and brands he's familiar with don't make them. A newbie to building or buying uppers can go into analysis paralysis and I feel the OP was looking for a good brand and avoid brand list of sorts.

    I've had good luck with the Palmetto State Armory stuff especially with the barrels made by FN. I've built uppers using Aero Precision and PSA and lowers on PSA, Anderson and Aero as well without issue.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master






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    ive owned probably north of 20 ARs through the years. Lightweights, standard weights and heavy barrels. Some expensive some cheap. Best shooting AR ive owned was a 600 dollar dmps sportical. it had a pencil thin barrel on it so you had to shoot slow but if you took your time it would shoot 1/2 moa 5 shot groups at a 100 yards with 55 grain vmaxs or nos bts. Worse shootinging one I had was a colt I paid 1200 for that took a lot of load development to get a 2 inch group at a 100 yards and most were in the 3 plus range. My buddy talked me out of the dpms and I dumped the colt when the prices were high and made money so even that wasn't a total waste. Most accurate one I have right now is a colt lower with a model 1 stainless standard weight barrel. it wont shoot 1/2 moa but I'm disappointed when I get a group over an inch and about know its my fault if it doesn't shoot 3/4 moa.

    Every one talks that you have to spend big money to get a good reliable ar. Well like ive said I owned a bunch and the only one id call a pos was a Olympic arms gun bought when the company first started and anyone that knows ARs knows those weren't great guns. But even the olys ive shot of late were very reliable great shooters. I shoot my ARs ALOT! Never saw where a cheap one fell apart or broke. Spend your money the way you want but any ARs I buy anymore are cheap parts guns I put together myself. You can build an AR for under 400 bucks today that's as good as any of them were in the 80s and 90s. I chuckle at the guys I see come to the range with there taticool high dollar ars with flash lights lazors, night force scopes ect and when they shoot that gun that set them back over 3k and brag on it I just show them a target and tell them I could build 8 or 9 guns like mine for what they have in that gun. Just bought a complete Anderson lower with the stock for a 140 bucks. Picked up a complete rifle package from palemento arms for 300. everything but a bare lower. So ive got 440 bucks into it and with a 50 dollar bare lower can put together another complete lower and buy an upper for 250 bucks. So for 740 bucks I can have two complete ars. that's 370 bucks a piece including shipping. No brainer to me.
    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    It is totally rediculous to think you have to purchase something like a Rock River or some other high priced over rated item. The andersons or virtually anything will shoot well with a decent hand load. I have personally sat down next to people with Rock Rivers and had them run their mouths about how much more accurate their gun was than mine was. When it came down to putting holes in paper mine was just as accurate and in several cases I shot a tighter group. So, you can pay for a name if you wish you can buy a cheaper brand (nothing plastic) or you can choose to put your own together. The results should be neck and neck. It doesn't take a genius to put an AR together and there is no trick to doing it because ALL barrels are machined so that the head space is spot on. Pick parts that AREN'T PLASTIC and pick a decent drop in trigger group and you should be fine.
    Soldier of God, sixgun junky, Retired electrical lineman. My office was a 100 feet in the air, closer to God the better

  16. #16
    Boolit Master dkf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    Most of this is pure horse hockey. You buy MILL SPEC parts and the tollerances ARE the same. You MIGHT be able to get slightly better finish but the fit will be the same.
    Most manufacturers use most of the original dimensions and tolerances from the Colt prints but there is nothing keeping them from changing dimensions and tolerances as desired. Nobody to inspect them to insure they are to print except the manufacturer and end user. Go buy a Mega Arms receiver set and then go buy an Anderson set.(for an example) My Mega Arms receivers stay together without the pins being in, BE bore is tight and requires some heat, etc and it is repeatable with their receivers, that is just one thing of many differences.(something Mega is known for) Anderson on the other hand is known for putting out a decent amount of receivers which are out of even the rather loose milspec (some dimensions more than others) tolerance(and clearance) and those are the users whom actually notice they are. Many more never notice because they don't have the tooling, know how nor care to check. I measure and inspect all my parts before the rifle goes together, something the vast majority never do. Just because you can't see or figure out the differences doesn't mean there is none. Some people just prefer the better quality and are willing to pay for it. It doesn't mean less expensive receivers will not function and work on an acceptable level for the majority of users.
    Last edited by dkf; 01-09-2018 at 02:43 PM.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master Electric88's Avatar
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    I've got a 16" 50 Beowulf upper and a 10.5" 300blk upper that I run suppressed both from Radical Firearms and they both run flawlessly. On the time or two I've reached out to their customer service for information or questions/problems they were quite responsive and more than happy to help. Had an issue with the firing pin on the Beowulf where a burr on it was causing a little trouble when firing. They dropped a new one in the mail to me on their dollar, no fighting or squabbling. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from them again.

    Can't speak to some of the other ones OP references, but saw Radical Firearms mentioned and wanted to confirm they are good to go.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master


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    You don't necessarily get what you pay for, but you can bet on paying for what you get.
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  19. #19
    Boolit Master lefty o's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    Most of this is pure horse hockey. You buy MILL SPEC parts and the tollerances ARE the same. You MIGHT be able to get slightly better finish but the fit will be the same.
    i can guarantee not all the manufacturers hold good tolerances. as an example, i have built a large number of ar's on anderson lowers, they are mostly good, but i have myself run into 2 that the buffer retainer pin holes were not in the correct place, and sadly you can find more than a few instances of this if you look around. as for mil-spec, nothing being sold is mil-spec, much is advertised as meeting mil-spec but thats it, and mil-spec is just the gvmnt's lowest acceptable standard, nothing to be impressed by.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    I expect two things from an AR. Dependability and accuracy in that order. I don't care if it says Hillary Clinton on the receiver. I choose to build my own because that way I get the features I want. People can brag all they want on their high dollar builds,but I let my little rifles speak for themselves. The loosest upper to lower fit I have experienced was on a brand new FN A2 Factory rifle. If that gun wasn't mil-spec, I don't know what is.

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    Last edited by Texas by God; 01-09-2018 at 07:19 PM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check